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No Overloads and 1" zero rates?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by BlitzK5, Oct 8, 2005.

  1. BlitzK5

    BlitzK5 1/2 ton status

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    Is the overload even needed? I currently have mind flipped for better flex but have not tested it out yet. I was thinking since its flipped then what's the point of even having it. I was thinking of just replacing it with a 1" zero rate to make it around the same height. Has anyone taken out there overload before? and if so have you ever broke your leaf because of it? and what were you doing?
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2005
  2. PsychoticDeadGuy

    PsychoticDeadGuy 1/2 ton status

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    you dont need to spend the money to go get a zero rate. just chop the ends off of your over load. i have no overload on my rear 63s i just installed and i put a zero rate on them to make up for the height i lost by taking the overload off. the only reason i didnt cut the overlaod was because i have the zero rates sitting there.
     
  3. BlitzK5

    BlitzK5 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah I got the Zero rate sitting here so that is why I was thinking of doing it. I just wanted to know if there were any safety issue without and overloads.
     
  4. original balzer

    original balzer 1/2 ton status

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    are zero rates safe fro the front?
     
  5. cbbr

    cbbr 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Yep.
     
  6. blackblazer717

    blackblazer717 1/2 ton status

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    i believe it would work but i wonder under extreme negative arch if the spring would give way? even with a zero rate.... hummmm. TEST TIME hehehehe...

    LUKE
     
  7. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    Negative arch is the quickest way to kill a spring. I say leave the overload to keep it from going negative. Going negative wears springs out quite a bit.

    Flex at the expense of having to put in new springs every once in a while isn't worth it to me.
     
  8. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    yeah, flip the overloads and leave them in there in a rear app. When swapping rear springs into the front of a rig, I like taking the overload out, because it could theoretically catch on something before the front tires can get up/over, especially if its flipped and sticks down. For the rear though I see no reason not to run the overload... it could definitely save your springs. Sell the zero rate and pocket the $.

    j
     
  9. BlitzK5

    BlitzK5 1/2 ton status

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    Does anyone else have some theories on this? The front doesn't have overloads so why do the rears need them. Im not planning on towing any heavy loads so I would think the springs would be fine. If stress is the issue then why don't the front have some kind of overloads too because they flex just as much as the fronts if not more or are they built differently to handle it?
     
  10. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    See some have said they like running the overloads in the front because it almost acts like a bump stop when far into compression travel. I am going to try running them for a bit and see how it works out on my s10.
     
  11. BlitzK5

    BlitzK5 1/2 ton status

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    Well then couldn't you just remove the overloads and just install large bumpstops to prevent the spring from flexing to much to the point were they will break or become weaker.
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2005
  12. gotmud77

    gotmud77 1/2 ton status

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    I took the over load out and put a 0 rate in. it will negative arch if i am not carefull but thats the only bad part so far. I am going to install the bump stops and that should take care of the negative arch. I only have 3 leaves and the 0 rate in the back of my k5 and i like the way it works.
     
  13. nerraw117

    nerraw117 1/2 ton status

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    i removed my overload from my rear with the echobit flip because it was too much of a rake with my 4 inch front springs. should i put it back?
     
  14. nerraw117

    nerraw117 1/2 ton status

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    and is there a differance between overloads in diferant k5's or trucks? like is one thicker than the other and a differance in 1/2 and 1 ton?
     
  15. AZPiNsTrIpEd

    AZPiNsTrIpEd 1/2 ton status

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    I have no overload in the rear and a zero rate and I definately noticed a difference in flex and ride quality. I also removed a leaf out of the front pack when I put my zero rate up there. The difference in ride is HUGE.

    Keep in mind that body roll gets worse the more leaves you remove. I will probably test it out again once I get the inboarded shocks done. BTW I have the stock 52" springs in the rear.
     
  16. gmc4cw

    gmc4cw 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    the reason the factory puts overload springs in the rear and not the front is due to payload placement or towing. on a stock setup the front springs do not experience as much movement as the rear when you increase payload or tongue weight. I originally cut down my overload but have since removed it when I installed a shackle flip.
     
  17. shane74

    shane74 1/2 ton status

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    The overloads also help w/ spring wrap. If you were to remove the overload and replace it, I would seriously recommend an anti-wrap device and longer bump stops to prevent negative arch.
     
  18. 1BEATK5

    1BEATK5 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I yanked the overload and the bottom 2 leaves out of my 56"s and I am really happy with the ride and flex. they where from a junk yard 85' c30, and that was 3 years ago with no problems.however i do have a 3.5" block under them and they do have some minor axle wrap. I am now considering some custom packs with alot of thin leaves to junk the block and keep the ride.
    I would also take in to account the height of the truck, mine is 8" and 42s and it leans like mad in corners, which it didn't do as much when it had 52s and overloads.
     

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