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Oil Pan rotted and leaky..what can I use?..

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by diesel4me, Dec 4, 2006.

  1. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    My 6.2 diesel has started weeping oil out of its rotted oil pan...:angry1: ..the pan is dented up pretty good too..

    I've had limited success using stuff like J-B Weld,etc in the past on this type of leak..dissapointing results usually,the stuff usually does not adhere well. even if you clean the spot thouroghly,and usually falls off or leaks again in short order....anyone try any of the new "miracle" puttys, or other stuff like J-B Weld and had good results?..

    I know I'll have to either replace the pan or have it welded off the engine eventually--but since winter is just starting and I use my truck to plow,I'd rather not disable it right now..grrrr..everything F***s up at the WORST time,every time..:doah: :(
     
  2. rafterman191

    rafterman191 Registered Member

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    How much oil are we talking here? JB may get you a month if the holes are easy to plug.
     
  3. Pookster

    Pookster 1/2 ton status

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    depends on how much leaks. the two part solid epoxy's work well for plugging holes, but not permenantly. If its rusted, you have severe issues that cannot be fixed by these methods, as you probably have severe rust and weakened metal all along the bottom/sides.

    You can try to weld it shut- but good luck on a super greasy surface. Your better off getting a new pan.
     
  4. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    damm!..

    Yeah,I know the only "real" fix is a new pan..but I dont have 100 bucks for one,or the gaskets right now (merry F'n Christmas,right?)..or the ambition to DO it right now when its 20 degrees outside..:doah:

    I dont expect miracles,but I was hoping there was some newfangled epoxy crap I havent heard of yet,had been invented!..but I also fear if the pan is THAT rusty,that a big chunk will pop off, and empty the crankcase before I realize it,and toast the motor too..right now its just a weep that drips rather slowly,but I fear it will worsen rapidly--especially in the middle of plowing in a big storm..:mad:

    Sometimes I think I must be mentally retarted for living in this hell hole,and watch everything I own be destroyed by road salt..I should have left this place a LONG time ago...:(
     
  5. rafterman191

    rafterman191 Registered Member

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    Yea, a big chunk of ice or snow will pop a major hole if it hits a weak pan.
     
  6. Goose

    Goose 1/2 ton status

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    How about small amount of epoxy to stop the leak, then clean the area around it real good and cut a larger patch out of a pop can and epoxy it on top.
     
  7. bdozeraz

    bdozeraz 1/2 ton status

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    You will have to do some searching but I have seen a product that I think is made by jb weld that is designed specifically for oil pan repair. It uses the oil as a catalyst to cause it to set up.
     
  8. Chevy305

    Chevy305 6 Lug 14bsf Status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    clean off the side of the pan with degreaser, then take an entir tube of RTV and slabber it all over the trouble area with a putty knife so you have about 3" of extra all around the hole.

    I've done fixes like this before and depending on severity of leak depended on the success of the stuff.
     
  9. Cricket

    Cricket 3/4 ton status

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    From the web:

    N-14 Cummins oil pan leakage

    Do you remember the old aluminum oil pans on the small cam engines that would leak engine oil due to cracks around the rear corners? Weekly, we would weld and reinforce these pans to stop the leaking. Then, in 1981, the stamped steel oil pan was released and we thought our oil leaking problems were over.

    Because of the amount of engine noise emitted from the oil pan, Cummins developed an insulation blanket to cover the pan, however, the insulation would retain moisture and sometimes develop rust that would eventually eat through the oil pan. A quick and inexpensive repair is to thoroughly sand or grind the rust and paint from the oil pan in a 6-inch diameter. Thoroughly clean the bare metal with brake cleaner or lacquer thinner to remove any dust or oil. Next, purchase a Swiss fiberglass repair kit from your local auto parts store. Using the angel hair matting — not the fiberglass cloth — mix the resin and hardener according to the directions on the can. You must do this in a heated garage. Fiberglass needs heat to cure. Using a flux brush, apply a coating of resin to the oil pan then a piece of angel hair matting about 1 inch larger than the rust hole, then more resin, tapping it into the angel hair using the flux brush. Then apply another piece of angel hair matting 1 inch larger than the first piece, along with more resin. Continue this process until you have applied about five layers of angel hair matting. Make sure there are no air pockets between the layers. Allow to harden for several hours before installing the oil pan to the engine. That is a $20 oil pan hole repair. If the metal is properly prepared, the fiberglass patch will never come off.

    Or the Hazmat stick type at:

    http://www.spill911.com/p439g96c5/Repairitquik-Epoxy-Putty.html
     
  10. scotto0609

    scotto0609 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Had this same problem with my oil pan. Dained oil then soaked area with varsol/brake cleaner/mek whatever you have. I used a two part epoxy on it but cant remember what it was ,hasnt leaked in 3 years.
     
  11. rafterman191

    rafterman191 Registered Member

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    Fiberglass resin will be around long after planet earth.
     

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