Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Not trying to re-invent the wheel...but why not make an easier crossover steering?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by camarossguy2, Oct 24, 2006.

  1. camarossguy2

    camarossguy2 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2004
    Posts:
    214
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    ABQ NM
    Was looking at a jeep today, noticed they have factory crossover steering, it just conects to the tie rod bar and not the knuckle.....as seen below:


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    (I realize the top picture has high steering but pics are hard to find)


    So why go through all the trouble of swapin out knuckle when you could just attach a new drag link directly to the tierod bar or the same mounting point as the tie rod???


    Seems kinda too obvious, but seriously, why not?
     
  2. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2001
    Posts:
    16,217
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Mesa , Arizona USA
    Been done http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83501

    It is allright for the factory engineers to do this , in vehicles the sheep drive , who may sue in accidents . Its also allright for 2/3rds of the lifted towrigs in most states that never leave pavement to run it .

    However it is really bad , and taboo , to really do it , and talk about it on Ck5 , unless your "special" . Carrying a spare draglink , and arm for front back if you break .

    The standard route is to wait and wait for used flattop knuckles , get them machined . Or to buy machined cores , or new parts mike castings . And do the crossover steering .

    Either way you have a factory tre/dle in a hole :D

    My flattops are in the garage , what the hell , no bending anything .
     
  3. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2003
    Posts:
    2,774
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Phoenix AZ
    Print out a picture of a fullsize GM lifted leaf spring front end and try to draw the draglink. It will look lik a big Z when you are done.
     
  4. mxfireman

    mxfireman 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 7, 2002
    Posts:
    2,480
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    LHC, AZ
    Thats funny pauly mine are in the garage just like yours are!!!
     
  5. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2003
    Posts:
    10,276
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Elkhart, IN
    so are mine!
     
  6. 76zimmer

    76zimmer Flyin Rat Premium Member GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2005
    Posts:
    23,033
    Likes Received:
    1,347
    Location:
    Kzoo, Mi
    Mine are in someone else's possession
     
  7. gmc4cw

    gmc4cw 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2006
    Posts:
    3,907
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    west chester, Pa
    1 the leafs springs get in the way of a straight draglink. if you want to convert to spring under it would work.:doah:

    2 who the hell would drive the rig in the first pic? the angle on the draglink is terrible.:eek1:

    3 How dare you use jeep technology in a fullsize. Oh wait everyone is running cherokee steering shafts. Do what you want.:rolleyes:
     
  8. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2001
    Posts:
    32,076
    Likes Received:
    55
    Location:
    .
    Straight drag links perform better. No stress, if any, on them. Curved links can/will bend over time with more stress applied to them.

    In your first picture, the link to the tie rod has been done in the aftermarket a long time ago. The problem I see with using them today on trucks used as hard as these guys abuse them is where the bend on the drag link end is at the pitman arm is more stress on that part which in turn will lead to failure sooner or later. Again, the best link/rod is a straight one, or close to it as possible.
     
  9. jms

    jms 1/2 ton status Author

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2001
    Posts:
    1,683
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    --
    The type of x-over steering where the draglink or a relay rod connects directly to the tie rod has inherent slop built into it, goes about like this: as soon as you push on that draglink (or relay rod) that pushes on that tie rod, guess what will move first? Nope, not the tierod or the knuckle, but the drag link ends and the tie rod ends will cam over, rotating the tie rod forward. Once the TREs have reached end of their range of motion, then the tie rod will start to move sideways and move the knuckles. But the first motion of the steering wheel will not result in steering action. Same as you pull on the draglink, the DLE and the TREs will want to cam backwards, rotating the tie rod at first, etc. etc. And the slop has nothing to do with worn-out TREs because it also does it with new ones; it's just as the TREs wear out, the amount of slop increases...

    If you have x-over to a steering arm on the passenger knuckle, you still have two (drag link) ends that can move - the difference is that they are on the same plane, not 90 degrees off as in the connection to the tie rod. So x-over to a steering arm with the proper angle at the DLE mounting surface is desirable...

    P.S. I learned all this on my wife's FJ40, with manual steering...:D
     
  10. ssped

    ssped 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2006
    Posts:
    1,529
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Mission Viejo
    That was a great analization of the issue. One I did not think about when liiking at the set up but it totally makes sense. Simplified your initial steering imput would just rotate the lower conecting rod and Talk about weak links under force you dont have to worry to much about over stressing the TRE's as you have to wory about down force and side loading turning the lower rod into a pretzel. Imagine taking a pensil, tooth pick or even a Coke can. apply force on the ends and then put side force in the middle. the center gives out.(coke can works good if you are standing on it just watch out for your finger)
     

Share This Page