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Ok, whats the trick to removing a 14bFF hub to spindle seal?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by BorregoK5, Feb 18, 2002.

  1. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    Soooo, whats the trick to getting these seals out of the hub? Mine are surely siezed in there and wont budge, and I'd like to avoid the BFH until all hope is lost... any tips?

    Sooo close to having the disk conversion done...

    I started with nothing and I still have most of that left! - <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/borregok5> Pictures</a>
     
  2. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Those seals are pretty nasty to get out sometimes. If you are careful it is sometimes easier to use a punch from the outer side and get it out that way. If you have a slide hammer puller that is the best method, just get the screw started and slide hammer it out.
     
  3. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    I was thinking a slide hammer would be perfect for this.. but, alas I have loaned mine out to the void. I'll keep going with the punch and see if I can get any head way... looks like the Big F@!#$@% Hammer might be my only resort. I hate working on axles.. old gear oil stinks!

    I started with nothing and I still have most of that left! - <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/borregok5> Pictures</a>
     
  4. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    Yah gotta git ugly with 'em.
    I very-carefully use a chisel to try to cave in one side of the seal w/o scorring the hub in the prosess. Once it's caved in a bit i use a seal puller and "Tap it out, Tappity, tap, tap". A pry-bar has also worked.
    Some people beat 'em out from the front. I've never tried that, I think the wheel-bearing might be damaged.

    Put the hub up-side down in the drum or a wheel to hold it while you work on it, being carefull not to damage the studs.

    Use emery cloth to clean up any damage to the seal/hub surface. Inspect the area for exsesive scoreing and detirmin if a sealent should be used.

    I like to pack the new seals full of wheel-bearing grease. Inorder to keep the seal spring in-place during installation.
    Also lubricate the seal lip, if it's the style that seal against the spindal.

    Thats aboat it...

    <font color=white>.</font color=white>Eric
    <font color=white>.</font color=white>Twizted
    <P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by Twiztid on 02/18/02 07:09 PM.</FONT></P>
     
  5. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    I looked into getting at the seal from the opposite side but the bearing was in the way. After examinig the new seals I resorted to the BFH and a ball joint spanning fork under one side of the lip. A couple of carefully planned pivot hits and one side came up and out (Whew). Since the seal covered the hub from the fork, no damage! Thankfully my studs are all removed for the disk conversion so I'm going to continue. Good idea with the grease by the way. Countdown to 14bFF disk ... T minus seven 1/2" x 2" fine thread bolts for the backing plates [​IMG]. Thanks for the help guys!

    I started with nothing and I still have most of that left! - <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/borregok5> Pictures</a>
     
  6. Rebel88

    Rebel88 1/2 ton status

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    hey twiztid you stole my quote...[​IMG]

    i just finished pulling my seals out of my 14 like a week ago...the ole chisel and hammer worked for me...but like they said be careful not to score the hub...

    Later

    Just tap it in...tappity tap tap...
     
  7. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, hope ya' don't mind. I dig the sig.

    <font color=white>.</font color=white>Eric
    <font color=white>.</font color=white>Twizted
     

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