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Old member... new question

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by ArrowheadK5, Oct 8, 2004.

  1. ArrowheadK5

    ArrowheadK5 1/2 ton status

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    Hey all. I used to frequent this site a couple of years back (though I never did go "orange" and become a REAL member) when I had my 87 K5 and dreams of building her up. But then college and a girlfriend happened, and well, you know how that goes.

    The Blazer died and my 87 K20 ( looked just like this, actually -- /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif)was traded to my dad for a 96 Ford Taurus (gas mileage mattered all of the sudden!).

    Now the girlfriend's gone and I'm into guns. I shoot, hunt, collect, etc. I don't see myself working on a truck as a hobby right now. BUT, I realized last weekend that I can only fit one dozen goose decoys in my Taurus at a time! And its off-road capabilities are severely lacking.

    What I want is a pickup, half-ton, with four wheel drive, that won't break down on me every other week. The Taurus has been one thing -- reliable. But even though I have very little money, I want a truck in a bad way.

    I'm thinking either ex. cab or long-box, but not both. Something in an early 90's chevy would be ideal; I don't mind a manual transmission. A 350 would be nice because they're ubiquitous and I simply won't abide a V6 in a pickup. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif No rust would be really nice, but I'm in MN.

    The reason I've come to you gents is that as I look around, I want to try and eliminate the lemons from my search as much as possible. What sort of things can I check? Is it a good idea to have a mechanic friend check things like compression etc. before I buy? Any years/models/variants/features I should avoid?

    No info is too obvious. I have few tools and a little knowledge. Just enough to be dangerous, I guess. Any tips are welcome and encouraged! Just reading around the forum started to remind me of the good-natured folk here and temped me to search out K5s again... I WILL HAVE ONE someday.

    Thanks a lot guys.

    Tom /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    P.S. anybody have any old, useless military rifles collecting dust that they want to sell? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
     
  2. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Is it a good idea to have a mechanic friend check things like compression etc. before I buy?

    [/ QUOTE ]
    if you have someone you trust that is willing to do that it would be a very good idea. also when looking at a used vehicle look at the oil for both the motor and tranny. they should not be NEW oil in either but some people will do a motor oil change before they sell it but VERY FEW people will change the tranny fluid when selling unless they are trying to hide that the old fluid was burnt or bad.
     
  3. ArrowheadK5

    ArrowheadK5 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks mudhog. I don't actually have any mechanic friends but I know a few guys who would probably look at it for me.

    As I look around, it seems I'm going to have to spend somewhere aroung $5K for a nice, clean truck. Does this seem about right?

    Are there any years/variants I should avoid?

    On a sad note,
    My buddy, a lifelong Chevy guy, recently sprung for a 2000 F150! I couldn't believe it. He will be getting crap for that forever.

    Thanks again everyone. I enjoy lurking around the forum, even if I don't have a blazer any more. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

    Tom
     
  4. bigblock44k5

    bigblock44k5 1/2 ton status

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    Definetly get someone to look at it with you. If you cant, tell him you want to take the truck to a shop to have it checked out. They will do it for free if they think you will get it fixed there. Just remember it may be old and there will be the usual bearings, ujoints, and steering componets that may have to be changed due to normal wear. Check around the steering box for frame cracks, small ones are pretty much the norm on these trucks, just make sure it is not severe.
     
  5. hi pinion

    hi pinion 3/4 ton status

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    Dont forget to check ,if its a 700r4 tranny,make sure its not slipping etc, that little avenue cost me 1500.00 for a good re-build /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gifIf i had it to do over again, i would get a good ol manual /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  6. ArrowheadK5

    ArrowheadK5 1/2 ton status

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    Okay. I'm sorry for all the newbie questions but you guys have been very helpful.

    I'm looking at a couple trucks. I don't know a lot about them yet, but just based on this stuff, tell me what you think.

    92 half ton, 4x4 auto. Clean, straight, original paint as far as I can tell. Topper, reg cab long box. 106K miles, asking $4000.

    96 half ton, 4x4 manual. Clean, straight body, possibly new paint. Ext. Cab, short box, large aftermarket wheels and tires. 165K miles, asking $4759.

    I'm thinking that a pavement-pounded '96 with that many miles might be "rode hard and put away wet." Not sure if I want to touch that one. But it is really sharp and, if in good shape, exactly what I am looking for.

    The 92 is more reasonable, I guess. But 106 is still a lot of miles. And an ext cab and a stick would be more fun.

    I don't want something I have to put several more thousand into just to make it thruogh the winter. But man am I sick of a car in the snow.

    Come on, you guys are supposed to be the little devils on my shoulder telling me to "go for it!" /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

    Thanks again...

    Tom
     
  7. bandit1

    bandit1 Registered Member

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    if there's one thing i know its used vehicles. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif my brother in law has a BADASS 96 small box ext cab chevy with 3in body lift and 33's its got the automatic though. if i were you i'd see which one shifted smoother. but the '96 definetly sounds like a deal.

    I drive a '94 fullsize i bought back in March with a 3in body and 33's for $4200 it has 170k on it but runs like a champ EXTREMELY reliable, and a great wheeler /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif

    by the way at 100k the truck is just gettin broke in.( and its a hell of alot cheaper than one with 80k on it /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  8. k20

    k20 3/4 ton status

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    the 96 should be vortec (think vortec started 95) and should be tpi (or mpi or whatever the heck it is). The 92 will be non vortec and tbi injected. Very slightly easier to work on, but less power.
     
  9. kyser_soze

    kyser_soze 1/2 ton status

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    I had a 95 non-vorted I now own a 98 Vortec. I am deffinatley happier with the vortec.MORE power runs smoother. About the only thing I don't like about the difference is the 4 o2 sensors on the 98. The 96 may have fewer that I do not know. Also if you wnt to modify the 96 you can use a hyper-tec programer where you can change performance top speed tire size transmission shift points transmission firmness, axel ratios, with the programer. The earlyer years you would have to change chips by changing them in the computer and buying seperate calibrators for the transmission speed sensor. Go with the 96. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  10. mr_beer

    mr_beer 1/2 ton status

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    The vortec engine started in 96. My wife had a 95 1500 2wd with a non vortec 350 in it, my 96 (vortec model 350) would run cicles around it. Hated to trade my truck in but needed a heavier truck. Cummins rule /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif I would get the vortec truck alot stronger motor /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
     
  11. mr_beer

    mr_beer 1/2 ton status

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    I think the vortec has 50 more horsepower than the earlier model non-vortec trucks /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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