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OH NO I LOST MY BASS

Discussion in 'Audio' started by AntAZBlaz, May 4, 2002.

  1. AntAZBlaz

    AntAZBlaz 1/2 ton status

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    I need help.
    Just want to confirm some things. I was playing my stereo loud while I was parking my truck. I sat and listened to the end of my song, and then turned off the truck. I went back to the truck turned it on and I lost all of my bass both of my 10’s are out. I thought it might be the fuse so I changed it. I checked for voltage at the amp power terminals and I had 12.34V, then I checked for resistance of the speakers and read 4 ohm + at the amps output terminals with out disconnecting them. I switched the VOM to ac and turned up and down the bass control and I got varying amounts of AC voltage like I was expecting. I then hooked a new speaker, in parallel, at the output of the amp. That speaker worked. When hooked up.
    Now here is the question if the speakers are blown should I get a resistance reading at all or should it just read zero. Is there any chance that something else is causing my 10’s not to function correctly?
    anthony
     
  2. Prembird

    Prembird 1/2 ton status

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    are the 10 run in series, parrellel, or stereo to the amp... double check all connections at the amp and on the speakers themselves... being that you did not take the wires off the amp to check for resistance you might be picking up the resistance threw the amp itself... i would pull the subs and check all connections.. disconnect then wires and the subs and test the subs using the subs termanials...
     
  3. AntAZBlaz

    AntAZBlaz 1/2 ton status

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    If that is true then it’s not good news for me because I soldered the connections to my 10’s just to make sure that I would never have to worry about them coming off. Visually I can see the connections at the amp are still there. I have them run in stereo. The thing that gets me is that you do not hear a thing out of them. I have blown a speaker before and it kept on moving like it was trying to play but would sound terrible. Right now I turn the amp on and move the volume up and down and there is nothing happening.
    Anthony
     
  4. Prembird

    Prembird 1/2 ton status

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    ok if you soldered the connections on the speakers thats ok.. just take them off the amp itself and check them there...

    You said you hooked up another speaker to the amp and it runs fine???... if this is the case then you have a problem after the amp and before the speakers... check the speaker cable to see if there are any breaks in it...Let me know what you find out...

    If you hook up another speaker and still get no sound from it then i would suggest taking a seperate sound source and run it into the inputs of the amp.. I use a walkman with line out with conversion cables to test things like this... if you still dont have any sound then double check all wires... check the ground to make sure it is properly grounded... if all of this is ok then the problem is inside the amp...

    If the amp pushes sound when hooked up to an alterative sound input then you should check all wires running back to the radio... if they are all ok then i would suggest you check the radio out to see if it has blown the rca outs...

    also... after taking the speaker wires off the amp you can take a nine volt battery to test to see if the speakers are working correctly or not... This is another test to find out if the subs are bad or not... if they jump.. then they are ok... now dont just hook the wires up to the battery and leave then.. just touch them and see if the speakers jump..

    let me know what you find out..
     
  5. AntAZBlaz

    AntAZBlaz 1/2 ton status

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    Well
    That does it. I was avoiding unhooking my speaker lines from the amp because it’s a bit of a pain but I did it and read 280k ohms. It just seems really strange that I had been playing them up until I turned off the truck fine and then they blew. Now I was running a 100A fuse to that side for the 10’s. I want to avoid this in the future so lets assume that I get another set of 10’s, some day when I can afford them. If I get 300W RMS speakers run them in stereo like I have them now and want to use the fuse as protection for the speakers. I should end up getting a 50AMP fuse by RMS numbers in the power equation P=IE. Where I would add the draw of the two speakers to end up with a system RMS of 600 but is that not enough? In my experience I have found that when I’m using a good amp that I can go past the RMS of the speaker without blowing them. Let me know what you think. I had some MTX’s. I think that I will try the RF Punch HE2’s I see a lot of other 10’s that I could by. But I have the constraints of working with a small sealed enclosure. Let me know what you think I’m also going to turn down the line level on the amp but that was such a lost I’d like to pay for a fuse next time and not a set of 10’s. /forums/images/icons/frown.gif

    Anthony
     
  6. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Sounds to me like you locked up the voice coils. I've done that befor. Try pushing in the speakers themself to see if they'll move. I thought a home sterio was bad one time, turned out I melted the voice coils. New set of Cervin Vega and I was shacking the house again !!!!!!
     
