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Open Element Air Cleaner

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by KMH87K5, Mar 22, 2002.

  1. KMH87K5

    KMH87K5 Registered Member

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    Will an open element air filter fit on my 87 k5 350 TBI. If so, are there any modifications that need to be done?
    Thanks!
     
  2. Bubba Ray Boudreaux

    Bubba Ray Boudreaux 1 ton status

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    Yep. I bought a cheapie from Kragen, had to get the spacer kit to make it work also.
     
  3. bigmack

    bigmack 1/2 ton status

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    Just a word of caution with an open element, if your rig see's any water like streams, etc, I wouldn't use it. I say this because I had a K&N open element on my truck & was crossing some water that was deeper than I thought and you guessed it, the fan got down in the water and sprayed it thru my filter, and filled my engine up with water. I just wanted to give you something to think about.
     
  4. creampuff90k5

    creampuff90k5 1/2 ton status

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    I don't really think you'll see much of an improvement by switching to an open element filter. The factory snorkle actually works pretty well. But what you can do is change just the filter that's inside the housing to one of the freer flowing models like K&N. If you're feeling fancy, you can also get a chrome lid!!
     
  5. ds350

    ds350 1/2 ton status

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    I have a K&N air cleaner assembly and filter on my truck. It works OK....more noise than power.

    The only thing that I needed to do was hook up a line for the crankcase vent to the bottom port of the aircleaner.

    Danny
     
  6. JIM88K5

    JIM88K5 1/2 ton status

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    I'd stick with the factory set up and put a K&N element
    in place of the paper one. An open element air cleaner
    will breath in underhood temp air (200+ deg.), as oposed
    to the stock snorkle (outside air temp.). Plus the stock is
    smog legal.
    Jim
     
  7. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

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    I have a open element 2" filter on my '84 will no problems so far crossing streams & such....
     
  8. RESTORE89

    RESTORE89 1/2 ton status

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    i agree. keep the stock snorkle and get an open filter, then you get the best of both worlds. free flowing and cool air. my truck was void of any filter when i bought it, and a stock unit was $300 from the dealer, so i found an after market from pacesetter for $100, and it uses a plastic housing over the TBI and a 3"tube toward the fender well, with a cone shaped K&N at the end. and i have noticed no diff between running open and the new filter.
     
  9. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Keep the snorkle set up and put a drop in K&N. You get playing in mud and water your going send all that all over the open and possibly hydro lock the engine. If your going to play in deep water pull the snorkel loose from the core suport and point it into the corner where it can't get a dirrect shot of water.
    My 75 had the old restrictive under hood pick up with like a 1.75 opening. I flipped the lid for a while and it ran better. I put a air cleaner with a snorkle with the big inlet off a 85 and it ran even better getting cool air.
     
  10. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    build a custom snorkle that comes out of the fender and up. then put a K&N on top of that. make a small ram air out of it. now you can ford rivers and get a nice ruble sound and then look different too
    Grant
     
  11. Bubba Ray Boudreaux

    Bubba Ray Boudreaux 1 ton status

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    I forgot to add that it does add some power. I'm running closed right now since I had to smog it a few weeks ago and it's not running the same. But yeah, the mud is an issue. I've splashed mud up there before.
     
  12. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    The mud/water thing has been covered. Something I haven;t seen coverd is the resson why G.M. (and everyone else) used an enclosed, heated intake ducting.

    To keep it as simple as possible, (ans as far as I'm able to comphend-too)

    Understand that a carb does not adjust it's fuel curve to the quality of air entering it. (Cooler air wil carry more O2, so If a carb can not adjust to the "quality" of the air the eninge takes in, the A/F raio will change). If out-side temp ranges changed from 32 deg F, to 110 deg F. Obviousely there would be a change in air quality, right?



    .....
    O.E. manufactures decided to stabilize the intake are temp as needed to tune the carb to a given A/F ratio. (this also stabilized humidity levels as-wel, meaning the intake temp would have to be over the boiling-pointl) So, if the intake temp is held at a steady state, then the crab can be jetted to a given air quality, and the A/F ratio will stay even, regadless of ambient temps.

    If a Open-air cleaner was installed, then at the carb, A/F mix -might- vary wildly. Possibly giveing un-even performance and more often than not... lean.
    .
     
