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OVER HEATING

Discussion in 'Pacific Region' started by NEOMASTINO2U, Jun 29, 2002.

  1. NEOMASTINO2U

    NEOMASTINO2U 1/2 ton status

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    HEY GUYS,
    I HAVE A 78 BLAZER THAT I JUST FINISHED RESTORING, YES I AM A GIRL AND THIS IS MY 4TH BLAZER, I KEEP SELLING THEM AND BUYING THEM CAUSE I END UP MISSING THE LOVE HATE RELATIONSHIP I HAVE, ANY WAY I AM RUNNING REAL HOT WITH THIS ONE AND I HAVE CHECKED RADIATOR, WATER PUMP AND CHANGED THERMOSTATS SEVERAL TIMES AND CHECKED THE GAUGE, STILL RUNS REAL HOT I HAVE TO HAVE 165 THERMOSTAT IN IT JUST TO KEEP FROM OVERHEATING, I TRY A 185 AND SHE BOILS BIG TIME! ANY WAY I HAVE HIT A WALL ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE GREAT, IT HAS A 350 BORED 30 AND I HAVE CHECKED TIMING AND IT HAS A NEW CARB, ANY SLIM CHANCE IT COULD BE HEATER CORE ONLY THING I HAVEN'T CHECKED? ANY IDEAS WOULD BE GREAT AND MUCH APPRECIATED.
    THANKS
    KELLY
     
  2. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    does the radiator have foam in it when you have the cap off?? could be signs of a blown head gasket. check for water in the oil as well.
    Does it have a clutch fan?
     
  3. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

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    if the heater core is pluged it will over heat try bypassing it and see if it still does it
     
  4. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    My brothers truck doesn't run a heater, so that really isn't an issue. The heater acts as a mini radiator, but without one, or even a faulty one you shouldn't have these problems.
    If the passenger side floor wet? or get a sugary smell(leaky antifreeze into the cab of the truck, or is the firewall wet where the core is mounted,
    Are you losing water?
    Does it do it all the time?
    or just while parked or while driving?


    Oh and BTW WELCOME TO CK5!!!!/forums/images/icons/cool.gif /forums/images/icons/smirk.gif
     
  5. NEOMASTINO2U

    NEOMASTINO2U 1/2 ton status

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    THANKS I WILL TRY THAT IN THE MORNING AND THE FIRST THING I DID WAS CHECK FOR A BLOWN GASKET ALL IS SAFE WATER AND OIL CLEAN AS A WHISTLE THAT IS WHY I AM AT MY WHITS END WITH THIS ONE, MY 77 WASN'T THIS MUCH OF A PAIN!
    KELLY
     
  6. NEOMASTINO2U

    NEOMASTINO2U 1/2 ton status

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    FLOOR IS DRY AS A BONE AND NO SMELL, ALREADY WENT THRU THAT ONCE WITH MY 77 PAIN CHANGING HEATER CORES, AND IT RUNS HOT ALL THE TIME AND IT HAS A CLUTCH FAN AND IT IS WORKING FINE THATS WHY THIS ONE IS A THINKER ON WHAT IT COULD BE, AND A REAL PAIN IN MY A**!
    KELLY
     
  7. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

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    could also be cloged passages or if like jerremy said a bad clutch fan just a few more things to check /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif
     
  8. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    MY 77 WASN'T THIS MUCH OF A PAIN! ]

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Thats cause 77's are better years,LOL/forums/images/icons/wink.gif

    Was the radiator boiled out?
    is the fan spaced properly?
    correct shroud?
    is it the correct rotation water pump?( newer pumps are spun backwards)
     
  9. NEOMASTINO2U

    NEOMASTINO2U 1/2 ton status

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    THANKS FOR ALL THE INPUT I AM GOING LOOK AT IT IN THE MORNING I ALREADY HAVE TO PUT A NEW HEATER MOTOR IN IT JUST WENT OUT TODAY, SO I PROBABLY WILL PUT IN A NEW HEATER CORE IT IS ABOUT THE LAST THING LEFT THAT COULD POSSIBLY BE WRONG WITH IT. CLUTCH FAN IS NEW AND WORKING GREAT,AND I DID CHECK ALL PASSAGES AND WATER IS MOVING THROUGH LIKE I SAID THIS ONE HAS EVERY ONE I KNOW OF STUMPED, BUT I THINK IT IS THE HEATER CORE THERE ISN'T ANY THING LEFT THAT IT COULD BE, THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP AND I AM GLAD I AM NOT THE ONLY ONE WHO THINKS IT COULD POSSIBLY BE THE HEATER CORE.
    KELLY
     
  10. NEOMASTINO2U

    NEOMASTINO2U 1/2 ton status

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    WATER PUMP IS CORRECT SO IS THE FAN AND SHROUD AND RADIATOR IS OKAY AND YOU ARE SO RIGHT 77'S ARE BETTER AND I SURE MISS MY OLD ONE BUT I DID BY A 87 AND SOLD IT A YEAR LATER THAT WAS A BIG PIECE OF SH**! AND ALL I COULD FIND WAS THIS RUSTED OLD 78 BUT IT HAD A 4 SPEED IN IT AND I HAD VISION'S OF WHAT IT COULD BE, NOW IT HAS NEW FENDERS NEW INTERIOR AND IT NO LONGER IS BUT UGLY BROWN, IT IS BAHAMA BLUE, AND IT LOOKS ALMOST NEW AGAIN, NOW IF I CAN FIGURE OUT THE COOLING PROBLEM I WILL BE IN HEAVEN! I EVEN HAVE ONE TON AXLES AND GEARS FRONT AND REAR, EXCEPT I AM NOT HAPPY ABOUT TAKING OUT THE REAR AXLES TO DO THE BRAKES. OH WELL THE PRICE WE PAY TO PLAY!
    KELLY
     
  11. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    78 with a 4 spd

    [/ QUOTE ] ..those are cool too /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
    let us know what you find out.

