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Now you've gone and done it

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by BGKYK5, Apr 27, 2007.

  1. BGKYK5

    BGKYK5 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Warning - long post – sorry.


    A while back I posted a question about what I should do with my rusted out ’89 K5 (see it here). Most responses said that I should find a good roller or body and swap my powertrain in. Well, I found one – posted for sale on this site no less! Here is the link to it (hopefully the links will work).

    The good: ’91 K5 with a TBI 350, 700R4, NP241, D44, and 14BFF. It also has a 4” lift and new beadlocks and 38” super swampers.

    The bad: The 700R4 is toast as well as the 14 bolt pinion bearing. He says it’ll need a new R&P, master install kit, and u-joint. T-case and driveshafts are currently out of the vehicle.

    He wants $2500 for it and he is 4 hours a way – so I can’t see it in person before I take the plunge. The pictures he has sent show zero rust and a good body.

    Questions:

    -Anything specific I should look out for that may cause future headaches on this vehicle?

    -Any issues with swapping the good 700R4 out of my beater and into this Blazer? I also have a good NP241.

    -Any issues or things to look out for with the damage to the 14 bolt?

    -Does anybody know this guy or this vehicle and have anything good or bad to say? He seems like a stand-up guy and has been very forthcoming about the issues with it, but I am cynical because I’ve been burned before.

    -This is more than I wanted to spend (I know it always is). Is it a good deal? If so, I call dibs.

    I figure the replacement panels and other stuff will cost me at least $1k (and countless hours) to fix my rust bucket. This way for $1500 more I get new beadlock wheels & tires, a lift, ¾ ton axles, and save a bunch of work. By the time I part out the rust bucket and replace the R&P in the new one I might actually do OK. I’ve got my head stuck in the truck buying fog - what am I missing?

    If I do this and it turns into a nightmare, I’m coming after Boz42, dhcomp, W7NB, and dremu for talking me into this! That is, of course, if my wife doesn't kill me first.
     
  2. blackblazer717

    blackblazer717 1/2 ton status

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    not a bad deal.
    as for the tranny swap. its cake, but ditch that 241......
    and for the pics. see if he can git you some really detailed of ANY and ALL cancer spots.
    LUKE
     
  3. BGKYK5

    BGKYK5 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    He emailed me closeups of the wheel wells, door jams, tailgate area, and under the carpet in a few spots - all clear.
     
  4. southernspeed

    southernspeed 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Ditch the 241? light weight, good reduction........I've got no complaints about mine!
     
  5. fireplug

    fireplug 1/2 ton status

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    Gotta agree! Unless you REALLY need a bombproof setup, that combo is pretty damn good. Even my 6000lb Burb was nimble with that reduction. Ok maybe nimble is the wrong word. :D

    Another rust prone spot is the rear most cross member. Also check the area surrounding the steering box! That is a BIG one.
     
  6. W7NB

    W7NB 1/2 ton status

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    $2500 with a blown tranny seems a little steep to me - I paid $1250 for my 90 in DD condition but stock suspension and tires. I'd have to see what the interior etc looks like before I would decide. My lift/Tires/Wheels added $1800 to mine by the time I got finished so it might not be a bad deal.

    the 700R4 swap is not a big deal, but you will need to get someone savey to set the TV cable for you - it can be a PITA.

    Every vehicle is going to cause you future headaches!:wink1:

    And yeah, go ahead and blame me. But tell your wife it will save you SO many hours and mess to do the swap over fixen the old truck;)

    Stick with the 241. I don't know of anybody who has broken one without doing somthing extreme. Just know they are gonna leak:mad:

    You might want to try to find another 14 bolt with the same RP ratio as the front end. My experience has been it costs more to do an RP swap then to buy another axle - except for DANA 60's of course.
     
  7. BGKYK5

    BGKYK5 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Thanks for the info guys, but it looks like it may not happen after all. The K5 I'm looking at is 230 miles away. My only tow vehicle is my POS rusted out '89 K5, and I don't have a trailer. I don't know if it would make it there and back towing 6000+ lbs. Has anybody been able to fit a K5 on big meats on a U-haul trailer? He wants an extra $500 to bring it to me, and won't go below $2500 for the truck. $3k for a non-runner is too rich for me. Any ideas?
     
  8. fireplug

    fireplug 1/2 ton status

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    Keep looking, a better deal is around the corner!
     
  9. BGKYK5

    BGKYK5 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Anybody pulling an empty trailer from Chattanooga TN to Bowling Green KY and want to do me a *HUGE* favor?
     
  10. W7NB

    W7NB 1/2 ton status

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    Keep looking! I found an 86 in decent enough condition to be a DD that runs and drives for $2500 on Crags list here yesterday - almost bought it to have a 2nd rig but mama said not unless I sold my truck.
     

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