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np203 help

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by skibum, Jun 12, 2000.

  1. skibum

    skibum Newbie

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    hey y'all,
    I'm shure you've all seen this one before, but I haven't been able to find a definite answer...
    Is it okay (or not) to make my '76 with a 203 run in 2wd by just pulling out the front drivesahft? or, actually... since I already did it last week, how long till the whole damn mess blows up on me? how much is that conversion kit anyway? how hard is it to put in?
    anyway... here's *why* i did it, maybe y'all can tell me what's wrong.. driving along the other day, rounding the turn, the truck felt like the t-case was in lock -- when i drove with the wheel cranked, the truck hopped, the tires chirped, and the steering wheel jerked.. I then made shure that the case didn't fall into lock or something... changed into hi and low a couple of times... no improvement....I took it right to the transmission guy... on the way the problem seemed to dissappear a little. when i got there, the mechanic told me that it's not the t-case at all... so what's the deal?
     
  2. Todd78/87

    Todd78/87 1/2 ton status

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    The Milemarker kit is $100.00,,, comes with new hubs,,, I was having my xfer case rebuilt when I did mine and just took the kit to them to have it installed, so I'm not sure how hard it is to do yourself.
    I would think that you could drive around forever without the front driveshaft in without damage.... but not sure.

    Todd 78/87[​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Alaska Bound
     
  3. Blazer79

    Blazer79 1/2 ton status

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    Could it be that te chirping is being caused by a locker in one of the differentials? Maybe you were not told you have one in there.

    Anyway, the kit is about $80 without hubs (or so I've heard), and it's relatively easy to install. Milemaker makes one.

    If you've already removed the front driveshaft and the truck still drives, then the t-case is definitely in a lock position. If that is the case, then the wisest thing to do would be to rebuld the 203. Have you ever replaced the oil in that case? I did and the 20year old oil that came out was rotten. You should replace it with 30 grade engine oil. Maybe that will help.

    <font color=blue>//////
    http://blazer79.coloradok5.com
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  4. DMK

    DMK 1/2 ton status

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    Kit is easy to install. There are two kits one replaces the entire shaft, the other just replaces the spider gears. I did the spider gear kit. The shaft kit would be better for hard use, and it does cost more I think around 250$. my kit was around 100.00$ from summit racing.Also would drain and replace oil when done. Good luck!
     
  5. Jason73K5

    Jason73K5 1/2 ton status

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    I'm ahamed to say it, but I blew my front axle back in '96 and have been running in high-lock ever since. I don't think it'll hurt a bit. Since I've pulled the front driveshaft, I've driven from coast to coast five times, once pulling a 16' trailer and another time pulling an RX-7. I've been running 35's with a 4" lift for a couple of years and the 203 is still going strong. One of these days I've got to get a new front axle and a transmission(case is cracked) and a 205 and a crate motor and a...


    Oh, by the way, I'd pull your diff covers and make sure that the spider gears don't fall out on you, my truck was handling similar to yours before my diff blew and cracked the housing when it went.
     
  6. Eagle86K5

    Eagle86K5 1/2 ton status

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    Mine did that too till I found that the ujoints on the front axels had froze in one direction....

    <font color=green>[​IMG]Eagle86K5[​IMG]<font color=red>
    Masonry...It's a Good Thing
    2B1ASK1
     
  7. skibum

    skibum Newbie

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    yeah, I heard that it might be the u-joints... how do i test to see if that's it?
     
  8. Eagle86K5

    Eagle86K5 1/2 ton status

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    I pulled the axel on mine to find it.I imagine you could jack up the front end and turn the wheels all the way to one side then try to turn the tire with hub ingaged and tranny in neutral. If it does not want to turn freely or turns a bit then sort of binds....change them. And don't make the mistake I did and change just the one, change both...

    <font color=green>[​IMG]Eagle86K5[​IMG]<font color=red>
    Masonry...It's a Good Thing
    2B1ASK1
     
  9. dumbfounded

    dumbfounded 1/2 ton status

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    yeah it sounds like a universal. Universals are not to good at extreme angles just like the front and rear drive shaft. That's why the newer trucks with cv joints are nice. They may not be as strong but can take more abuse at the front wheels when turned. It's like the universal say on the front shaft where there are two back to back this can "bend" at higher deflection w/o trouble. Boat outdrives also use this set up b/c they can turn at high degrees. And when these universal start to wear they can bind. If you take them out and the ends aren't easy to spin then it was hell just trying to turn. Since these don't see much deflection at high speeds "I'd hope not" they won't vibrate like say a rear drive shaft when univ's are wore out the only way you would know is with the bucking or breaking. I did have a F250 with the IFS crap and it did what you were talking about when the hubs were engaged and the wheel was turned hard, It was too much deflection hense the bucking.

    Wasn't me.............
     

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