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OIL LEAK

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by jbos, Aug 27, 2000.

  1. jbos

    jbos Newbie

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    Can soneone please give me some help? I have a 1988 K5 Blazer with a 5.7 V8. I have oil leaking on the left exhaust pipe just below the bell housing. Is this the rear main seal and if it is, does the engine have to be pulled out of my truck to replace the seal? If anyone knows the answer to this, please respond. Thanks, I appreciate it.
     
  2. fr8train

    fr8train 1/2 ton status

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    I kid you not I had this fixed no less than two hours ago. Rub the surface clean with a rag or rinse w/ degreaser. Double check to see if it is the Oil pressure sender/switch that is leaking. It will be sticking out of the left side of the block just 6-8" over the oil filter. Depending on the how bad the leak it is you should be able to see it come out. Does you pressure gauge read above 60 psi? Or @/below 60 psi? During driving.
     
  3. 76GMCJimmyinAZ

    76GMCJimmyinAZ Registered Member

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    Doesn't sound like the rear main, but if it is, the motor doesn't have to come out- not even the tranny. The local Chev dealer has replaced the rear main in my crate motor (under warranty!) twice in two years. So, I can't tell you what to expect in labor charges because I haven't had any for that job... I'd guess 2-3 hours???

    GUZZLES GAS BUT IT'S FREE AND CLEAR!!!
     
  4. Dave A

    Dave A Registered Member

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    Check the firewall end of the valve cover, mine was leaking from there and dripping down the back of the block. From there it blew or dripped onto the exhaust.
     
  5. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    The '88 engine should have the one piece rear main seal and if this is the case, the engine will have to come out to replace the one piece seal.


    Mike [​IMG]
    See <font color=green>EMMETT</font color=green> -&gt; http://emmett.coloradok5.com
     
  6. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    With the one piece rear main seal you do not have to remove the engine (sorry Mike).[​IMG]You do have to remove the tranny/T-case though. There is a rear main seal retainer that holds the seal in. From what I understand from the service manual there is a special tool for installing the new seal squarely over the crankshaft.
    Removing the engine or removing the tranny/T-case, tough call as to which one is more work.
    Replacing the seal itself is not that hard.
    Its just all the work before and after.


    [​IMG]
     
  7. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    I am mad now for you making tose comments! LOL

    Personally, I would rather raise the motor some rather than wrestling those pigs(t-case/tranny)

    :)

    Mike [​IMG]
    See <font color=green>EMMETT</font color=green> -&gt; http://emmett.coloradok5.com
     
  8. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    C'mon Mike lets take it outside!LOL
    I know what you mean, I just wrestled my SM465/NP 205 out to do a clutch and rear main seal. I think if I had an engine hoist with the height and a better place to do it I would have pulled the motor.
    Later

    [​IMG]
     

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