Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Opinions wanted.

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Mudstud, Apr 9, 2003.

  1. Mudstud

    Mudstud 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 29, 2001
    Posts:
    1,472
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Memphis, TN
    Opinions wanted
    What I have is a 76 K5 with a 6" lift and 35s. Dana 44 and 12 bolt (presently). Eventually- I will have 38s but probably not for awhile. I also have a twin sticked 205 to assist me in maneuvering this thing through tight spaces.
    I bought a 10 and 14 bolt matched set this past weekend out of a 78 or 79 truck. They are 4.10s. The front will need 2 or 3 axles replaced. It has a leaking inner seal and a rounded spring perch. It also has a lock-rite in it. The ball joints seem to be good. These things have been sitting for just over a year in the weather. People tell me that the calipers should still be good. What I'm not sure of is if I want to keep my present Dana 44 and put on the 8 lug outers and swap in used 4.10 gears and remain open. OR fix up the 10 bolt and run it either with the or with out the locker. I'm just a little leery of running a front locker in a 10 bolt or a 44 with larger tires. Granted, the Blazer sees mainly mud but I intend on hitting Hot Springs which has rocks. I realize that with the rear in neutral and the front engaged and locked I'll be spitting axle parts. A solution is to unlock a hub if I get into a sticky mess on the rocks and need to slid the front around. Another advantage of the 10 bolt and locker is that it'd be nice to have one locker for now since the rear will be open until I find a USED detroit.

    How much can you buy used 4.10 gears for a dana 44? I have friends that will help me with install.

    I have a welder and 1/4" steel so I have the means to repair the rounded perch.

    I think I'm leaning toward fixing up the 10 bolt and keeping the locker but would like to hear your guys thoughts. /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  2. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    May 19, 2001
    Posts:
    45,030
    Likes Received:
    363
    Location:
    Vancouver, WA, USA
    >What I'm not sure of is if I want to keep my present Dana
    >44 and put on the 8 lug outers and swap in used 4.10 gears
    >and remain open. OR fix up the 10 bolt and run it either
    >with the or with out the locker.

    personally Id upgrade the d44. the 10 bolt you have seems to have lots of issues and who knows how many more might "pop up" as you start to use it. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif If the d44 has been relatively well maintained, I'd just stick with it. Used 4.10s shouldnt be to hard to find or too expensive... I am trying to sell 4.10s for a d60 and cant seem to get $50 for them, so I dont think d44 gears should be to much at all... certainly a lot less than replacing all the shafts in that 10b. I agree with you on the locker-in-a-1/2t-axle issue... not the best idea IMO. I used to run detroit trutracs in mine (front and rear 10bs) and they worked really well. If I was you I'd go lim slip or just leave it open. Hopefully your ff14b will be locked up... that alone will make your rig pretty capable... no sense in putting toooo much strain on your 1/2t front axle if you dont have too.

    j
     
  3. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2001
    Posts:
    3,039
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Clinton, IA USA
    I've got to agree with jekbrown. It sounds like the 10 bolt has seen better days. Use the 8-lug outers and part the rest. You should be able to get some $$$$ for the 10 bolt locker etc. One thing to remember is that if your current D44 has 3:73-down gears, you'll also need a 4:10-up carrier for the 4:10 gears. Good Luck! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  4. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2001
    Posts:
    8,972
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Peoria, AZ
    Sell the locker out of the 10 bolt and anything else you can. Use the outers for you D44. Lockers in the front with 35's aren't that bad. I have seen Marv Springer and Rob (therobzilla) wheel the piss out of there 1/2tons with lockers front and rear with very little problems. You have to expect to break something once in awhile, but thats life with a 1/2 ton front. I am currently running a lockright in the front 10 bolt without problems. I haven't had a chance to wheel it hard yet though.

    If you have someone who can install gears, the I would tell you to go get a new set of gears and install kit. Redo all the bearings infront just for piece of mind along with new gears. They are not that expensive.

    As for the 14bff, if you have a welder then you have a locker. I run a welded rear, and I don't have a problem with it. You have to learn to drive it right, but you have to learn to drive a detroit too.
     
  5. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2001
    Posts:
    1,975
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Plano, TX
    I personally ran 10-bolt front with Detroit locker and 35s for over a year with any problems at all. It has more to do with the use of the skinny pedal and your own smarts than anything else. Like you said, you could always unlock a hub if you are in a situation that seriously concerns you. I also used to carry a full set of spare shafts, including front ones complete with the inners and outers jointed together. But, in the entire year I ran them, I never broke. As a matter of fact, if you are interested, I still have the shafts for sale (sold the axles already).

    The only issue I have seen on a D44 is with the center pin through the spider gears. I have a friend that runs a 75 with a D44 front with 4.10s and open. Last time he was out, he busted his spider gears. On a 10-bolt, you can remove the center pin, pop out the spiders, and pop new ones in. On the D44, the 4.10 ring gear blocked the removal of the pin. We had to pull the shafts, pull the carrier, then pop off the ring gear just to get to the pin to remove it.

    I know they say a D44 is stronger than a 10B, but I don't think it would be so much different to make sense. My K20 has a 10bolt front 8 lug to match the 14BSF rear 8 lug.
     
  6. Mudstud

    Mudstud 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 29, 2001
    Posts:
    1,472
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Memphis, TN
    Thank you people. Good thoughts. Looking back at what I wrote it does sound like that front has seen better days. I did leave off that the tie rod was bent too but I know where I can get one for $10. This is a daily driven truck for now so I'm not real big on the idea of welding the rear dif.

    The deal I got wasn't too bad even if I ditch the front end and take the 8 lug outters. Paid 325 for the rear with disc brakes and calipers and the front end with internal Warn locking hubs. Got spring plates and U-bolts too for the rear and plates for the front.

    Yes, the 44 under the K5 now has 3.73s and is open. It's been well maintained by me for the last several years. I've heard that you can get a spacer plate (or something) that will allow you to run 4.10 gears and below on a 3.73 carrier. Anybody know anything about this? What do you guys think I could get for a 10 bolt 4.10 R&P and a Lock-rite? Will that set up fit in a rear 10 bolt?
     

Share This Page