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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by playin_dirty, Sep 8, 2004.

  1. playin_dirty

    playin_dirty Registered Member

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    <font color="blue"> </font> I havent yet bought my K5, and Im not totally sure on the year that I want. Thats where your help comes in. /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif Im not sure if this question has been posted a million times or not, but I would really appreciate any input on what to get. I would like to go the route of getting a project truck, and doing all the work and modifications to it myself. The only problem is that I dont know what all to do to it. I am not (currently) planning on doing serious extreme offroading and in AZ there isnt much mud...but I still want a good set up so I can do a little of everything...like trails, occasional hills, river bottoms, desert romping, etc. I want to set it up for about 95% offroad, and 5% on road (the only time it will be on the road is to get to the trail...not a daily driver). So, I guess my questions to you are: Is it better to buya truck that already has had the work done to it or is it best to build it myself. If I do build it myself, what do I do to it? I have around $5000 to spend on the mods, and most of the work will be done by myself. /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grind.gif Thank you so much for any info that you can give me. Im sorry for the long post, but there is so much that can be done to the K5, I want to know what the best things are. Thanks again. /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif
     
  2. 84gmcjimmy

    84gmcjimmy 1 ton status

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    the best is to start from scratch and build up... you learn alot, then also can take pride in saying, "yeah, I built that truck" when you talk to other fourwheelers.
    if you buy one that has already been "built" up, you risk the chance of the preivius owner abusing it, causing alot of damage, and parts for you to buy in the future.
    I myself, like the 2nd gen's (73-91) but if you want full convertable 1st gen.'s are better (69-72). Is the 5k for everything? or after you buy the truck? I think thats plenty of money to start with /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif
    good luck
     
  3. MTBLAZER89

    MTBLAZER89 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    First off welcome to CK5 /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

    Buy your own and build it or buy one built each has plusses and minuses. Usually better deal to buy one built because they are never worth what we put into them, but you don't know how abused it was. Building it is fun and satisfying but can also make you want to rip your hair out sometimes. You will know what has been done to it though and what kind of work went into it.

    There are many different routes you can take at the step you are in. My first piece of advice is read read read here soak up a bunch of info. Everybody has their favorite years of K5's depending on what you are looking for.

    69-72 First gen rounded style full convertable bit harder to find some stuff for don't know much about these.
    73-75 Second gen full convertable
    76-91 Seconf gen half cab convertable
    Check the specs section here for differences in each year and drivetrain specs.

    It is up to you what you want to do with it whether you "need" 1 ton gear lockers big tires (35+") etc. A good start point is around 4" of lift and 33"-35" tires maybe one locker. This combo is fairly inexpensive easier on parts and will take you lots of places. Start getting bigger than 35's and you will prolly need too upgrade the axles at least the rear especially if they are locked this is where it starts to get expensive Bigger tires=more lift or cutting to an extent= driveline issues, shocks, steering correction which all equals more $$$. Be careful this stuff is addctive and can spin wildly out of control /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

    P.S. check out the AZ forum there are a lot of good people inthe area to help you out. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
     
  4. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    My first K5 was a 72. I'm still kicking myself for ever selling that one. Being that you're in AZ, you should be able too find a rust free truck. Big + in my honest opinion. I'd look for a first gen. K5. If you can find one with a blown engine for dirt cheap, then build it the way you want it. There is nothing like a first gen K5 with a 454/sm465/ and 1 ton axles. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif I will find another 72 one of these days and start all over.
     
  5. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    The cheapest way to get a good wheeler is to buy one from somebody else that is already done. Many people seem to get sick of their rigs or pissed off and sell them for pennies on the dollar for what they're actually work.

    In my opinion it costs about $20000 to build a highly capable, hardcore off road machine. Others may disagree but start adding up your receipts and you'll realize you have far more invested in your machine that you're willing to admit.

    If you're heart set on building one, do it in stages. My first suggestion is to decide on a wheelbase. If you are happy with the K5 wheelbase or somewhere in that neighborhood, start with that.

    First mod right off the bat is 3/4 ton axles. Throw new balljoints in it up front, have the rotors turned, replace the grease seals, re pack the wheel bearings, replace the calipers and pads with reman loaded caliper assemblies, replace the u joints with Spicers, add the locker and gears of your choice and you're done with the front. This will likely cost $500-1000 to build the front. You may also wish to add crossover steering and or hi steer and hydro assist at this time but that will add further to the expense. In the rear, throw some discs, gears, and a locker in your 14 bolt full floater and call it done.

