Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

NP205 slip yoke eliminator

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Goose, Aug 15, 2006.

  1. Goose

    Goose 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    1,127
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    South Central Kansas
    I have a '86 K30 with a 205 and rear slip yoke.
    I also have a non-slip yoke 205 from a 77.
    What can be done to make the 86 non slip yoke and the 77 a slip yoke??
    How much disassembly is involved?
    thanks
     
  2. Jackedup86GMC

    Jackedup86GMC Registered Member

    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2006
    Posts:
    64
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Southeast Texas
    I would think it would be easier to just swap the 205's as a whole between trucks. That wat their is no disassembly required.
     
  3. Goose

    Goose 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    1,127
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    South Central Kansas
    Yes, but the slip yoke one is a round pattern 205 and the other is a figure 8.
     
  4. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2000
    Posts:
    26,976
    Likes Received:
    189
    Location:
    Roy WA
    If it's JUST the output shaft/housing that needs swapped, with both of them on the ground, you can swap them doing essentially nothing else but pulling the output shaft housing off, and pulling the output shaft.

    I've swapped an output shaft before ('91) but it was non-slip for non-slip. I don't know if there are any internal differences, but if I remember my parts manual correctly, there IS a difference in the cases (same year ones) between autolocking and manual hubs. I never spent the time to see which parts were different, but I do know the parts diagrams were annotated like that.
     
  5. Goose

    Goose 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    1,127
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    South Central Kansas
    Hmmm,
    I guess once I take them out of their respective trucks and apart I'll know for sure.
     
  6. 1-tonmudder

    1-tonmudder 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2005
    Posts:
    3,052
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    In a junkyard somewhere
    Unbolt one and bolt the other in it's place.Takes the same bearing and everything.The hardest part is the needle bearing's that go in the back of the shaft.It can be done in the truck,but you better pack the rollers in grease before you try to put it in.I have done it many times and have sold a bunch of them,

    Like right here.
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130017556149
     
  7. Jimbo*

    Jimbo* 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2005
    Posts:
    1,420
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    roswell, new mexico
    Dorian, the difference you refer to applies only to the front output or 4x4 engagement syncronizer ring; most have a ring, but the auto-locking hub models had a clutch system. Rgfparts had one for sale on ebay a while back.
    In short, it doesn't apply to this thread's question.
    All he needs is some grease to hold the needle bearings in place when he puts the shafts back in the case.
    Jimbo

    edit; too slow
    edit again: "rgfparts" is an excellent source for 205 parts, when he has time to list them on ebay.
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2006
  8. 1-tonmudder

    1-tonmudder 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2005
    Posts:
    3,052
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    In a junkyard somewhere
    That's the way mine is.
     
  9. Goose

    Goose 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    1,127
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    South Central Kansas
    Sounds easy then. Thanks a ton.
     

Share This Page