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on board hot water

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by popafink, Feb 18, 2003.

  1. popafink

    popafink Registered Member

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    Location:
    Great MOAB UTAH
    /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gifYou can use 12 inches of 2" copper tubing and 16 inches of ½” copper tubing, two 2” copper caps, four brass ½” pipe x ½” barbed fittings, and a propane soldering kit, which can be found at some hardware stores like Eagle or Lowes.

    The plan would be to solder the 2” caps onto a 12” piece of the 2” tubing.

    Next drill a hole in each cap, dead center and insert and center a 16” piece of the ½” tubing.

    Next solder the ½” tubing where it comes out of each cap.

    Next drill a hole on the side of each cap and solder a brass ½” barbed fitting into each hole.

    You will have to solder a barbed fitting to each protruding piece of ½” tubing also.
    Run the engine coolant through the ½” tube (tube side) and the fresh water through the 2” pipe (shell side).

    You now have a simple heat exchanger.
     
  2. Poohbair

    Poohbair 1/2 ton status

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    Location:
    Ellensburg, WA
    there was a Toyota in 4wheeler a while back that had a hot water shower in it. He had a small pump, an intake hose that you would throw in the creek. Copper tubing was wrapped around the exhaust and soldered together to keep from ratteling. The water was pumped into the copper tubing and then was hot by the time it came out. He said that he had to add a standard faucet so that he could add some cold to the mix!!!
     
  3. Pookster

    Pookster 1/2 ton status

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    Aint nobody worried about all the water borne parasites?

    I think Im cleaner before the creek water. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     

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