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Nitro RC talk.

Discussion in 'The Lounge' started by 68MUDSTUD, Aug 14, 2006.

  1. 68MUDSTUD

    68MUDSTUD OCD with shiny things

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  2. garlicbreath

    garlicbreath 1/2 ton status

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    Lots of Vaseline!!!


    They are pretty good out of the box. It helps to take em apart and clean the diffs and everything after soaking it, but a baloon over the reciever, tie wrap it shut and a dab of silicone will do wonders. The servos are pretty sealed, but a wrap of electrical tape around the seam helps. Clean and oil the bearings regularly. I beat the snot of my original T-maxx and it survived 3 years of it before I sold it to some kid in Hawaii.
     
  3. Drey

    Drey 3/4 ton status

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    Dang...im out of the loop for like 2 years and they got a 3.3 maxx now...my god
     
  4. fabjunkie

    fabjunkie 1/2 ton status

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    Man as cool as those are and as much as I'd like to have one, I think I could easily sink as much $ into one as I have in my truck.:crazy:
     
  5. 85burbanator

    85burbanator 1/2 ton status

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    should have got a savage. my boss had a tmaxx and it broke alot, got a savage and hasnt had any probs. i myself just got a savage x. bad ass rigs. i want to run it against a tmaxx but dont ever have time to get up to the track.
     
  6. yoshisv

    yoshisv 1/2 ton status

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    My 2.5 T-maxx would leave my buddies savage in the dust! A whole lot of it has to do with tuning though. After i bought the aluminum frame, and skid plates i never had a issue with breakage.
     
  7. 68MUDSTUD

    68MUDSTUD OCD with shiny things

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    where do you all get your aftermarket parts? this is my first nitro truck...
     
  8. yoshisv

    yoshisv 1/2 ton status

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    Depends on what you want. i got the supercharger from a website called www.rbinnovations.com and my dual exhaust from www.2coolrc.com. I had tires made by Imex that look just like boggers. My aluminum frame, bulkheads, skid plates, And bumpers were by Integy.
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2006
  9. Loose Nut

    Loose Nut Banned

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    my tmaxx is fubared at the moment. 2 years ago i made it a hobby of jumping it off of a ramp attached to a picnic table and launching it 30 feet out into the hard while my cousin tried to catch it.

    fun times :)
     
  10. 68MUDSTUD

    68MUDSTUD OCD with shiny things

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    Holy Sh!t Yoshiv, that 2nd link is GREAT!!!! I cant stop looking at the diffs and skidplates! im dreaming already lol
     
  11. Loose Nut

    Loose Nut Banned

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    stuff is a bit exspensive imho.

    i wanna get a e-maxx and make it a rock crawler :)
     
  12. Avery4jc

    Avery4jc 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    garlicbreath nailed the sealing part, basically get good quality Hitec servos since they are basically water proof. One other great trick is to take them and dip them in the liquid rubber you can get at the hardware store for re-dipping the handles of your tools, then just clean off the splines and pop the servo horn back on, instant H20 proofing.

    As far as the aftermarket goes, just start by getting it broken in properly first. I drove a 3.3 at the shop and it screams but those Traxxas engines are very picky as far as the break in process goes, don't let anyone tell you anything different. For basic parts just use www.towerhobbies.com and find the t-maxx 3.3 then click on the left tool bar "replacement and optional parts" and it'll list most everything you'll ever need.

    As far as the supercharger setup, I've worked on them too and it isn't worth it so don't waste your money on one for the 3.3 engine, just run it on Traxxas 33% and richen up the high speed needle about 3/4 of a turn and you'll be set.

    Oh, and loosenut just go to www.rccrawler.com and learn about Tamiya's great little invention called the clodbuster before you go off converting an e-maxx over to crawl. I've seen plenty of them converted and they work well but nothing beats a clod, especially a stick chassi'd clod.

    Oh, and I almost forgot, before you go off trying to wheelie (which isn't very hard with this truck) tighten up the stock slipper clutch as tight as you can get it. It almost defeats the purpose of having a slipper clutch but the stock traxxas unit doesn't work as well as aftermarket setups like the Robinson Racing setup. The new T-Maxx 3.3 uses the revo tranny so it's slipper setup is improved some but I've still seen them slip plenty.

