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New starter turns over slowly then quicker........

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by GlenYappa, Mar 24, 2003.

  1. GlenYappa

    GlenYappa Registered Member

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    I was having the classic chevy hot starter seizing problem with my '72 Blazer. It has a 350 with long tube headers. After being stuck for over 30 minutes the other day I decided to replace the starter. Except when the starter got hot and stuck the engine would turn over easily and pretty much crank right up. I bought a new mini starter with lots of torque that pulls 80-90 amps. It bolted right up and I believe I wired it correctly. When you first turn the key it will BARELY start turning the engine over. Then it gets a little faster...then a little faster.....a little faster......finally cranking like a beast. Something is not right. Even though I don't think it is the battery since it was fine before I changed the starter, I gave it an all night charge. Same results but a little better. What did I screw up on my precious Blazer?

    I did search but didn't find anything quite matching my problem

    Thanks,

    Glen
     
  2. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

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    I would check the ground cable, make sure your getting a good ground. Sounds like your heating something up and when it get hot it makes a better contact..
     
  3. chevyracing

    chevyracing 1/2 ton status

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    .......... or your cables are too small or too resistive, Try making battery cable out of welding cable, it is designed for heavy amp load and is very flexable.
     
  4. '72brett

    '72brett 1/2 ton status

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    A friend of mine races... and after the first heat, we had the same problem. Hot start as it seemed. After letting it cool, it would crank slow, and then a little faster, sometimes it would start, but then he'd end up killing it again. We ran the battery down, and then had to jump the darn thing. It did work then, and when we got back to the shop, we checked all wires and found our ground cable has been spliced by the previous owner and he didn't do a very good job at that. We just grabbed an old set of cheap jumper cables that were no good, and used those cables to ground to the frame, as well as the firewall. All in all, it was a cheap and easy fix. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  5. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    make sure youre initial ignition timing is not set too advanced, try turning distributor housing clockwise a bit
     
  6. GlenYappa

    GlenYappa Registered Member

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    The engine started fine before I changed the starter and it runs fine now when it cranks. So I don't think it has to do with any engine tuning. I am going to make sure the starter gear isn't binding on the flexplate and if that isn't it I'm gonna look at the ground cable.

    Thanks for the replies,

    Glen
     
  7. '72brett

    '72brett 1/2 ton status

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    remember, it could be the positive leads too. I was just saying that when I had the EXACT same problem, it was with the ground cable.
     
  8. mastercraftkpk

    mastercraftkpk 1/2 ton status

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    Have had similar prob in past. It always turned out to be something simple like bad ground or loose cables at battery. /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  9. arq

    arq 1/2 ton status

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    try your timing and where is your vaccum advanced hoooked up to???

    ARQ.
     
  10. Stroked72Blazer

    Stroked72Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    There is not enough space between your starter bindex and the flywheel. Because of this they are binding and it is having to get the momentum going before it can get going faster. The solution is to get some starter shims. the new starter should have come with a guide of some sort so you can mesure this distance and have a chart to tell you what shims are needed where.
     
  11. '72brett

    '72brett 1/2 ton status

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    naw, it wouldnt be timing, or the vaccum advance... he said ir ran fine and still does, even with the old starter. so, the shims sounds like what it could be; if its not the wiring. you flex plate isn't bent is it?
     
  12. GlenYappa

    GlenYappa Registered Member

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    The flexplate isn't bent. I've watched it turn over. I think it is binding up. I'm going to try shimming and then look at cables if that doesn't work. The starter did come with shims but there was no way to engage the gear. The instructions said use a small screwdriver in the small hole on the gear. No hole and the gear is recessed when disengaged. The instructions also said I would need a 5mm allen wrench....nope a 3mm so I don't think the starter had updated instructions. Since I posted this question I haven't had a chance to get back to the Blazer. Hopefully I will get to it Friday night or Saturday morning.

    Thanks for the help.

    Glen
     
  13. Stroked72Blazer

    Stroked72Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    I might be making this one up but it seams like I remember ther being a way to Jump some terminals to get the bendix to kick out without spinning. Also try to see if the starter manufacturer has a web site. sometimes they have instruction updates there or at least contact info.
     
  14. '72brett

    '72brett 1/2 ton status

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    never heard about shorting 2 teminals before, if it works, that would certainly help. If you have the time, patients, and muscle endurance, just try out differernt combinations until you find which is best. I think it may be easier to test your wiring first. just bolt up some jumper wires and hook em up all over the place (frame, neg. terminal on bat, firewall) If it still lags, then try the positive wires (making sure connections to starter and battery are tight (also check butt connectors) after that test, than you will know it is the shims
     
  15. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    If I remember right, you hook a 6 volt battery up instead of your 12 volt one and use a remote starter switch to trip the starter. 6 volts is enough to cause the bendex to force the gear into the flywheel but not enough to turn the starter. Then use a thick paperclip to check the gear tooth to flywhell teeth clearance.
     
  16. GlenYappa

    GlenYappa Registered Member

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    Update: I tried shimming it first. That didn't make any difference. I checked the amps being pulled on the pos. cable when cranking and it wasn't near enough. The starter is supposed to pull 80-90 amps and it was only spiking to around 22 amps. I used a jumper cable to connect the neg. battery post to the cylinder head (same bolt the actual ground cable goes to) and it cranked much better. I went out and purchased new pos. and neg. 2 guage cables. After installing those it cranks decent except for the first cold crank. It still has a hard time starting to turn the engine but it definitely gets going faster than it was. I'll check the amps that are being pulled on the new cables tomorrow.

    Thanks for the help.

    Glen
     
  17. GlenYappa

    GlenYappa Registered Member

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    It was the battery. I guess the old battery had enough juice for the old starter but not the new one. I pulled a battery out of a '75 Camaro I had behind my shop and now it cranks like a beast.

    Thanks for all the suggestions.

    Glen
     

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