Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Non-Cv Front Drive shaft?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by trollporter, Nov 7, 2005.

  1. trollporter

    trollporter 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2004
    Posts:
    518
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lady's Island, SC
    I'm looking into converting to a non-cv front driveshat because of length and angle problems caused by adding a clocking ring. I'm wanting to build my own square driveshaft but need to find a 4 bolt flange style yoke that will bolt to the front output of my np241. Will one out of a drivers side drop IFS truck work? Is there anywhere else that might sell one?

    any help on this would be great!

    thanks, troy
     
  2. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2002
    Posts:
    6,587
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Sheridan, Michigan
    yep, the one from a fullsize IFS truck will fit. i have seen some IFS trucks with a CV and others that are not.
     
  3. u2slow

    u2slow 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 9, 2001
    Posts:
    2,217
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    BC Canada
    The 88-98 IFS trucks used non-CV front shafts. Early ones were flanged, later ones were just a yoke. Flange pattern is the same as the older CV type... we used to recycle damaged CV flanges to make replacement shafts for these trucks.
     
  4. smokkey1

    smokkey1 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2004
    Posts:
    2,677
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA
    what about using a front shaft from a ford bronco not sure of the years but I know they came with 208's that are clocked from the factory.
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2007
  5. Canadian Trailblazer

    Canadian Trailblazer Registered Member

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2003
    Posts:
    76
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Southern Ontario, Canada
    I took apart my CV joint and cut out the ball and socket and middle portion. Ground it for clearance and, voila. El cheapo, 'high clearance' single ujoint, flange style front d-shaft. Its been in there for a few years now.
     
  6. trollporter

    trollporter 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2004
    Posts:
    518
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lady's Island, SC
    Thats kind of what i was thinking about doing.

    thanks,troy
     
  7. trollporter

    trollporter 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2004
    Posts:
    518
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lady's Island, SC
    What size U-joint did you use after cutting the CV? I'm running a stock 1310 @ the pinion yoke, will that same size work?

    thanks, troy
     
  8. trollporter

    trollporter 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2004
    Posts:
    518
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lady's Island, SC
  9. trollporter

    trollporter 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2004
    Posts:
    518
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lady's Island, SC
    Back TTT please

    thank,troy
     
  10. u2slow

    u2slow 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 9, 2001
    Posts:
    2,217
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    BC Canada
    The saginaw CV uses a S44 joint... not a 1310. There is a mixed-cross conversion joint though.

    The old Spicer CV uses a 1310... but then that's not the flange style you are after.
     
  11. trollporter

    trollporter 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2004
    Posts:
    518
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lady's Island, SC
    Well I finally found the u-joint I was looking for. If any one else needs to know the PN# is (Advance Auto) PDQ 2-3011. Using this u-joint eliminates the factory internal plastic ring and replaces it with the inside c-clips.

    For anyone doing this be sure when you cut the cross pieces off of the flange and yoke(formally part of the CV-joint) that you grind the inside face of the yoke ears smooth where you cut it off. Because if you didn't cut close enough you'll never get the inside c-clips in. It's also a good time to do any clearence grinding.

    troy
     
  12. thedrip

    thedrip 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2003
    Posts:
    1,129
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Chattanooga, TN
    I did the same thing 2 days ago, except I only used the flange side of the s44 (3011) ujoint, I used 1310 on the other side of the upper ujoint, the joint is a little more expensive, but if I ever find a 1310 yoke for a 30 spline output, I dont have to remake my driveshaft, and then it'll all be 1310s up front. Of course, I'd like to redo the whole front in 1350s to match the rear... and then a doubler so I'd need a new shaft any7wa, etc etc etc
     
  13. smokkey1

    smokkey1 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2004
    Posts:
    2,677
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA
    have any pictures?
     
  14. Chaddy

    Chaddy 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    May 23, 2005
    Posts:
    4,110
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Salt Lake City,Utah
    I just clocked my 241c and had to get a 2 piece carrier bearing super spline to correct the angle .......400$
     
  15. trollporter

    trollporter 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2004
    Posts:
    518
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lady's Island, SC
    Do you have a part # for this joint?

    thanks, troy
     

Share This Page