    Have fun!

    -Avery
     
  13. 68MUDSTUD

    68MUDSTUD OCD with shiny things

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    You are an RC Nitro God. Any other tips? how do i tighten that slipper clutch up? what would you do to it (performance wise) first?
     
  14. Avery4jc

    Avery4jc 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I PM'd you about the body question your PM'd me about...To tighten up the slipper clutch just hold the spur gear/pad assembly in one hand and then slide a socket over (it should come w/ one, normall for the wheel nuts too) and just tighten it up as tight as you can get it (within reason, just know that if it feels powerless and nothing is stripped normally it's the slipper not being tight enough). If it continually backs off you can back the nut off, put some blue loc tight on then tighten it back on and let it sit for a little while.

    Uh, like I said as far as upgrades go performance wise it's a pretty stout truck so I'd just worry about breaking it in exactly how they tell you to. It sounds stupid but just do it. Oh, watch the dvd that it comes with, it'll tell you a ton of information and show you how the break in process should look.

    -Avery
     
  15. yoshisv

    yoshisv 1/2 ton status

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    The cooler you keep the engine the better. I would invest in to a better heat-sink head($30+), And maybe a flashpoint infrared sensor gauge($25).
     
  16. Avery4jc

    Avery4jc 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Hmm to a point but I wouldn't swap out the cooling head on it. The new 3.3 has a lot of surface area on the head and it works quite well. The flash point is a great investment though. It will help you tune it once you get it broken in. If it's above the 240* range then richen up the high speed needle to give it more fuel and cool it off, if it's in the sub 200* range then you can lean it out, cutting fuel flow which increases performance and brings engine temps. up to operating temperature. Each engine is different though, tune it in for the best performance/life then take the temp. of the engine, then you'll know a base line setting for your particular engine. After you break in the engine you need to make sure it stays in that operating temperature because these sleeves are tapered so the piston wedges itself up to TDC then is pushed back down, that's how they make compression so if it isn't at the same temperature all the time (or at least close) then the piston and sleeve won't expand/contract to the same size and you'll either have too much compression or not enough. It is more than 110* for weeks at a time here in Fresno and I don't have any problem with the stock heads, swaping a cooling head just to try to cool it down in most cases is just a cover up for poor tuning.

    Flash Point

    When you go to start it for the first time you might want to make sure that the engine isn't at TDC by using a screwdriver to turn the engine over via the flywheel, after it "pops" then use the electric starter, otherwise it isn't strong enough when these engines are brand new to turn it over, it takes a little momentum. ;)


    Another trick is to take the glow plug out and put two compressoin rings on it if you can't get it to start because the compression is so tight, once it's started just go through the first tank of break in then bring it in and while it's cooling off you can pull off one compression ring to run it like it's designed to and bring compression back up, sometimes you have to do it, other times you don't. Either way just make sure you don't force the EZ-Start sytem or you'll fry it, that and don't sit there for 30 seconds holding it down, you'll burn up the one way on the back of the engine.


    -Avery
     
  17. 68MUDSTUD

    68MUDSTUD OCD with shiny things

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    awesome guys, thanks a bunch! Any other tips, feel free to post them here.:bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
     
  18. MTChevy

    MTChevy 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    Avery you are the RC MAN!
     
  19. Avery4jc

    Avery4jc 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Well I've been into it for over 12 years which is an eternity when your 17. I got bored with it about a year ago or so since I had literally done everything, no joke. Every class, most races, every company, built everything I wanted and sold/traded like crazy. I still work at the local hobby shop that I started at when I was 14 (shh, started under the table) and it's fun. Between my personal collection through the years and everything I see come through the shop it's hard to not know most everything about these little rigs.

    They are actually what got me into the full size stuff, if you guys ever have r.c. questions just post up, PM or e-mail me and I'll help ya' out.

    -Avery
     
  20. Loose Nut

    Loose Nut Banned

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    Ok, well thanks to you im building a crawler now. I notice they want to use Clod axles, is there any alternitive? if i can go stronger, or possibly a little less bulky to offer up some more clearence that would be cool.


    thanks :)
     

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