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oil pressure switch

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by nerraw117, Jul 29, 2006.

  1. nerraw117

    nerraw117 1/2 ton status

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    ok so here is how it is. I was trying to replace the oil pressure switch on my tbi engine and somehow the fitting that the oil pressure switch screws into broke off into the block. how does everyone think i can remedy that? ez-out it out? jb weld it, and attatch a t-fitting on the oil pressure sender for the guage and screw the switch in there? or maybe bypass it the switch in general since i have heard it only is used as a backup for the fuel pump relay.
     
  2. sweetk30

    sweetk30 professional hooker Premium Member

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    first off : NO JB WELD EVER! sorry for that outberst. jb weld does not work for that stuff. and it dosnt expand and contract like the other parts of the motor with heat. so it will pop loose over time.

    the peice you broke was most likley brass. anyway i would if possible drill out the hole with the proper size drill bit for taping a 1/8 pipe thread or best bet 1 size smaller for the extra room to spare. then take a 1/8 pipe thread tap and clean up the hole.

    next when all done . diss able the ignition and injectors via the wire plugs. rool over motor till oil comes out of the hole and washes the junk out from the repair.

    install new parts with teflon tape and light pressure with wrench this time. as pipe thread is tapered and seats under the squize of the taper as to length. it is not a bottom out fittment.

    plug wires back in and fire motor. check for leaks and gauge function. then change motor oil and filter asap just to be on the same side.

    any questions just ask . and if you dont think you can fix it 100% i would not want to wast the block and just find someone who will for ya just to be safe.
     
  3. mouse

    mouse 1/2 ton status

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    I would be worried about dropping crap into the block.
    Another possible fix is to find a small flat head screw driver and tap it into the brass. Use a wrench or vice grips to un-screw the remains of the adapter.

    Any pics?
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2006
  4. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    A quality easy out should take it out.. As said, it is more than likely brass and semi-soft, tap the easy out in firmly so it bites well...

    If you do have to drill and tap it, I'd try a left hand bit in it first, more than likely spin that sucker right out...

    I certainly wouldn't recommend JB Weld...
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2006
  5. sweetk30

    sweetk30 professional hooker Premium Member

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    what? how is the oil passage port linked to the lifter valley??????????

    it goes threw all the oil passages from the pump. if it droped in to the lifter valley how would you get oil pressure in the line? as the valley is open to the air.

    if i missed something let me know???:confused:
     
  6. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    my bad, brainfart... That is a direct port... smacked my head too hard last night on the ramp... :doah: :o I'm gonna go edit that...
     
  7. nerraw117

    nerraw117 1/2 ton status

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    correct me if im wrong but the fitting is not in the intake, it is in the actual block. so removing the intake would not help i dont believe. but once again i could be wrong but i thought it was in the actual block itself.
     
  8. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Yes, it is behind the intake in the block... I was having a brainfart thinking the other side was exposed on the underside of that back surface of the block...

    But I just went down and checked a block I have on the stand in the garage, and it is a direct port to the oiling system... no access from the lifter valley..
     

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