  13. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    That's a cold weather thing. In the right condisions and temperatures the carb would have frost and ice form. It also helps when the engine is cold by giging an warmer intake charge till the choke cycles. There is a temp switch that closes off the warm air once it reaches a certain temp. Now those do go bad. Infact the one on my 75 is bad and was pumping hot air in when it was 80deg out. I disconnected it and live in a mild enough climate I have not had any trouble but a few times. Those few times were a foot to the floor getting on the hwy. Carb froze and it started sputtering. pulled off let it idle for a couple minutes and it ran fine.
     
  14. Storm Trooper

    Storm Trooper 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I have a K&N on my 87 but it is not stock. I never have a problem with air temp at the motor affecting it and it looks really cool/forums/images/icons/cool.gif
    I would HIGHLY recommend that anyone who runs into mud or water get a prefilter or wrap though. I coated my motor once and it pulled a little mud thru the filter (not good) Get the prefilter or wrap, it's worth it.
     
  15. NITRO

    NITRO 1/2 ton status

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    I just went mudding today and was sittin in hood deep water, but amazinly, none of it came through the filter. the filter is covered, but no water or mud near the carb. I like it. no problems yet.

    NITRO
     
  16. Mudderfocker

    Mudderfocker Registered Member

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    I have an Air-aid system on my 91', the only time it ever gave me problems was when I drove into higher altitudes, for an open element it performs really well, but if you live in the mountains or where the air is a little thinner, I would stick with the old stock set-up w/ a K&N filter. It won't mess with your fuel to air ratio as much.
     
  17. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Grim...or anyone. Do you know where to get the temp switch that is mounted to the stock metal snorkel on the air cleaner assy. I went to NAPA and AutoZone and they both looked at me like I had six heads. I even brought them out and showed them. Is there a part number and/or is it only a dealer item?
     
  18. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    LMAO!! Man, I have gotten that same look from parts people. LOL! Just the other day I went to Kragen looking for a choke pull off for my Q-jet...She gave me that same look. "You want a WHAT?" LMAO!!
     
  19. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I've never seen one thats actually bad. Not saying it can't happen of course, just that it seems kind of uncommon. Wrecking yard if you are dead set on not going to the dealer, but ask them, it might be cheaper than you think.
     
  20. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Are you talking about the air cleaner heat riser assembly, or the crossover in the intake?

    The heat riser assembly (metal pipe or tube on the passenger side up to the snorkle, and the "valve" inside the snorkle nose) is to help the engine warm up faster. You'll have a hard time getting that thing cold enough to actually shut after the vehicl has already warmed up and is running...I'd almost guarantee that it's wide open at 32* ambient or 110* ambient air temp, as long as the engine is warmed up.

    The intake crossover, as Grim said, is there to prevent icing. Block it off, and once you get off the freeway, in the right conditions, you can actually have problems. (again, fuel or mix being too cold)

    BUT don't forget that to atomize fuel well, you have to warm it up, and the crossover does that while preventing icing. (feel the carb temp after running!)

    Obviously, when racing, the more fuel the better basically.

    But you run cold air, and cold fuel, you will have real problems with mixture...not a problem when trying to get as much power as possible, but for economy and driveability thats not good. Run a dual plane intake like 95% of us, mix is going to be worse than in a single plane. (single plane mix heads straight for cylinders, dual plane mix must make "sharp" bends which further serve to allow fuel to condense.) Top a single plane off with cold air and cold fuel, in a daily driver, I think you'd be really disappointed, and not just because of the single plane intake.

    No matter how you put it, good atomization of the fuel and power in a carbed setup seem to be mutually exclusive. Velocity helps of course, but cold air just ends up cooling off the intake charge, a cool intake charge just cools off the fuel. Cold fuel and cold intake air lead to fuel "dropping out of suspension" which is obviously a bad thing. TPI makes a huge difference here... I'm not saying that one or the other (cold fuel or cold air) isn't going to make a difference in power, as it will, I'm just saying that one extreme or the other is ideal for all cases.

    At least thats MY understanding. : ) If I'm messed up somewhere, someone please let me know. I don't mind learning. : )
     

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