    Only thing good on the 87 was the front sheet metal, reclining seats, and fuel injection,LMAO...

    Any pics of this Blazer or your old ones?



    -Jeremy
    Howlin' Off Road
    "Answer the Call of the Wild"
     
  12. reddog64

    reddog64 1/2 ton status

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    check your timing.. makes my 400 run hot if the timing is too far off...
     
  13. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

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    you could also try getting a 4core radiator if all else fails /forums/images/icons/crazy.gif
     
  14. NEOMASTINO2U

    NEOMASTINO2U 1/2 ton status

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    I LOVE MY 4 SPEEDS, AND YES THE ONLY THING GOOD ON THE 87 WAS JUST THAT, ALSO I HAVE PICS OF ALL MY TOYS BEFORE RESTORATION, DURING AND AFTER! I HAVE TO GET MY SCANNER UP AND RUNNING AND I WILL POST THEM.
    KELLY
     
  15. BlueKnight

    BlueKnight 1/2 ton status

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    a silly question but is the fan mounted correctly so its pulling air instead of pushing it? Just had a customer do this today.
     
  16. uglychevyZZ4

    uglychevyZZ4 3/4 ton status

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    Nice caps...lol, i agree with everything they have directed you to check, especially the passage flow and the head gasket.

    Do know that you can have a seeping headgasket and NOT have water in the oil, it'll boil real fast, but may not see oil if it is leaking exhaust INTO a water passage, and NOT on a oil jacket /forums/images/icons/wink.gif i suggest going to a shop and have em' poke yer radiator with a emissions tester, that will tell the truth! it will look for any emissions in the cooling system.

    also, some cases if your thermostat is too low, like 165, it will not keep the coolant in the rad long enough to COOL OFF /forums/images/icons/wink.gif i have to use a 190!! just a thought, but the way you described the boiling fast, im bettin on the gasket. just tryin to help, i severly recommend the emission test, itll only cost like $10.00
     
  17. leadfoot067

    leadfoot067 1/2 ton status

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    ok ill give ya my .02 cents worth here /forums/images/icons/wink.gif after reading all of this i wonder how much compression you have?what heads and pistons?next thing is after alot of personal experience with oval track cars running 11.5 to 1 or more compression,water needs to flow,try removing the t-stat completely.and see what happens.its the only thing that works for us with an aluminum radiator ,proper shroud and fan relationship,and air ducting forward of the radiator.on a 350 with 12 to 1 compression in a race car,and it runs 170 on the track and gets up to 180ish when idling.hope this helps.one other thing a radiator pressure tester will find any leak or blown gasket even if you cant see it or find it normally by putting dye in the water the pressurizing the system.

    good luck
    shane
     
  18. ntaj*ep

    ntaj*ep 1/2 ton status

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    I'm just wondering what hot is? My 350 runs about 190 degrees(sp) with the sending unit in the intake just behind the t-stat. I think like what was said prevously if you have high compression or a "big" cam in this motor, or your running a bit lean it may run close to 200. The location of your sending unit plays a big part of this. I like to put it in the intake. The "factory" location in the head is ok. But if you have an issue in one head or the other it may read hot when the rest of the motor is ok, for example. If you have a head gasket or issue with one of the heads, you will get hydrocarbons in the cooling system. If you don't have access to a 4-gas anylizer let me know I can test it for you if you'd like. Also if this is a new motor you may have a bit of a break-in where the motor may be running a bit warm as well, especially if there is a tight spot in one of the bearings (bad, bad stuff).

    These are just a few suggestions, sounds like you've been dealing with quite a few people on this. Hope it gets sorted out soon, I hate persistant problems like this. Oh, and welcome to the party! Great to have another fellow K5er here! /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  19. uglychevyZZ4

    uglychevyZZ4 3/4 ton status

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    oh, and one more thought, sounds dumb, but you said it boils fast.... is the cap sealed good? is the vent shut completely? /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif
     
  20. NEOMASTINO2U

    NEOMASTINO2U 1/2 ton status

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    Well thanks for all the advice, and i had it checked on saturday for possible head gasket, all is fine, they tell me she is just going to run real warm, i am looking at taking it to a different shop, i hate it when they treat you like an idiot because you are female, oh well, i changed heater core boy was that festive, and as far as i know the motor has about 35,000 miles and was built by a guy who builds race car motors, i am running heavy cam and 10-1 steel forged pistons, like i said just bought this one in feb. 02" so still trying to get used to new sounds and noises, definetly not like the 77 i had, except i am thinking about swaping gears and axles on it back to 373's i know it sounds nuts but she sucks on the freeway! any one know of a place to buy a hood hinge, got one thats shot.
    thanks for all the info on this overheating problem. hopefully i will be able to get it figured out soon.
    kelly
     

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