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Newer suburban question.

Discussion in '1992-Present Chevy & GMC models' started by Goose, Jun 18, 2006.

  1. Goose

    Goose 1/2 ton status

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    I have a friend wanting to get a newer chev/gmc suburban in the 1995 to 2002 or so range.

    In this range what are things so look out for?
    I've seen a 6.5 turbo diesel that looked good, any problems with these?

    Any year-specific problems?

    thanks in advance
     
  2. sweetk30

    sweetk30 professional hooker Premium Member

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    ifs 4x4 = eat all front end parts like ball joints and steering parts.

    also check the rear springs the eye likes to spread out and break . and then need new springs.

    other than that just tipical stuff like other rides.
     
  3. CrewCab59

    CrewCab59 1/2 ton status

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    They made them in 1500/2500 The 1500 were same as 2500 except the had 3.73 gears instead of the 4.10 .(You could special order 3.73 or 4.10 as well..
    95-99 Subs with the 6.5 TD
    # Engine problems
    Cooling problems
    Injection pumps
    cracked heads
    craked blocks
    Blow head gasket
    fuel pumps

    #diff problems
    front diff actuator for the 4wheel drive ( all IFS 88-99 trucks,tahoe,Subs)
    ball joint's
    cv axle/boots
    Front seals

    * 6.5 TD don't like to run on Veggie oil*
    The biggest thing is to find one that was taken care of!!

    CrewCab59
     
  4. Goose

    Goose 1/2 ton status

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    thanks for the good information

    anybody else??
     
  5. dhcomp

    dhcomp 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    Try to get a 2000 or newer. Besides having teh 5.3 instead of the 5.7, and no diesel option, the newer ones are way nicer.
     
  6. Goose

    Goose 1/2 ton status

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    cool, thanks
     
  7. linksvu

    linksvu Registered Member

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    After 1997, almost all of the above mentioned 6.5td problems were addressed and taken care of. I have two, both after 97, and I have had to do were the PMD (which you should do on any 6.5td). Personally, I would go for the 6.5td hands-down (if it was taken care of). The mileage is better, the power is better, the resale value is better.

    Also, there was more of a difference in the 1500hd than just the gears...the brakes were smaller and almost all of the suspenions parts were the 1500's rather than the 2500's or even 3500's in certain packages of the 2500 suburbans. Therefore, I would find a real 2500 if you could, but a 1500hd is not bad.

    The 5.3 was said to be better, from what I hear, but I like the c/k body style from 92-99 personally. The first year of every model always has more problems than the following years.

    Get the 6.5td before someone else gets it!
     
  8. linksvu

    linksvu Registered Member

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    Also, I have run mine of b100 and there is no difference in performance outside of the smell...cannot speak for veggie oil, but that is a bit different anyhow. You need an entire system change for that..
     
  9. linksvu

    linksvu Registered Member

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    I know most of the guys here are IFS haters, but if take care of them and don't jump them 4 feet in the air (which I have done), the k2500 IFS are solid suspenions. I have NEVER replaced any damaged suspenions parts on my two k2500's in the almost 200k I have put on between the both of them. Everything was just maintaince that comes with owning a truck and I have no worries.

    Suggestions: find a well cared for k2500 with either 6.5td or 454 95 or newer...replaced the front rotors, pads, calipers, and have fun carrying all seven of your buddies.
     
