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Okay round two, more Questions**UPDATED PROBLEM FOUND***

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Okiemuddog, Jun 10, 2003.

  1. Okiemuddog

    Okiemuddog 1/2 ton status

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    Okay replaced sender,$7, and grounded wire. Okay when I ground the wire nothing happens, but if I go to the back of the cluster and ground the gauge it pegs out. I can't figure this out, I am thinking that the prob is in the ribbon wire on the back of the cluster. Would I be better and save myself the trouble of trying to figure this one out and just go buy one of the add-on gauges that mount under the dash?



    Krennen






    Like the title says. I am trying to figure out why my temp gauge is not working. It just sits a 100 degrees all the time, I stuck the sender in a pot of boiling water and the gauge never moved, I am replacing the sender, but wondered if there was a trick to test the gauge to make sure it is working.

    Thank in advance

    Krennen
     
  2. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Re: Is there a way to test a temp gauge?

    I'd really hold off on replacing that sender.

    What happens when you ground the wire going to the sender? If your gauge pegs out, THEN you are correct, it's the sender.
     
  3. bigblock44k5

    bigblock44k5 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Is there a way to test a temp gauge?

    im with dyeager, diconnect wire at sender and the gauge should go to zero. ground it on something and it should peg high.
     
  4. Okiemuddog

    Okiemuddog 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Okay round two, more Questions

    Thanks for the replies, I have some more qustions now, so
    bump, Bump
     
  5. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Re: Okay round two, more Questions

    [ QUOTE ]
    Would I be better and save myself the trouble of trying to figure this one out and just go buy one of the add-on gauges that mount under the dash?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    In my opinion, no. You do better off in the long run figuring out how things work and fixing them, than just bypassing a problem.

    Printed circuit is pretty easy to deal with, you look at the contacts (the clip in pieces) then you trace the copper strips back to where the connector is. I'll admit, the way the copper is where the connector plugs in for the entire cluster is pretty cheesy. Sometimes the copper leads will "pull up" off the plastic, get bent to the side, and when the plug is reinserted, it no longer works.

    If all the above turns out good, find the wire on the cluster connector that is for the sending unit, and check continuity between that end and the one in the engine bay. If you don't have continuity, the wire is broken somewhere.

    I don't mean for people to get defensive of their aftermarket gauges, but not trusting them is pretty pointless. Most of them still work after 30 or so years, which means they were made well. All of my gauges appear to be accurate, and do still work. One point to be made of ANY gauges though, is that they are relative, unless you have verified independently its accuracy. If I'm not clear on that, if your volt gauge sits at 12V during normal operation, then drops to the 8 volt range, you know you have a problem. It doesn't matter if 12V is REALLY 13V, as long as the gauge responds when there is a change. Oil pressure, temp, voltage, all are that way.

    As to electrical versus mechanical, some magazine just did a test, the electrical gauges performed just as well as mechanical.

    I'm also a huge fan of keeping things as stock as possible, so I'm a little biased in the approach I suggest. There are usually better ways to spend money though, which is why I don't recommend replacing parts if you haven't tested them first. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
     
  6. chevyracing

    chevyracing 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Okay round two, more Questions

    If you put any type of sealer on the sender it would prevent it from having a ground and not working.

    Putting the sender in boiling water would not do anything because the sender did not have a ground. When you put the sender back into the block make sure the threads are clean and do not use any type of thread sealer on it.

    I have run into this very problem several times with people and what I mentioned always seems to be the issue.
    John
     
  7. Okiemuddog

    Okiemuddog 1/2 ton status

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    Well, I found the problem. I pulled the gauge cluster nad traced the printed circuit, apparently the PO had gouged it with a screwdriver at one time breaking the copper. So, I ended up buying an aftermarket undash gauge VS. replacing the printed circuit. Thanks for the help. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Krennen
     

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