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newbie ?'s

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by jhixf564, Dec 30, 2005.

  1. jhixf564

    jhixf564 Newbie

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    I’m looking to buy a CK5 this year. I wanted to ask ya’ll what year model you thought would be the best to buy and why. I will be using it to hunt, fish (towing a 3500lb boat and trailer), out of and play in the mud a little. I want to keep some streetabiliy to it so I can drive it to work in bad weather. Which means ice in my part of NC.
    2nd Question, What would be the best size tires and what lift for the above scenario?
    3. Any other suggestions as to what mods would benefit the above.
    4. Just wondering about these doubler things. I would think the above truck wouldn’t need one. For those that do need them can you switch out 241s for 203s or 205s. Just sort of wondering about this.

    Justin
     
  2. darkshadow

    darkshadow 1 ton status

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    for what you discribe you do NOT need a doubler, people that need them need the extreamly low gears for crawing.

    ii would recomend a suburban ( i am partal:D) th ewheel base is nice for towing, and the room cant be beat.

    if our not a fan the blazers can also tow quite well, are only 2 door, i would think for reliability the 87-91 models for fuel injection, a mild lift and 33's you would be well on your way to a nice hunting rig :waytogo:

    and welcome to the site, dave
     
  3. ryan22re

    ryan22re 1/2 ton status

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    88's and 89's

    fuel injection, 241's and no abs (i think)

    pretty sure they had the 30 spline 10 bolts.

    thats what i would look for.
     
  4. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Welcome to ColoradoK5!

    Firstly there is no CK5. CK5 is just what we affectionately call this place (short for coloradoK5) A K5 is likely what you're looking at to buy.

    2. Most everyone will recomend an 87-91 Blazer or Jimmy, mostly because they were fuel injected and you can probably find one in nicer shape than the older ones.

    A 2.5" lift and some 33's should be plenty for what you're describing. It'll also still be OK for light towing.

    3. Steering box brace, good gearing and a rear locker plus the largest stacked plate tranny cooler you can find if you get one with a 700r-4.

    4. You don't need a doubler.

    Rene
     
  5. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    Look for one made from 1989 to 1991. Post '89 TH700R4s are the better ones... and anything after 87 with be fuel injected (major plus) and serpentine-belted. Additionally, 10-bolt front ends on 89+ K5s are 30-spline instead of 28 like the older ones. The T-case in these late K5s is the np241... which is a very good case, especially with a fixed rear yoke. Low range is 2.72:1... which is plenty for your application.



    Guess it depends on how much mud we are talking about. Serious mud bogging takes big tires and big lifts.... neither of which is good for towing or streetability. My guess is, you prolly won't be doing super deep mud... but you will be driving on the street a lot etc. I'd therefore recommend either a 2-3" lift with 33" tires or a 4" lift with 35s. Since you will be towing, it'd prolly be best to use what we call an "all spring lift" meaning that all 4 springs are replaced with new ones with a greater amount of arch. Wacky shackles, shackle flips, extended shackles etc could making towing a little more hairy.



    Some fender trimming and good tube bumpers are always nice with low-lift rigs... because they increase approach/departure angles. Manual hubs would be a good upgrade, automatics are crap. Lots of other usefull stuff... depending on your needs. A hilift jack would be good... rocker panel replacement or rock sliders... a winch. It goes on and on. :)

    you dont need one... save your $ for other things.

    j
     
  6. jhixf564

    jhixf564 Newbie

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    I didn't think I would need a doubler. Just wondered if transfer cases are easily changed from one to another? Sorry for the CK thing, I've read this site so much over the past few weeks, I have been reprogrammed. The stuff I thought I knew I didn't, the stuff I didn't know I didn't. I understand just about enough to ask for help and hope ya'll don't make that damn mod bug bite me like it has! If it does I'm telling my wife it is ya'lls fault!

    thanks for the quick reply's
    Justin
     
  7. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    T-cases can be direct swaps, but not often. They're mostly different lengths and can have any of three input gear spline counts. Often they need specific adaptors. Lastly you'll almost always need new drivelines or the old ones modified.

    Modding these things does get very addictive. The more you wheel it the more you want to modify it, then wheel more and modify more. Soon it's a truggy on beadlocked 42's, with a 500+ inch big block, dual cases, locked one ton diff's and riding a trailer from state to state looking for more and more hardcore trails...:whistle:

    About 8 years ago I thought I was almost 'done' when I threw some 35's on my truck...:haha: :haha: :haha: :haha:

    Rene
     
  8. darkshadow

    darkshadow 1 ton status

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    done?

    :haha: :haha: :haha: :haha:

    good one rene , lol




    ah done yeah right
     
  9. Leper

    Leper 1/2 ton status

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    I thought the same thing. Now I am saying it again after the 60/14 and 39.5" Rockers, with crossover and high steer and a SYE on the 241.

    **back on topic**
    IIWY I would put zero-rates in it and run 33s. You can/will always go bigger. Suburbans are nice for towing, but a K5 is easier to manuver and a bit lighter. I agree with the 89-91. I have a 91 Blazer and a 90 Burban. If you want to haul people, the Burban is king.
     

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