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ORD sway bar disconnects binding?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by fireinthehole, Mar 16, 2002.

    Posted a problem last night about not being able to turn right after lifting Suburban 4". I installed the ORD sway bar disconnects before the lift to save time. This morning I had my wife turn the wheel to the right while I looked underneath to see if anything was binding. The only thing I noticed was that the passenger side disconnect did not move when the wheel was turned like the drivers side does. Any ideas? When I say can't turn right, I mean the steering wheel wont turn 1 full revolution. It really sucks trying to make a sharp right.
     
  1. 87GMC

    87GMC 1/2 ton status

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    Did you install a raised steering arm with the lift? Also I had to lenthen(unscrew) my draglink slightly to get the steering wheel pointng straight.
     
  2. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    In his old post it says he installed a raised steering arm.

    Sounds like the gear is running off-centerd, so there is 4 or 5 turns to the left, and maybe 1 or 2 turns right. It's pretty common after installing a lift. Your going to have to lengthen the drag link by un-screwing the coller.

    The ORD disco. thing sound like its normal opperation, when turning the steering wheel, lock-to-lock, the suspension will move a little in relation to the frame, so the ORD discos will move around alittle too. -Not a problem.
     
  3. Tires are pretty straight now, so when I loosen the collar, which end of the drag link should be longer? Or is it pretty much a trial & error thing? One other thing, how do I get my steering wheel lined back straight?
     
  4. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    pull the steering arm, center the tires ad then center the steering wheel. re install the arm
    done(wish it was that easy)
    grant
     
  5. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    Loosen the coller and twist, both drag-link ends will thread in or out depending on which way you turn the collar. One link is right-hand thread, the other is left-hand thread.

    It sounds like your gear is way-off, you need to turn the collar two or three or more, complete revilutions. Then, turn your wheels to the full RT lock, and check you steering stop-bolt clearance. The steering stop bolt is on the back of your steering nuckle, and will/should contact the axle when turned fully. You will probabley need someone to turn the wheel for you, while you inspect the clearance. If the steering-stop bolt does not contact, you will need to turn the coller further, until it does.

    Now, once you obtain you full turning radius, you will need to center te steering wheel. The preoces is the same, losen and turn the collar in slight amounts, tighten everthing down and test drive. continue to adj as needed until the steering wheel is alighned.
     
  6. Thanks for the info. I will try that this morning. I really dont want to pull that steering arm off again unless I have to.
     
  7. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    Just take it to an alignment shop. Probably charge $40 or so for a straight axle like ours. They'll adjust your drag link spot-on (which you can do yourself, but it takesorever) and they'll adjust your toe-in to boot (which you can also do yourself, but it's a pain.)
    -- Mike
     
  8. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    FITH,

    I just did a draglink adjustment on mine, and I can tell you a relatively painless way to accomplish it.....

    Start with the wheels pointed straight ahead.

    You will see the splines on the steering gear don't go completely around the shaft (at least they don't on mine.....there's only about 8 splines showing) Disconnect the front of the draglink so that the steering box & steering arm can rotate by themselves. Turn the steeringwheel ALL the way to the left. Find the last visible spline and make a score mark on the steering box where it ended up. Then turn the wheel ALL the way to the right and make another score mark on the steering box. What you will proabably find is that the "two" marks end up being in the same place on the steering box.....that's OK.

    Count the splines on the steering gear (mine had 8) and then split the number in half....that's your CENTER position. Make a little scoremark on the splines so you can find that spot again.

    Finally: Rotate the steering wheel so that your "CENTER SPLINE" mark lines up with the score mark on the steering box (the ones you established with the LEFT & RIGHT turns). You now have the steering arm "centered".

    Hopefully your wheels are still pointed straight.....loosen the clamps on your draglink, and adjust the collar until you are able to fit the draglink end into the steering arm hole WITHOUT moving the steering wheel.

    At this point:

    Your wheels are straight
    Your steering box has equal amounts of Left & Right movement
    Your draglink is adjusted to have your wheels in the center position when the steering box is in IT'S centered position.


    That worked for me. Mine was pretty messed up, and when I was done, the steering wheel was nowhere NEAR straight after I completed all the adjustments. I pulled the wheel off and re-centered it, since I was convinced that the P.O. had probably just messed it up anyway, and I knew that my new adjustments were correct. If the steering wheel is slightly off (maybe an inch or so)...you can use the draglink adjustment sleeve to "tweak" it perfectly.

    Hope that all made sense, and I hope it helps!!! /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     

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