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OK I need some motor advice for a block I have sitting in the garage

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by jjlaughner, Jan 14, 2004.

  1. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    I have a 93 long block, I know its good and runs. It actually needs the crank turned and new bearings.... SO,

    What is the shortest way to a 383?
    Scat Crank and different rods, with new bearings?
    Maybe hone the cylinder walls and put in new piston rings while they are out?
    I'm trying avoid the machine shop with the block, I might have the heads milled magnafluxed new seals and a 3angle valve grind... or not do head work now and save for vortecs?
    This is a extra motor I have (its the block, heads oil pan and valve covers, no accessories or intake). This will strickly be a just incase motor.
     
  2. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Shortest way to 383 is to use a stroker crank and 5.565" rods with stock pistons. The other way, which is considered much better, is to use stock 350 rods with stroker pistons designed for this combo.

    Don't spend any money on a GM head. Get yourself a set of aftermarkets which are available anywhere from $550 on up.
     
  3. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Just remember no matter how you go about it you will need to rebalance the engine.
     
  4. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    350 block, 400 sbc crank, stock 5.7" rods, special 383 pistons aftermarket, get some iron eagle or similar heads, get them for cc to match what pistons you get so that you get the CR you want/need, around 9.0 or 9.5 would be great for pump gas and still be fun /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
     
  5. SUBFAN

    SUBFAN 1/2 ton status

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    Get an aftermarket internally balanced stroker crank, this will save you the added cost of a new harmonic balancer and flexplate.

    I would stay with the factory rods and get suitable pistons. I would at least have the block tanked and magnufluxed and get the clearances checked. Might want to have the rods resized also.

    It would be terrible to get that new crank wiped out because of a shortcut....

    If you want some 5.56" rods, let me know....
     
  6. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    If you are getting this far into a motor, I wouldn't try and "shortcut" around the machine shop work. What's $180 for boring and $100-200 for pistons if the rings never seat because the cylinder walls are too tapered?

    You might be able to get away without having it bored, but even having it checked by a machine shop can't hurt. A "just in case" motor should either be a super cheap stock rebuild, or something that is built right that you don't have to worry about IMO.
     
  7. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    350 block, 400 sbc crank, stock 5.7" rods, special 383 pistons aftermarket, get some iron eagle or similar heads

    [/ QUOTE ]

    A 400 crank will not fit into a 350 block without modifications. The mains are bigger. It will need to be turned down, which costs more than just buying an aftermarket cast stroker crank which are now available for around $200 the last time I checked.
     
  8. bablazer73

    bablazer73 1/2 ton status

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    I would check on some of the "kits" before you get to deep into that block. That has a 1 piece rear main. Most of the strocker cranks I have seen are for the 2 Piece rear main blocks. Either way, rebalance is a MUST! And i agree with heads. There are so many aftermarket heads that doing anything with the stock heads would cost more.
     
  9. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    They make a kit to put a 2 piece rear main crank in a 1 piece block, however, cheap stroker cranks are available for both.
     
  10. TopOff

    TopOff 1/2 ton status

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    I am not familiar with the later blocks, but don't you still have to have the block clearanced (pan and near the lifter valley) for the longer stroke?
     
  11. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    hmmm /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif Its going to sit, I'm unemployeed and there are no shops around here that I would trust not to royally screw me on any kind of machine work or mods. I normally do anything that gets done myself.

    $100 here and $200 there is not at all possible right now for a motor thats going to sit...
    Just to keep the thread going though... list the mods that need done...
     
  12. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Hmmm, I thought the hot setup was LONG rods on those strokers? Oh well, what do I know, I've not been paying attention to the Hi-Po stuff since I quite racing my GTO back around 87 or so...
     
  13. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Hmmm, I thought the hot setup was LONG rods on those strokers? Oh well, what do I know, I've not been paying attention to the Hi-Po stuff since I quite racing my GTO back around 87 or so...

    [/ QUOTE ]

    The hot setup is probably 6" or longer rods for those strokers, but I doubt anyone would want to build such a motor for a truck.

    Nobody really builds the 5.565" rods motors anymore as the rod angle sucks and the stroker pistons aren't that expensive anymore since everyone and their brother has a 383.
     
  14. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I doubt anyone would want to build such a motor for a truck.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I did. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif The only thing that detered me was that with 6" rods and a 3.75" stroke, the wrist pin location was well up into the oil rings. From a longetivity stand point, I chose to run 5.7" H-beams instead.

    There isn't anything voodoo or mystical about 6" rod 383's. With the right set-up, they can be quite a powerhouse for truck.
     
  15. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    In all honesty, a shortcut usely ends up costing more in the long run. I'd atleast call a reputable machine shop and talk to them about building a 383 stroker. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif
     
  16. Hardcore

    Hardcore 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Get an aftermarket internally balanced stroker crank, this will save you the added cost of a new harmonic balancer and flexplate.


    [/ QUOTE ]

    So, are you saying a crank like a Scat cast 383 crank will let me keep my 350's stock flex plate and balancer? I've never heard that before. I thought you always had to use the FP and balancer out of a 400 /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  17. SUBFAN

    SUBFAN 1/2 ton status

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    They make both internally and externally balanced cranks for this....The price difference between the two is nil....Getting an internally balanced crank should allow you to reuse what you have if you so desire.... /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    I will be doing the opposite with the 400, and getting an internally balanced crank for it, then getting the correct balancer and FP for that....
     
  18. Hardcore

    Hardcore 1/2 ton status

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    Sweet, so internally balanced cast 383 crank.

    I looked at the Scat ones and the only ones that are internally balanced are for 6" rods /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I want to keep my 5.7" ones. ANyone know a part # for a cast crank that is internally balanced for a 1 pc seal block? /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     

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