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np208 sye from arizona drivelines

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by stevewix, Feb 16, 2005.

  1. stevewix

    stevewix Registered Member

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    ok, so i had arizona drivelines make me a shaft with the sye (basically a slip yoke with a hole in the end that threads into the output shaft)

    what is the best way to drill and tap this thing? az driveline told me to take off the tailshaft housing and heat the output up with a torch until the end 3/4" starts to glow, then it can be drilled. is it really this easy? can anyone on here shed some more light onto this subject?

    thanks in advance...
    Steve
     
  2. gotmud77

    gotmud77 1/2 ton status

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    I tried everything to drill that shaft. I dont think you would want to heat it up like that but i dont know for sure. I ended up just welding the yoke right to the transfer case. I knew at the time i was going to change tran/transfer setups so it was just a temp. fix. All in All it seems to be a good product just not the right way to do it.
     
  3. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    To drill that shaft all you need is the right drill bit and the right speed.
    Slow is the only way you can do this and you need a drill bit specially for hardened steel.
    I am getting ready to do that and you do not need to get the kit from them, it's just a regular yoke from a fixed yoke th400 that you need. :D
    Then you use the right length driveshaft you can have that from any driveline place.
     
  4. gotmud77

    gotmud77 1/2 ton status

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    not that i dont believe you on drilling that shaft but would you take a pic of it when you get it drilled and post it up. I went threw a bunch of diffent bits high speed,low speed,different coated bits,cheap ones and so on so i did try alot of different ones and nothing worked for me so i hope you have better luck then i did.
     
  5. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    OOps, I'm sorry.

    Anyway, if you must drill into it, DO NOT heat it up. Get a cobalt drill, and lots of cutting fluid, and lots of patience.
     
  6. stevewix

    stevewix Registered Member

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    well, we heated it up with a giant rosebud until just after the end splines started to glow, then let it cool for about an hour. we very carefully (and straight) drilled into the output using a 3/16" pilot, then used a 5/16" and tapped for 3/8" coarse. it went so perfect i was really surprised. i'm not convinced that heating it up made any difference, it was still very difficult.


    as for this-
    "OOps, I'm sorry." -FWP
    i don't know why you would be sorry, i've looked this slip yoke cv driveshaft over with more than a scrutinous eye and i think it's flawless!
    granted it was nice to hear your opinion on heating a hardened output shaft, (i think it sounds stupid too) a. what's done is done, now that i'm reading this post. b. we still had to use a cobalt bit and an assload of cutting fluid so it's not like it turned into butter; and c. time will tell. if it lasts, i've got a relatively inexpensive sye that just needed some elbow grease, if not, who gives a ****?! WORST case scenario it breaks and i've got an excuse to get rid of the POS 208 anyways

    but to bash on someone's work without any stated reason is plain silly.
     
  7. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    I have plenty of reasons:mad: . Do a search. Don't get me started, I get pissed off just thinking about it. Oscar sucks. I'd like to have my 300 bucks back, but I'll never see it. What a waste of my time and money.

    Edit: I'm not mad at you, don't get me wrong. Too many people have gotten screwed from Oscar, and it just isn't right.
     
  8. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    They tell you to heat the shaft????? Wow, another reason that kit is junk IMO. The piece they sent you may be "flawless" but the idea of just drilling your output and bolt on a yoke IS NOT. Whats nice about a real SYE? A bearing supports right behind the yoke for much better strength. With the setup you have, all you have is a seal supporting your yoke.
     
  9. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    It looks like my pics got lost in the forum and photo gallery changeover. I put em back up, for those considering doing business there. Not to mention the USED U-joints he put in the shaft as well (painted to LOOK new).

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  10. ss396

    ss396 Registered Member

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    IIRC the TH400's have the exact same setup. Yoke bolted to the output shaft, with no bearing support other than the bushing and seal. They seem to work just fine, at least the ones that I had.

    I agree though, that heating the shaft like that can't be good, looses the temper in the steel. Maybe it doesn't matter but the spline ends are now mild steel. Maybe an engineer can help here, that I'm not.

    As far as welding it on, how does one disassemble the TC short of cutting the yoke off?

    I did purchase a shaft from them, the welds were good and included new joints. I am not into heavy wheeling yet and am running 10B, it's fine for my application and better than the one I had. In 2 years I will go the 14bff NP241 SYE route and will need a new shaft anyway, so I didn't want to spend a lot of money for one now.
     
  11. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    I agree that a bearing supporting the yoke is better especially when you have side loads on it.
    By having a slip in the shaft it eliminates the the side load on it and there is a bushing at the end so it's not the seal that supports the yoke but the bushing, again I agree a bearing is better than a bushing and that is why I am trying to make a SYE kit from the chevy tailhousing by shortening it and getting the bearing closer to the yoke.
    :D
    As for heating the shaft, I wouldn't do it, but if they are only heating the end 1/2" or 3/4" it should be OK since the yoke should be at least 3-4" long so it will be distributing the load further down the shaft.
    Another thing you can do as well is retreat the shaft after you drill it and tap it.
    But that is more work.
    :crazy:
     
  12. stevewix

    stevewix Registered Member

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    ok, you win. i wasn't trying to be a dick, and i haven't checked the wall thickness, but dammit i wasn't aware that this guy did such ****ty work. the u-joints were all new, it balanced out perfect, and i now have a smooth, vibration free ride. i've only got about 100 flywheel ponies from my lo-mileage hi-hour 6.2, so to be honest i'm not worried about breaking much of anything.

    compared to the stock slip yoke it is better, end of story (IMHO) is it better than a dodge fixed yoke? no. or a 205? hell no. for me, with no power, it makes good enough sense. i'm just hoping that i can use this shaft with a 205 in the future when all else fails.
     
  13. 1-ton

    1-ton 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    This is another picture of an AZ Driveline. Sorry the picture is so small, but it is hard to find a decent image hosting sight for free.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. zx672

    zx672 Registered Member

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    I am glad you are happy with your set up and that is the only thing that matters, but for future reference.... I had a horrible experience with Arizona Driveline. Maybe it was a lack of communication, but to make a long story short, I had to get my bank involved for them to refund my money.

    when you are ready for the 241 SYE kit...take a look these guys...
    http://highangledriveline.com/
     

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