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Opinions needed on spray in bed liner and roll bar mounts

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Grim-Reaper, May 5, 2001.

  1. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Ok I have to make a decision. Once I weld in my front hoop there is no way short of cutting the front hoop off again to remove my roll cage. It's too tight to come out in one peice. I don't have the cash to do the liner yet and may not for a few months.
    My issue is am I better to spray the bed liner before or after the cage is bolted down?
    I know I don't want the cage sprayed so that I can make changes and add stuff later. My concern is moisture getting between the cage and the floor so I was going to spray the liner then bolt in the cage. Somebody else feels that I might have an issue because the cage will move some and probably wear through the liner so I'm back at the same problem. They feel I'm better off bolting the gage down first. Their reasoning is the liner will have give and let the cage move more making the problem worse.
    My fear with spraying it after is moisture will wick up the bolt holes and make it's way between the mount and floor anyway and cause rust.
    What do you folks think?
    I really would like to get my already made front hoop in because the cage looks funny with just the rear section (it will also get it out of my garage). I also have a Tellico ride and a ride where we have had several lay overs the next 2 weekends. That added safety would sure ease my mind some.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I would spray a couple of coats of bedliner down in that area first. If the liner is the good stuff it'll take quite a bit to wear through. You could also coat the under side of the roll bar pad where it will meet the floor. If you're really worried about moisture wicking up you could use some silicone on the roll bar bolts.

    Rene

    [​IMG]<A target="_blank" HREF=http://jules.coloradok5.com>http://jules.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  3. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    Good question, I'm in the same boat, have you talked to any places that build roll cages yet, maybe they have some insight.

    Steve
    [​IMG]
    Mall-Running poseur 4x4 with curb-feelers
     
  4. CV202

    CV202 1/2 ton status

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    You may want to try coating the area where the baseplate will go with something like POR-15 (top and bottom) as well as the baseplate. This goes on thin enough to prevent any rocking and is very sturdy stuff. Then seal the bolts up with a bunch of loctite to keep the water out.

    Why do people keep calling it a Bronco!!!!! [​IMG]
     
  5. Michael

    Michael 1/2 ton status

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    I'm with CV202 Grim.....Por 15 sounds like the deal. I wouldn't want any "cushion" between the floor and the baseplate.....you could always weld that sucker in like I did.......I didn't figure it was ever comin' out either. Bedliner is comin' some day.....

    Michael[​IMG]
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.jmartin.net/parker/goose.htm>http://www.jmartin.net/parker/goose.htm</A>
     
  6. JoeAngelicchio

    JoeAngelicchio 1/2 ton status

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    I would use POR15 when I do mine, keep the rust from starting and leaves a hard coating.

    <font color=green>Joe Angelicchio
    86 Jimmy 4+3, 35-&gt;39.5 tires,4spd
    </font color=green>
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  7. DBLAZER

    DBLAZER 1/2 ton status

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    Seal the floor and then put the cage in, thats my advice. When you get the liner done just do the cage then. As long as you seal the hell out of the floor so it doeasnt try to rust under it.


    [​IMG]
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  8. Rob 85K5

    Rob 85K5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I've been mulling this over also. Just got all of the capret out and bolted the seats back in to go for a ride and thought about the metal rubbing through the liner. The flip up passenger seat has two rubber pads mounted on the floor for when it swings down and I thought about using th same hard rubber pads as a gasket between the metal flang and the liner. This would seal tight to to liner and contral a little vibration. I don't think it would be any problem for the roll bar structure wise. We've done somewhat the same thing when mounting steel into parking decks that move and bounce a lot.
    So I would say line it first.

    Rob 85K5

    <font color=orange>Bleedin' Chevy Orange</font color=orange>
     
  9. Brian 89KBlazer

    Brian 89KBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    I'm getting the underside & inside of my floors rhino-lined & then bolting the cage footplates to the mounting plates from the chassis sandwiching the floor & bedliner between the two. I talked to alot of guys who had cages built that way & they all said it was the way to go. Noise damping & vibration damping all in one. I'll also be coating the footplates in POR-15 so that they don't rust on top of the floor.
    As for wear-through; I don't think the bolted in cage is going to move back & forth enough to be able to tear the liner. If it's that sloppy; rust will be your last worry![​IMG]

    Good Luck
    Brian
    89KBlazer
     

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