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Not even done and I'm already wanting to change it...

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 55Willy, Nov 11, 2001.

  1. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    Not even done and I\'m already wanting to change it...

    okay heres the situation:
    I'm building the chassis first and when I'm done with it I can roll it under the body and call it good. but now I'm thinking of doing "Aftermarket"( but for some reason they say FOMOCO[​IMG]) Shock Towers on the front. I would like to do it, but is it worth it? I will have 4 front shocks and a rancho dual kit placed on the bench, which I have already mounted, but can easly be removed if this mod is a must have. I would like to stay with Trailmaster SSV's but just run a single in the front.

    So I guess the question is, should I just continue on my way with the construction and kick myself later, or just scrap the duals and do it now? Also I would be needing some longer SSV's for the front if anyone has some for sale....

    <font color=red>Life is like a mud hole:</font color=red><font color=blue>
    When the S#!T gets deep, you have to keep moving and friends can always pull you out</font color=blue>
    55 Willy's
     
  2. seattlek5

    seattlek5 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Not even done and I\'m already wanting to change it...

    Go with the F*** shock towers and 9012's in front and since the body is off it would be real easy to do the upper mounts between the frame rails in the rear.
     
  3. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    Re: Not even done and I\'m already wanting to change it...

    Thanks for the reply. I already have the rear set up just about finished, just need to make one more lower mount.
    Do the shock companies have shock measurements on thier sites so I can figure out how long I can go? Since I'm making inner fenders also I have plenty off room to work with. Also on the front springs can I cut the spring clamps off? they aren't the kind with the bolts just a tab bent around the pack.

    <font color=red>Life is like a mud hole:</font color=red><font color=blue>
    When the S#!T gets deep, you have to keep moving and friends can always pull you out</font color=blue>
    55 Willy's
     
  4. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Not even done and I\'m already wanting to change it...

    I think they make em that way for a reason. Remember this weekend when my rear helper spring was turned slightly? Well how would you like your fornt springs doing that? I think it would make for some sloppy steering and handling characteristics. You want the front to be stable because of the steering. If it's too sloppy then your gonna be all over the road. Well that is my understanding and opinion of it anyways.

    <font color=blue>It's easier to teach a child than to fix an adult.</font color=blue>

    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/geltyone>Webshots Pics.</a>
     
  5. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    Re: Not even done and I\'m already wanting to change it...

    I'm thinking I could just heat them up and bent them straight up so they keep the spings in line, but allow for the springs to stretch out and extend up. I'm just gonna pull the bolt out of the rears. I remember your rears doing that, was that the first time you noticed them doin git or do they like to fan out?

    <font color=red>Life is like a mud hole:</font color=red><font color=blue>
    When the S#!T gets deep, you have to keep moving and friends can always pull you out</font color=blue>
    55 Willy's
     
  6. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Not even done and I\'m already wanting to change it...

    Mine spread out all the time but it's only the helper spring that does it cause the clamps don't reach it. I've heard of people opening up the front clamps but I haven't heard anyone talk about on-road handling. Just seems like it would roll a lot more.

    <font color=blue>It's easier to teach a child than to fix an adult.</font color=blue>

    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/geltyone>Webshots Pics.</a>
     
  7. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    Re: Not even done and I\'m already wanting to change it...

    I'm in no way expecting this thing to ride like a Caddy, but yours was the smoothest I'v been in. My springs will be heavier because I have less weight on them. For a weight aspect take your guys k5's and cut 3" off the rear, take 9" off each side, and a foot off the front. Oh and 4" off along the rockers. Now just gut the interior and and make the front clip(sheetmetal) half the size.[​IMG] So anything to make the front flex better and be softer would be in my best interest. I'm not flaming you in anyway just it's not going be a daily driver or a road coarse champion, it's just a toy.

    <font color=red>Life is like a mud hole:</font color=red><font color=blue>
    When the S#!T gets deep, you have to keep moving and friends can always pull you out</font color=blue>
    55 Willy's
     
  8. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Not even done and I\'m already wanting to change it...

    Why you trying to Flame me Jeremy. Man......a guy tries to offer some advice and he gets s#!t on. that's not cool......I THOUGHT WE WERE FRIENDS MAN?!?!?!?[​IMG][​IMG]

    Now on a serious note.[​IMG] If you want soft don't go rancho springs. And don't do dual shocks. I run Procomp 4" springs and ProComp single shock w/the furd towers and you saw how soft it was. The Rancho 9012's I've heard are excellent for their money. I went ProComp cause I'm poo-folk ya know.

    <font color=blue>It's easier to teach a child than to fix an adult.</font color=blue>

    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/geltyone>Webshots Pics.</a>
     
  9. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    Re: Not even done and I\'m already wanting to change it...

    Yours is by far the smoothest solid axel that I have rode in. You do need to get some Caddy emblems for it,LOL[​IMG]. I'm stuck with the Ranchos because that is what I already have, so free is good, and I'm poo-folk too,lol Thats why I was gonna use the duals I have because I have them so it doesn't cost anything.
    I just want to build it right the first time.

    <font color=red>Life is like a mud hole:</font color=red><font color=blue>
    When the S#!T gets deep, you have to keep moving and friends can always pull you out</font color=blue>
    55 Willy's
     
  10. MTPockets

    MTPockets 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Not even done and I\'m already wanting to change it...

    i run 4" springs and 9012's also, nice ride.

    IMO, a flatter spring will be softer. also, thinner leaves will flex a little easier. from my experience the softest 'over the counter' springs are the skyjacker softrides. these springs use 5 thin leaves to make a 4" lift pack. my tuff country springs use 3 thicker leaves to make up the pack. national or alcan can make some s o f t springs, for $$$.
    i did cut the wrap around spring clamps to allow the leaves to fan out up front. i havent experienced any negative on road handling side effects, yet. just leave enough to contain the leaves.
    dont forget greasable bushings!


    MTPockets

    MAD MAX: http://community.webshots.com/user/mtpockets35
     

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