  7. Prembird

    Prembird 1/2 ton status

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    actually from what your telling me the fuse wouldnt have made a difference anyways... you probably melted the voice coils and that is caused by excess heat build up...i.e. you where jamming the subs then shut them off... works the same for engines... after you shut off the engine it will actually get a little hotter before it starts to cool down.. same in voice coils.... the subs movement is what cools the voice coils down.. so if they stop moving then they arent moving any air across the voice coils and they get a little hotter till they start to cool down...

    so adding a fuse to protect them wont help you at all in this situation... i would recommend getting a good set of 10's.. the he 2's are nice... price wise you can get a set of jl 10w0's, image dynamic, alpine type r's, vega's, etc... check into the price and listen to alot of different subs... also go into a couple of local audio shops and ask alot of questions...

    a couple of good questions to ask are...

    1. with this type of enclosure (small sealed) what would you recommend i use..
    2. I have (insert amp here) and it is rated at (insert rms here).... What size, style, model of sub should i be using with this amp..

    those are basic questions you can ask any installer or shop and they will give you a basic answer.. But it will always end up the same way... It is totally up to you and what sounds best to you... they can offer what they have in stock, specials, etc.. but the final dission is up to you.. Also if you are worried about the amount of space you have and what size subs would work best you can check the manufactures web page to see what they recommend and if it will suite you needs... this will narrow down the models you will have to look at and listen to... Also it doesnt hurt to go ahead and listen to other models that do not fit you enclosures.. simply because you can change your enclosure to fit a different sub... so model "A" might fit the enclosures you have now but model "B" that is the same price sounds better but will require you to redue you boxes a little... for the same price...

    Just some things for you to think about and check out... hope this helps you in finding something you will enjoy..
     
  8. AntAZBlaz

    AntAZBlaz 1/2 ton status

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    The MTX’s I had sounded great, I have a RF 1000a2 powering them, I just over spent buying some hooker headers so it will be awhile before I get a chance to get some new subs. I knew when I got that amp, rated at 1600watts, that I had way more power than what was needed. I picked them out because I had heard them in small enclosures and liked their performance. I’ll take a look at those other models that you mention I going to have to stick with a speaker that can fit in my enclosure to much of a pain to even consider changing them out especially when it sounded so good. I could only seriously consider a rebuild if I had workshop setup the only problem with my setup is an inch calculation on either side but for now I can live with it.
    Thanks for all the help I just wanted to make sure that I was not missing anything.
    Anthony
     
  9. Prembird

    Prembird 1/2 ton status

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    well i dont know how your finances are but with that amp you can run the jl audio w3's or if it is going to be a bit before you can get new subs you might want to check out the new w6 v2 from jl audio also.. I havent heard of a sub that can keep up with jl yet... dollar for dollar that is...but check into alot of different subs.. there are alot out there.. also check out Car audio and electronics when they do a speaker comparison..
     
  10. AntAZBlaz

    AntAZBlaz 1/2 ton status

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    what do you think of the jl 10w6's it seems like those would more closely match what i was running before.
     
  11. AntAZBlaz

    AntAZBlaz 1/2 ton status

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    i'm the type of person that would wait until i can get whats best for the situation sometimes it sucks big time having to wait but i'd rather pick whats best then be dissatisfied with something down the line.
    so far i've found them new for $ 180 does that sound right?
    just found a new site that had them for $175
     
  12. Prembird

    Prembird 1/2 ton status

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    well the 10w6 has been discontinued... they are releasing the new version of it... 10w6 v2 very soon... goto jl audios web site and check them out... they are making them like the new w7's... the new w6's are supposed to be a step between the current w3's and there new w7.....

    check out there web site... Oh yea... if you really want to get blown away with sound quality and a ton of boom... see if you can listen to one of the new w7's...
     
  13. AntAZBlaz

    AntAZBlaz 1/2 ton status

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    Hey
    I picked up a new 10” inch woofer.
    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&User_ID=6287231&St=9274&St2=87610905&St3=75834679&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=91986&DID=7

    Of course it does not fit in my case it’s just 3-4mm wider around the lip and it will not fit into the hole that I have the depth is not a problem just the mounting hole is too small. Any way I was wondering if there is any way to repair the MTX’s that I blew out? I thought I saw information before about replacing them. Let me know if that is possible. Otherwise it’s a lot of work ahead for me to replace the lips that held the old woofers. By the way do you know what tools to use to create perfect circles in the sizes I need?
    Thanks for any info.
    Anthony
     

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