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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by hokie guy, Mar 23, 2004.

  1. hokie guy

    hokie guy Newbie

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    What year K5 (driveline) is the best to start off with for future lifting/wheeling and why?
     
  2. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Welcome.

    Best part about GM vehicles is the interchangeablility of parts.

    Here's what I'd consider a good starting point:
    '87-91 Blazer or Jimmy with a 350 TBI, 700R4, and NP208 or NP241

    Axles on this vehicle will be front and rear 10 bolts. These are standard on all K5's after about '77 (I think). Not the strongest axles out there, but that's your only choice. They're okay for moderate wheeling with 35" or smaller tires. When you start breaking stuff, you just go out and buy 3/4 ton or 1 ton axles from a GM vehicle between '73-87. If you do it right, you can get axles that are DIRECT bolt-in replacements for the axles you have.

    Oh, and do yourself a favor...buy something RUST FREE!

    Edit: And remember, the "best" vehicle is always in the eye of the beholder. I like having a fuel injected vehicle, but if you like the "bare-bones" carbed truck without all the computer stuff, look for something before '86.
     
  3. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

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    Hey Hokie guy, you got to Tech?
     
  4. 89fullsiz

    89fullsiz Registered Member

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    Sweet!! that is exactly what I just bought /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

    I got it for just a little over 3K!
     
  5. bablazer73

    bablazer73 1/2 ton status

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    For me, some of it would depend on weather you want a stick truck or an auto. If you don't mind a stick, You might look at something in the 70's as they used the 465/205 combo. the 205 is one of the strongest T-cases. the later trucks came with the 208. aluminum housed chain case. weaker overall. But it does have a lower gearing for wheeling. What kind of wheeling do you plan on doing??
     
  6. hokie guy

    hokie guy Newbie

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    Yes, I do go to VT.
    Im interested in wheeling and I would prefer a manual transmission, a 5 speed at that. I can deal with a carbureted engine, but EFI is better for a vehicle that is seeing dramatic tilt when wheeling and EFI also has smoother operation.

    These numbers like: 700R4, and NP208 or NP241. What do they mean? Im assuming they are either auto. trans. numbers or T-case numbers.

    Has anyone on these boards completed a late model 350 EFI swap into an older carb. k5? I dont even know why Im asking because Im sure lots of people on this board have. But could I get a referral from someone who has done the swap as to some parts list locations.

    Thanks

    Justin
     
  7. mr_fujisawa

    mr_fujisawa 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]

    These numbers like: 700R4, and NP208 or NP241. What do they mean? Im assuming they are either auto. trans. numbers or T-case numbers.


    [/ QUOTE ]

    the 700r4 is an automatic transmission, the np 208 stands for new process 208 and is the transfer case, np241, same thing.

    i got an '88 that is tbi and i love it. it might not have all the style of the older full convertables but it is nice to have the injection for the reasons you stated above. it should be fairly easy to set up. i have only had mine for about a year and have swapped out the front and rear axles, lifted 4" and put 35's on. it's truly an addicition.

    buy a membership and welcome to the addiciton /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
    sean
     
  8. bigcountryk5

    bigcountryk5 1/2 ton status

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    G-vegas(Greenville) South Carolina
    700r4=auto tranny whereas TH350 or TH400=manual tranny

    NP208/NP241=Transfer case (NP is New Process i believe /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif)

    Hope that helps i was asking the same questions a very shot while ago
     
  9. MTBLAZER89

    MTBLAZER89 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    700r4=auto tranny whereas TH350 or TH400=manual tranny



    [/ QUOTE ]

    The 700R4 is an auto tranny with overdrive. The TH350 and 400 are alsoo trannies with only 3 speeds D-2-1

    Manual trannies you will see mentioned are the SM465 (4 speed) and the NV4500 5 speed.

    All the NP's are New Process transfer cases
    NP203 Full time chain driven
    NP205 part time gear driven (strongest)
    NP208 part time chain driven aluminum case (good low range)
    NP241 same as a 208 except new better design with a slightly lower range.

    Think I got it all right welcome to CK5 /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
     
  10. duece21

    duece21 1/2 ton status

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    Do you work on your own rigs?. If so buy whatever you like then modify. If not look for a rig that has TBI (IMO), I love mine. Also, look for one that is already modified like Susp lift, axles, heads, cam etc. I lot of these rigs don't have a high resale value, even when there modified. (Before the wolves attack) /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif Don't get me wrong, there are alot of rigs that do get there money out of them. If you buy an 87 blazer for 3,000 and put 5,000 into it, theres not alot of people willing to spend 8,000 - 10,000 on an 87 blazer.
    Just my opinion though. I think everyone on here buys there rigs for the same reason I do. You love to play, and you love to work on your /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crewcab.gif /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif , if you didn't why else would you own one. You would own a toyota rav-4 or something like that. Good luck to ya, stick around, next thing you know you will have 14bolt, Dana 60, and crossover steering. /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
     

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