    Decide what size tires you want right from the beginning. Lift the truck sufficiently to clear these tires with the desired fender trimming. 4" is enough if you're running 3/4 ton gear.

    A fuel injected truck is probably what I'd start with. If you're heart set on building one get the raggediest mechanical disaster you can find with an intact body and minimal rust. Check the problem areas. Be prepared to replace nearly every mechanical part of the rig. Maybe not all at once, but in time.

    After you're done with the axles, and provided the engine is mechanically sound and it's got a decent set of tires, wheel it for a few seasons and make modifications as necessary.

    If I'd known before I started what I know now it'd be amazing how much more capable my truck would be. Take your time. Do not make this truck your daily driver until you're nearly done building it.

    Either that or buy a purpose built rig already and a trailer. K5DRAGER has been trying to sell his rig for some time. If you have a trailer and an intense desire to hit some of the hardest trails in America, throwing $4500 at that rig will definitely give you something you could never build for twice that price.

    If you have any specific questions at this time, search, then post them up. We'll be glad to answer all of your questions.

    If you have any questions while you're building it up, we're all here to help you.

    Maybe consider buying a membership to CK5 before you even get a K5.

    One of the best places to buy a rig, whether it's a stocker or a built machine, is right here.
     
  6. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    Welcome Andy ,

    You can look at some of the AZ guys trucks and get plenty of ideas . We have a forum here for our region as well . It will be easy to find a truck here to build when you know what you are after . Don't be afraid to ask questions . It would be a good idea to show up on a trail ride too , to see what works and what we wheel on out here . Look in my sig , I have pics of some AZ guys in my webshots , as well as links from there to some other locals trucks /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  7. playin_dirty

    playin_dirty Registered Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    the best is to start from scratch and build up... you learn alot, then also can take pride in saying, "yeah, I built that truck" when you talk to other fourwheelers.
    if you buy one that has already been "built" up, you risk the chance of the preivius owner abusing it, causing alot of damage, and parts for you to buy in the future.
    I myself, like the 2nd gen's (73-91) but if you want full convertable 1st gen.'s are better (69-72). Is the 5k for everything? or after you buy the truck? I think thats plenty of money to start with /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif
    good luck

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Thanks for the reply. I think it would be way more fun to build it myself as well. The $5000 is just for any mods I need to do to it. Obviously, I would rather not spend all of it, but you also get what you pay for, so Im dont want to half-ass anything. I am mainly looking at year range 1978-1985. The removable top isnt that big of a deal, but I do like the slider windows that come in some of the models. Its tough finding a good project Blazer. Most of them for sale have already been altered. Maybe a junk yard? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  8. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Its tough finding a good project Blazer

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Not really , there are plenty out here . There is a 78 right around the corner from me in Mesa , thas still stock height /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  9. OLD DAWG

    OLD DAWG 1/2 ton status

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    Hi and welcome to the board. First off most of us will agree that if we knew how hard we were gonna end up using our rigs we would have built them more HD the first time around. But it's a learning experience. I guess my advice would be to build it for 2yrs. /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grind.gif /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif in the future. Meaning, go bigger than you would ever expect too need. It will save? /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif you money and work? /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif in the long run. Sorry about the ramble but it's been about 36hrs since I've slept(trying to buy bigger parts gets expensive /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif) Good luck
     
  10. Paxx

    Paxx 1/2 ton status

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    I think that the best way to start would be to find your k5 cheap. Like mentioned above something with a blown engine that you can get for pennies. Then I would find a complete running k30. Take the engine, tranny, t-case, and axles and swap them into your k5. Figure out what type of lift you want to run, usually in the neighborhood of $500 or so, then buy yourself some custom driveshafts.

    You would now have a complete 1 ton k5 which can handle any size tire up to 44's, with enough power to spin them and not break any parts while doing it. From there take it to the trails and you will be able to decide when it is time for lockers, crossover steering, etc. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

    This way, right off the bat you will have the piece of mind knowing that you won't be wasting money fixing parts that just need to be upgraded in the end anyways. The remainder of your money can go towards mods rather than repairs.

    Myself, I started by upgrading parts as they broke on the trail which was very frusterating and time consuming. I could have saved myself a lot of money in the long run had I started how I mentioned above.