  10. extremetahoe

    extremetahoe 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I've had both and the straight axle conv. was the best thing that I did to my 99 tahoe besides the Atlas II 5.0:1, I personally hate the IFS because there are to many moving parts that can break, and the ball joints are smaller. And on top of that the cup for the cv axle tends to crack easily. But I do have some stuff that would help someone if they decided to do a straight axle conv. I have a chevy 10 bolt front end completely rebuilt. Only thing that it needs is calipers, pads and tierod. New hubs, bearings, seals, 3.73's good shape. Great axle it was the first thing that I put in mine when I did the swap. But you will have to go w/ passenger side drop transfer case though. Asking 250.00 + shipping. preferably pickup though.. I've got an NP241 transfer case(driver side drop) works perfect, $200.00, IFS differential, and 2.5" lift kit( arms and axle shafts, brakes and all) out of a 99 chevy tahoe. The lift I payed $530.00 from Rocky Mountain Suspension. I'll sacrifice all the differential stuff including the lift for $500.00. If you've ever tried to buy parts for IFS it isn't cheap. All is in great shape except for the differential housing, I had a place around here do a front end alignment and they jacked it up and caused the eyelet to break off the housing, but everything still works perfectly inside and I know that the gears inside are perfect, and the drivers side axle cup and joint are broken. But that's why I hate IFS. I also have a dana 44 out of a '94 dodge 3/4 ton w/ 3.55 gears, driver side chunk. The perfect thing for that straight axle conv. You get to keep your transfer. If you know of anybody that can use any of this stuff please send them my way. Thanks. If you would like some pics on the straight axle conv. just let me know. I PROMISE that you won't be disappointed if you decide to go through w/ it. These parts have never been in the mud or mistreated except for hunting season. I don't like mud and it doesn't like cv joints or electronics. Thanks for you time hopefully you can help me out on selling some of this stuff. " IF YOU SELL IT FOR ME, I WILL SEND YOU A CUT..... " IF YOU DO THE WORK TO SELL IT, IT WILL PAY OFF IN THE END FOR YOU. JUST MAKE SURE YOU HAVE PAY PAL SO I CAN SEND YOU YOUR SHARE... THANKS AGAIN...
     
  11. BigBen

    BigBen 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    You're right, there are so many IFS haters around here.
    It all depends on what you want to do....
    I'll be honest, I mostly street drive my trucks and use them off-road from time to time to get to a fishing hole or something like that. (= I am not hardcore, and I'm OK with that)

    My '85 k5 needed new steering parts around 115,000 miles to be able to align it. My '74 needed the same at 120,000 miles. (Both stock height with 31" tires) SFA steering parts just seem to wear out in that timeframe.

    Now, my '95 2-door Yukon with IFS has gone 216,000 miles without going out of alignment. (Have it checked every 30k miles or so when I get the tranny serviced). I have never had to change a balljoint or steering part. The only thing I have done is replace the Bilstein shocks at 200,000 miles. My father's '92 suburban is a similar situation. The only bad thing up front seems to be that they EAT brake rotors.

    Plus, the IFS trucks are a LOT nicer to drive on-road IMHO.

    Take it for what you want, but I am VERY happy with my mid-90's IFS truck as a driver that gets offroad from time to time.


    And, FWIW, at 216,000 miles I'm still daily driving on my original Fuel Pump, CV shafts, Front Diff actuator, and more. If you take care of your stuff, it will take care of you.
     
  12. BigBen

    BigBen 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Oh, and to be fair:

    If 1/2 ton, make sure you check the rear axle seals. Been a lot of trouble for me over the years on my '95.

    If 95 and before GAS (Pre-vortec), check the intake manifold gasket against the heads. They all seem to start leadking between 120k and 150k miles.

    If post '95 GAS (vortec) I've head about seal problems with the new coolant where the heater core lines come back into the manifold.

    If 97(?) and later you'll have passenger airbag and that cool "unlock" switch at the tailgate that I wish I had (not sure if this made it past 2000).

    If the truck has an engine oil cooler, check the lines for oozing and seeping. I've been changing mine every 40k miles or so to feel comfortable. (some guys never change them and never have a problem.... I'm a chicken)

    Also, these mid-90s 350s tended to have a bad o-ring for the oil filter adapter... they would slowly leak oil right above the filter. $5 part from GM and a couple hours and I haven't had a leak since 120k miles.

    And like I said, the 1/2 tons seem to eat brake rotors.

    The 2000 and beyond are "nicer" trucks, but a lot more computerized and fancy. (no distributor, individual coil packs, driver info center, etc.....) Depends on what you like!

    Happy truck hunting!
     

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