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OMG! My bedside fell off!

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by botboy, Jun 4, 2006.

  1. botboy

    botboy 1/2 ton status

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    With a little help, of course :haha:

    Today me and a couple buddies pulled off the (very rusty) drivers side bedside from my '71 K5. Took us around 2 hours total, 2 guys working and one bull****ting. a few notes:

    1) The matco man sold me a matco brand spot-weld cutter, 2 extra cutting blades and an extra guide pin in a kit for just under $60. Definitely one of the best tool purchases I've made recently. Only thing I would have changed would be that I should have started with a corded drill (the cordless went dead after about 4 spot welds), and to upgrade the cordless drill I was using to a hammer-drill or something heavier that has two handles. The instructions with the matco kit suggested a punch for marking a spot for the center pin, but I found that it works fine as long as you start slow with light pressure to cut a small ridge into the metal, and the bit will stay in that as long as it made a full 360* cut for the full cut.

    2) The factory assembly manual is good for seeing where/how the factory welded and assembled things. Definitely worth the $30 or so I bought mine off ebay for.

    3) I used an electric grinder to separate the arc welds between the bedside and rear sill, and the 2 between the bedside and door striker plate panel, but a cutoff grinder and 2-3" blade probably would have made less carnage while getting the job done.

    4) tightening fasteners to snap them off is faster and easier than attempting to remove them by loosening on a 35 year old truck.

    5) on the rear sill bolts, make sure to knock them out after snapping them off, or you'll bend up the bottom of the metal tube the taillight mounts into when removing the bedside.

    6) The spotwelds on inside (behind the front pair of seats) are far easier to remove if the roll bar is removed

    The eventual goal of this work (I'll try and post up pics tomorrow, I left the digi at home and came to a buddies to chill) is to replace the entire rear sill and patch up the bed floor as necessary. There's a host of other items that also need to be replaced, but for now I'm going to start with the rear sill and bed floor, replace rocker boxes and cover panels, inner/outer rockers and front cab supports before the bedsides actually make their way back onto the truck.
     
  2. botboy

    botboy 1/2 ton status

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    Pics...see below:
    Axleswap1 is a pic from shortly after I brought it home, 6 lugs in front, no axle in back

    Axleswap 53 is from after the '76 Chevy 2500 axles went under, D44 8-lug disk in front, 14BFF in back and some 16" american racing rims

    Bedrepair29 & Bedrepair24 are after I removed the bedside...more pics (& progress) to come...

    axleswap1.jpg

    axleswap53.jpg

    bedrepair29.jpg

    bedrepair24.jpg
     
  3. packer

    packer Registered Member

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    bed floor

    what are your plans for the rear bed floor at the tailgate? Mine looks just as rusted as yours and patch panels do not match ,plus you can't get that taper at the tailgate like the factory did. Also my floor is rusted around the rear wheelwells.
     
  4. botboy

    botboy 1/2 ton status

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    A body man suggested to me that I uniformly cut the back bed floor across the entire width when I am welding in the new bed floor, and after plug-welding it to the new rear cross sill, using a body hammer to lightly fold the taper as close to the factory look as possible.

    Eastwood has bevel roller that has perked my interest though, perhaps the thing could be tweaked to appropriately match the bend in the factory sheetmetal. Or maybe goodmark or some other sheetmetal supplier could make a patch panel with the bevel built in, but I wouldn't hold out for that...

    I'll be posting up pics as I repair the rear floor under the wheel tubs...
     
  5. 3 on the tree

    3 on the tree 1/2 ton status

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    Doesn't a pickup bed use the same pattern floor and taper????
     
  6. botboy

    botboy 1/2 ton status

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    More progress...pulled the other bedside off of the truck. Hopefully this weekend I'll get to removing the paint on top and starting to weld in patch panels. Pictures below, of the truck sans any bedsides, and the bend/rusty areas below the wheel tubs & bedside flanges:

    DSCF0001.JPG

    DSCF0003.JPG

    DSCF0007.JPG
     
  7. botboy

    botboy 1/2 ton status

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    I believe so, however as far as I know, nobody sells bed patch panels that actually have the taper (as used to refer to the bevelled edge that goes over the back cross sill) so they have to be fabbed somehow...
     
  8. 3 on the tree

    3 on the tree 1/2 ton status

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    I see a pickup in the background of your pics. Cut the parts you need out of that bed, or find a JY bed and section it out.:D
     
  9. botboy

    botboy 1/2 ton status

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    That's my old 72 cheyenne, sold as of december of last year (in other words, too late, and even if it wasn't, too rusty). While I could certainly find and section some pickup parts, I don't especially want to cut any more old metal up than I have to, and it would be nice to not have to scrounge junkyards for old stuff any more than I have to, I'd like to be able to bend in that curve without messing with sectioning in a ton more sheetmetal.
     
  10. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    This thread is starting to look a lot like material that belongs in the "CANCER SUPPORT" Thread.... :thumb:
     

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