    Hope this helps out some. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

    Oh and spend your first $25 on a membership here. It pays for itself fast. Just take a look at the members discount page and you will see how fast /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    ~Max
     
  11. playin_dirty

    playin_dirty Registered Member

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    Wow. You guys rock. There are lots of forums out there where people could care less about eachother, but in here its great. Its a scary process getting into building/buying a wheelin truck, cause theres so much to do with it and it can be a never ending money pit. After reading the responses so far, and getting blurred vision and an inflated brain reading through all the forums, I have come up with some initial things to do. I found a '79 K5 for sale at only $900 OBO. It is in need of light body work, light interior work and major motor work. Apparently it does not even start right now. Probably needs tranny work as well. Anyways, if I go for this truck, I would do a complete tear down on it and replace the front with the D44 or D60 and a 14bolt SF for the rear. To be honest, I really dont know what those are, but that everyone seems to like that set up. I plan on running 35" tires with a 4"suspension lift and 2" body lift. What I dont know is what tranny/transfer case combo works well. Also, Im not sure what Im going to do with the motor...rebuild it, get a crate motor, or find one already rebuilt. Even though I dont know much about the parts for these trucks, I am a really good mechanic (factory endorsed in motorcycle mechanics), so Im not afraid to take on the projects. I just need to know what works well. /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif Thanks again for everything guys. You are awesome. Also, I will continue to keep tabs on the Arizona forum as well to see what the locals are running.
     
  12. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    forget about whether or not full conv or half cab is a preferance... get a K5 with fuel injection stock. Its pretty much all that is going to survive on a rig once you get corrupted by the 4x4 habit anyway! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    j
     
  13. playin_dirty

    playin_dirty Registered Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    [ QUOTE ]
    Its tough finding a good project Blazer

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Not really , there are plenty out here . There is a 78 right around the corner from me in Mesa , thas still stock height /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Any idea on the cost and location or phone number? I live in NE Mesa and would be willing to check it out.
     
  14. Paxx

    Paxx 1/2 ton status

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    Well as far as the axles go, the d44 is no stronger than the stock front 10 bolt you would have now. You mentioned this will be mainly off-road only which I forsee as meaning "It will be abused". Go with a d60.

    Tranny you will want either a th400 auto tranny or a sm465 manual. These are the strongest out there.

    T-case there is only 1 in my mind and that is the np205. This thing can handle up to 1200ft/lbs of tourque.

    All of these items can be found stock in a 1 ton chev which is why I suggested you find one of those next /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Your doing it right though, just keep the questions coming and we'll help out whenever we can /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif
     
  15. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    Southside of Broadway west of Ellsworth , can't miss it . Brown , Tan center , chrome grill , stock height . Don't look too bad , but I never went up close .

    There are also a bunch in the autotrader , but most are 3-4 grand , and already lifted ( It was more fun lifting mine myself with several CK5 members ) /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  16. Paxx

    Paxx 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    and a 14bolt SF for the rear.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Oh and you want the 14bolt FF not the semi-floating. The full-floater is far stronger than the sf.
     
  17. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    What part of AZ are you in? Phoenix Metro? I would try and meet up with some of us AZ guys and get an idea for what we drive, why we built it the way it is and get insight. There are project trucks all over AZ. Anything from stock to built is available all the time. Check the Auto Trader.

    Harley
     
  18. playin_dirty

    playin_dirty Registered Member

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    Thanks Paxx. With the exception of buying another 1-ton to get these parts off of, do you know a good place to buy them? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Theres sooo much to know and do. I want to make sure I have all the bases covered. Also, is $900 a good price for a '79 project truck? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  19. Paxx

    Paxx 1/2 ton status

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    The reason I suggest buying the parts truck is because it will save you a ton of cash. If you buy the parts separatly it will get way out of hand quick. For example a d60 front will go for around $1000 if you can find one. A running big block maybe $700-$1000, 14bff $200, tranny/t-case??? maybe $500. Then shipping them all or picking them up as well as hoping that you bought the right one to mate to the next etc.

    If you get them all from one truck, everything mates up and all the spare parts you need are right there. You could definitly buy from members here or locals that you know but chances are you will spend a lot more doing it that way.
     
  20. playin_dirty

    playin_dirty Registered Member

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    Gotcha. That makes sense. Ok, last question for the night, since my brain is ready to explode. If I leave the stock setup that the truck has on it currently, and still go with the larger 35" tires and lift...whats the likelyhood of something messing up anytime soon. Like, would I be able to run with the stock axle setup for awhile, and swap them out later? You know what I mean? I just cant see spending that money on the axles if I dont really need them yet, as long as Im not too hard on them.
     

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