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OMG - And I thought 10b steering arms were rough! Rear Shackle Removal

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by KRAZIE87K5, Jun 25, 2002.

  1. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Sweet Jesus! I have been trying to remove the rear shackle (NOT THE BRACKET), and the bolts that are attaching the shackle to the bracket are NOT wanting to come out. Suggestions from someone who has done this? I bent a 6" C-clamp trying to press them out! /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif So I am quickly running out of ideas....

    -Dan
     
  2. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Sawzall! /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
     
  3. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Never met a sawzall blade that could take out a 1/2" grade 8 bolt! Damn this is going to get pricy quick I think....

    Any other secrets?

    -Dan
     
  4. marv_springer

    marv_springer 1/2 ton status

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    dynamite.. /forums/images/icons/grin.gif ??

    I say take the trusty grinder to 'em.

    Marv
     
  5. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Hmmm grinder... its been so long since I played with the grinder I almost forgot I had one! /forums/images/icons/wink.gif I'll give that a shot! BRB... /forums/images/icons/smirk.gif

    -Dan
     
  6. four_by_ken

    four_by_ken 1/2 ton status

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    Grinder or a torch.

    And beat the living hell out of them with a nice hammer.

    Ken H.
     
  7. Butch

    Butch 1/2 ton status

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    I got mine to turn with an impact and as they turned I put oil on them. Spin them about 100 revolutions with the impact and then angle the socket on the bolt head and pull while it is spinning and they will unscrew themselves but they will be very very hot when the come out. /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     
  8. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I've had that problem before. /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif

    I used a reciprocating saw to cut the bolts. It was about the only way I could get them out since I did not have a torch on hand.

    Sure sucks that those steel sleeves rust to the bolts on these GM trucks. /forums/images/icons/frown.gif Makes removing most of them a PITA!! /forums/images/icons/mad.gif
     
  9. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    OKAY - well now I have bolts without heads on them! /forums/images/icons/confused.gif I have been using a 3lb sledge, and an old 1/4" extension to pound on it... NOT moving. What's my next step?

    -Dan
     
  10. Pookster

    Pookster 1/2 ton status

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    Turn the impact gun full force and give em hell. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

    if that dont work... impact it again, and use a screw driver to pry at the same time. (dont forget your safety gear). if that STILL dont work.... Grind away. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

    i never met a Sawzall that couldnt cut through grade 8 bolts though. Try a 14 tooth metal blade. I cut through 3 feet of 2" box tubing (lengthwise!) in under 8 minutes.
     
  11. BIGJ

    BIGJ 1/2 ton status Author

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    Step 1: Use liberal amounts of penetrating oil. WD40 or Liquid Wrench work well. Apply often.

    Step 2: Hit bolt with BFH, many, many, many, many times. A punch will also help if you don't want to mess up the threads on the bolt.

    Step 3: If it doesn't come out, see step 1.

    See, it's really a simple, 3 step process /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

    Have fun /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

    BIGJ
     
  12. BIGJ

    BIGJ 1/2 ton status Author

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    Doh! Guess I type slow. That's why I don't like to cut the heads, you can't turn them with a ratchet when they get loose.

    Guess all you can use now is the BFH /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif

    I had the same problem with mine, it was a pain in the a$$.

    BIGJ
     
  13. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Damn... I was trying to turn and pry, turn and pry... but that damn sleeve is SERIOUSLY stuck in there. I think that I will bring out the 3/8" extention, and the 10lb sledge! /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif /forums/images/icons/grin.gif Wish me luck!

    BTW - I'm pounding them in towards the tank... I was too lazy to drop the tank! /forums/images/icons/blush.gif /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif Think that's okay?

    -Dan
     
  14. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Dan, if you ground the heads off, and they still won't budge, you are gonna have to use a sawz-all to cut just inside the mount by the bushing. /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif

    It will help if you cut the nut side of the bolt since you have the head ground down and if you grind the nut side, you will be able to shorten the bolt just short enough to slide it back and down to get them out. /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

    To make the job go even faster, cut on both sides of the bushings on each side of the spring. This will guarantee the damn thing will fall right out. /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
     
  15. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Sawzall time. I had to do that with one. You being in the rust belt I bet it's really rusted into the sleeve. Grease the snot out of the new bolt. You probably going to have to sacrafice the sleeve on the bushing. Replace them with polly.
    The fun doesn't stop when you get it out. Cause then your going to have to burn the bushing out ahd hack saw a slip in the sleeve to get it out.
     
  16. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    thatk30guy is all over it.
    wonder why the thing rides rough?
     
  17. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    I already bought the ORD greasable bushing kit for the rear... but I will have to wait more... my little bushing and Zero Rate order is invisible over there. They are too busy making doublers to get mine out quick. Been waiting for 1 week already... and they seem to think that I will be waiting a few more days... /forums/images/icons/frown.gif But I was happy to learn that I get ALL the bushings to replace everything in the rear!

    -Dan
     
  18. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    Hey Dan, i just went through this on my k20.
    Major pain in the ass.
    I had two bolts rust welded to the inner sleeve and I, like you, ground off the head and the nut and was left with the center that was still rust welded to the sleeve.
    I took the sawzall (and about 6 blades total) and cut threw the bolt right where it enters the leaf spring. Yes, it took a long time and yes those are grade 8.
    Then, I did it to the other side.
    Very time consuming, sorry I don't know of a better way. I too got the biggest hammer and chisel that I could find and it laughed at them. I managed to hit my hand a couple of times and that hurt a hell of a lot, but that's another story.
    Give those bolts hell, they deserve.
    -- Mike
     
  19. efilnikufecin

    efilnikufecin 1/2 ton status

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    i used a ball joint press to get them suckers out.it worked like a charm.
     
  20. Sammy

    Sammy 1/2 ton status

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    Done that very same thing this week. I have an 88 and they were pretty stuck too. This is what I did.

    First lots of WD40. Then a wrench with a very big arm and just put a hydr. jack under that. Hey they turn!!! Uh... oh.... the metal tube just turns with the bolt in the rubber. Then I heated it all up a bit. Then the final move that did it was welding a bolt to the shackle bolt so that a slide hamer could be attached. Rammed it right out.

    But I must warn you. I had te grind through one bolt on the fron of the leafspring. And a sawzall will not do the trick, or take too much time. Grade 8 is just too much!

    Hope you get them out soon, I know the frustration.
     

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