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OK gang I almost have my 37gallon tank installed here are some details>>>

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Burt4x4, Mar 5, 2002.

  1. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Update~ I did a test fit and the stock location were NWMP has the tank sit was tight against the rear crossmember and only a few inches away from my D60rear, very close! So I completly remove the rear crossmember and now I can mount it further back almost to the hitch. Next was to get the tank higher up, I have a 3"body lift. I cut off the little 2" angle iron foot that NWMP put on and made 4" replacemnt pieces out of a similar in size angle iron I got from OSH. I had my bud weld them to the tank about 2 1/2" lower and about 2" over tward the rear of the tank. This position will put the new mounting feet smack dab in the center of the two mounting straps & bolts on the frame. I still have to find out if I will need to modify the straps(might have to make them shorter??) I ran out of time so I will have to finnish this story later on this week!!
    I have taken pics of every step I took and will post them tomorrow, I forgot the pic CD on my desk at home/forums/images/icons/frown.gif.......
     
  2. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Burt,

    Yeah I forgot to mention that part about the straps.....obviously if you raise the tank, they are going to be too long. The part that needs to be shortened are the two "angled" parts......

    If you stayed awake during Geometry class, you may remember that to raise the tank 3 inches, you'll need to use the Pathagorean Theorem (a^2 + b^2 = c^2) to determine how much to cut out....the angle is the hypotenuse....so for a 3" lift, you'd calculate (3^2 + 3^2 = c^2)......C = 4.24" If MY math is correct.....just cut 4.25" out of each angled section and re-weld it and you should be perfect.

    -Mr Brown-Nose /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif

    aka
     
  3. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    IIII Yi Yi, Mr Professor is more like it!!!heeheheheheheheheheehehe
    I was looking at Ryan's pics and his straps are a good 2" away from the bottom of the frame so I may be OK??? BUT I would bet the straps are gonna be too close to the frame to beable to really sinch the tank up to the frame nice and tight!!
    I'm thinking I can just cut off the ends of the strap and reform a new end thus making the strap shorter??>>>.........we shal see..
     
  4. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Actually creating the new "bends" would be a lot easier.....just measure down that 4.25" and create a new bend on each side.....drill a couple new holes for the bolts and cut off the excess....!

    Yer a pretty smart feller yourself.....! /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif

    -Mr Professor Brown-Noser

    aka
     
  5. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    hahahLOL
    Yup I do that and let ya know.....
    Thanks Bra
     
  6. Steve_Chin

    Steve_Chin 1/2 ton status

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    Greg, I'm not sure you're applying Pythagoras' theorem correctly. I see where you're getting the constant 3 for part of the equation, but why are you using it twice?

    If Burt's tank hangs below the frame like mine does, the bottom of the tank is ~8.2" below the bottom frame rail. The transverse distance from the side of the tank to the centerline of the strap bolt hole is 2.5". If I were to raise my tank ~2.5", I'd need to shorten the straps somewhat. Here's the math I'd use:

    First, I'd find the square of the length of the strap from the bottom corner of the tank to the bolt hole in the frame:

    8.2^2 + 2.5^2 = 73.49

    Second, take the square root of that to find the current length:

    SQRT 73.49 = ~8.57

    Next, find what the square of the strap length should be with the tank raised 2.5":

    (8.2-2.5)^2 + 2.5^2 = 5.7^2 + 2.5^2 = 38.74

    Fourth, find the square root of that to find the length the strap should be:

    SQRT 38.74 = ~6.22

    Last, find out the amount to shorten the straps by subtracting the fourth result from the second result:

    8.57 - 6.22 = 2.35

    Thus, each end of each strap should be shortened by ~2.35 inches.
     
  7. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Dr. Steve.....


    OH man.....the "professor" is checking my math...! /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif

    My thinking was that since the "angled" parts of the strap were at about a 45-degree angle.......that the 3" of "rise" equates to "3" of "run".....so it would basically be defining an imaginary triangle with the two short sides each at 3 inches....the hypotenuse is the "physical" part of the strap that I was attempting to calculate.....

    BOY, I sure hope I didn't blow this.......I'll NEVER hear the end of it!!! /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

    I think I understand the way you are doing your calcs.....the triangle is defined as:

    Side 1 - The distance from the lower corner of the tank straight up to the bottom of the framerail
    Side 2 - The distance from the side of the tank to the factory mounting hole for the tank strap.
    Side 3 - The diagonal from that mounting hole, back DOWN to the lower corner of the tank.

    Is that right?.....If so, I think I like your way better! /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
     
  8. Sledge

    Sledge Registered Member

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    I love hearing fellow engineers talk. Doesn't matter we do, some of the "geek" always makes it to the surface. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  9. bassplayer4x4

    bassplayer4x4 Registered Member

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    Had you not wanted to get the extra clearance and re welded the tabs would this have been a simple replacement job? I am considering buying one of those tanks, as my stock one has a leak and is my daily driver filing up twice a week is terrible. But I don't own a welder. Was the cross member removal necessary or just part of your enhancement.

    Thanks,
     
  10. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I can tell you that yes it is a "pretty simple replacement job".
    I bought one of these NWMP 37 gal tanks and installed it a while back. I also reccomended it to Greg72 and Burt4X4 giving them 2 thumbs up on the tank.

    It may be a little pricey, but money is no thing when it comes to our Blazers. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif

    The crossmember removal is not necessary... unless you want to move the tank up further with a body lift like these guys are doing.
    I found that it rubbed just a little on that crossmember and made an annoying squeek. So I went to OSH and purchased some 1/8" thick rubber sheet and cut it into the appropriate sized small strips and sandwiched it in between the tank and the crossmember as a cushion to stop the squeek.
    I've had mine in for over a year and love it! No problems at all.
    Just one thing less to worry about./forums/images/icons/smile.gif

    <a target="_blank" href=http://communities.msn.com/Ryans1972Blazer/picsofryansblazer.msnw?Page=4>You can check out pic's of my install HERE.</a>
     
  11. Steve_Chin

    Steve_Chin 1/2 ton status

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    As Ryan said, it's a pretty straight-forward job. I have a 40 gallon tank (the previous owner told me it was dealer-intstalled), but I don't know if it is the Aero (looks kind of like it, but it's missing the ears that stick out of the sides and prevent the tank from rubbing on the underside of the body). I took it out to repair my fuel sender and put it back in. It was a bit of a job, but not impossible.
     

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