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not the usual doorless "?"

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by bigjbear, Jun 30, 2005.

  1. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    For those running doorless, particurally those w/o a full cage, have you done anything to replace the loss of support the doors give you? On my '73 I don't run steel doors or a top. It still has the stock hoop behind the front seats and the stock boxed area under each seat. I removed the rocker pannels and cab floor back to just inside the outboard edge of the lower box. Then, I welded in some 4"x4" square tube that totally fills that area. To clear the front body mount I had to cut a wedge out, hammer the tube back together, then weld it back up before sliding it in.

    What I've noticed is now I get huge frame flex w/o the steel doors in. So much that my floor is starting to rip. I'm thinking about adding some bracing from each side of the door jamb down to that 4x4. It would look something like this:
    l\__/l
    Think that would help? I'm not going to spend too much time or $ on this thing because it's basicly a throw away. Something to drive untill I can get the '80 back together. So no, I'm not going to cage it.
     
  2. ntaj*ep

    ntaj*ep 1/2 ton status

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    You mean like these...
    [​IMG]
     
  3. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    That's exactly what I meant. Do they help any?
     
  4. superman6801

    superman6801 Registered Member

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    let me know when you want to get rid of it
     
  5. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    beyond attaching the two hinges to the striker bolt, I'm not sure a door does much. Unless its hung wrong, it shouldn't bind up anywhere around its perimeter, so its not really supporting anything there. I have tube doors personally... and will never go back (which is a good thing cause I sold the factory doors, lol!). Tube doors are stronger, lighter and easier to see out of. Since I started using them, I haven't noticed any of the ill effects you describe.

    j
     
  6. ntaj*ep

    ntaj*ep 1/2 ton status

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    Quite a bit actually. The entire lower a pillar was rotted out on the drivers side. I was worried if I took the top off the windshield was going to fall in. Driving around with only that bracing in before the cage was welded in made a HUGE difference in the feel of the truck. It was way more solid and felt very safe. I just welded the 3x4 sliders to the pinch where the rockers were spot welded and the uprights welded to the door frame and the slider with the braces to that. Then the new floor panels were just attached to the slider. I did use a piece of I think 3/16s flat bar where the front body mounts are which attach to the front uprights, that is the footing for the front portion of the cage.
    If you want some detailed pictures I can take some for you.
     
  7. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    ntaj*ep:
    When you get time that would be great. I want to plan this out before I buy any steel.

    jekbrown:
    IIRC, you have an 80s K5 w/ a steel 1/2 cab, so that might be the differance. When I removed the doors the differance was dramatic. I went from the rollbar hitting the fiberglass 1/2 cab top I was using at the time w/ the doors in, to tearing out the mounting points.

    superman:
    I doubt you'll want it once I get done pulling parts for the '80. But if you have cash I might be willing to keep it together. e-mail me soon, the cutting will most likely start at the end of summer. Or if there are just pieces you want, or you're looking for a presmog truck...
     
  8. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    good point... i have since chopped my half cab off though. lol! before I actually drive it anywhere, rockerboxes and attaching the windshield frame top/sides to the cage will happen.

    j
     

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