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OVERHEATING...WTF

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by bckinblk, Aug 14, 2002.

  1. bckinblk

    bckinblk 1/2 ton status

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    I just had the radiator flushed I put in a 160 tstat new direct fan and my blazer still overheats?? Around town it runs at 160-180 but when I drive the highway it shoots up past 220- I cant think of anything else to change.I also have had an oil leak somewhere on top of the motor in the back I checked dist gasket and oil sender and they are wet but I resealed them and still leaks ..Could these be signs of bad head gasket..What could it be????? thanks for any info.............
     
  2. Batchman

    Batchman Registered Member

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    to my under standing if it heats up on the highway it is the waterpump the higher rpms and no water flowing around town it gets enough water however on -the highway it does not my guess
     
  3. WakeBoard&4X4er

    WakeBoard&4X4er 1/2 ton status

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    Do a Search on this you should find Info about this that way.


    just in 73-91 K5 Blazer/Jimmy/Suburban/Truck(87) 4x4 (Second Generation)
    help! over heating BADD!!
    Too Hot??
    What is normal engine temp?
    Need help with spontaneous overheating!!!
    Need Help, Cooling System?, Engine?
    Overheating
    Running HOT!!!!!!!!
     
  4. reddog64

    reddog64 1/2 ton status

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    waterpump time...

    18 bucks.. cough it up /forums/images/icons/smile.gif /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
     
  5. Jay73K20

    Jay73K20 Registered Member

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    oilleak=oil sender, you can't seal up an oil sender. the stamp steel unit either leaks or doesn't leak. Buy a water pump and oil sender for under forty bucks and you will be a happy camper.
     
  6. DPI

    DPI 1/2 ton status

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    I am having the same problem on my '90. I did notice the water pump was leaking a little and new it needed to be replaced, but I did not know that was a cause of overheating on the hiway. Good post! Thanks!
     
  7. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Do a search as was suggested.

    Lower temp thermostats don't help when the problem exists elsewhere.

    Might be sticking my nose out here, but I'd like someone to clue me in as to how a water pump can physically work, but somehow all of a sudden change output? If you've ever had a water pump impeller come apart or slip on the shaft, I can see it, but I'm betting thats a 1 in 100,000 chance.

    Radiator flushes IMO are worthless. Have it flow tested and/or replaced if its old.
     
  8. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    Kinda like setting your home A/C for 60 when you can't even get below 65 /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif . I have had good luck with a radiator flush. I guess can after can of stop leak doesn't help things out, damn previous owners. It was doing 210 with the heater on, and 230 with it off. It also had a pinhole leak on the side of the tank. The shop I took it too is like going 100 years back in time. They only thing in there that runs on electricity is the lights. The chemicals in there eat just about anything electronic. I'd say the flushes you buy in a can are worthless, but the real deal acid flushes really get with it.


    On an unrelated matter..... I check out the blocks at the shop, and nothing special, sorry. TOI is a 2-bolt 350. The four bolt had been decked and no longer has a code. No 010 or 020 blocks either. The Chevrolet Small Block Parts Interchange Manual (try saying that with your mouth full) says it means 1% extra nickel and 2% more tin to the mix.
     
  9. bckinblk

    bckinblk 1/2 ton status

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    I am going to try the new water pump idea but it is not leaking and the pully shaft does not move at all but I guess its worth a shot .I also pulled the oil sender out and put some rtv gasket sealer on it I noticed that it does not thread in all the way .It looks like the leak is coming out of the distr but I have new gaskets .I am losing much more oil now the ever .I will buy these new parts and let you know if it works .Thanks all for the help...........
     
  10. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    if it overheats on the HW driving not parked like in cali or NY then it is the pump cavitatind.
    try the pump. and flush your engine also. the prestone kit rocks.
    use peak antifreeze also. stuff rocks and is "safer"
    grant
     
  11. bckinblk

    bckinblk 1/2 ton status

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    Well you guys were right I bolted in the new pump this morning and shes running cool as can be I put in a new oil sender and the damn thing still leaks I dont get it it is as if somehow oil is seaping out somewhere near the dist-oil sender but I cant find the leak and also going down the highway my tailgate gets saturated with oil and when I park it I am getting oil spots in the driveway and my starter is saturated from oil leaking down it .I also noticed that my rear driveshaft is soaked where the slip yoke goes into the t-case and the floor is wet around that area I just put in a new t-case rear seal but it seems that the tranny fluid is coming out through the u-joint is that possible??Any how thanks for any info in advance in helping me find out where my k5 is leaking from................
     
  12. loudnowlouder

    loudnowlouder 1/2 ton status

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    my best guess is that your intake seal is leaking..
    you said the oil is dripping down onto your starter...which means its higher up than the rear main or the oil pan...
    if its leaking in the back up high it can only be a few things, heads, dist, or intake...
    but there shouldnt be that much coming out of the dist, and if it were your head gasket you'd have a whole slew of other problems...
    i had the exact same symptoms and it was the intake seal...they almost always leak from the back (in my experience that is)...and its a quick fix...
    took maybe 3 hours from start to finish, and i wasnt pushing myself....
    all you have to do is drain about a gallon of antifreeze, pull the hoses going into the intake, pull anything else thats attached to it and pull the bolts, you'll have to spend about 50 bucks on the head to intake seals, and then another 5 bucks on Ultra Black...the front and rear of the intake is just sealed with black high temp RTV...and the tube they give you with the seals is barely enough, i'd just buy a tube and do it...
    but its a real easy fix, and when it does leak, the air moving under the truck throws the oil everywhere underneath, my rear end was always wet from catching the oil...
     
  13. bckinblk

    bckinblk 1/2 ton status

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    That sounds like my problem because I have tried to reseal the dist and oil sender and it still leaks out of the back top .I will pull the intake off this weekend and hopefully fix this leak for good .What gaskets do you recommend to insure a good seal?I looked at a dozen brands today and I liked the mr gasket copper seal .Has anyone used this gasket?? My k5 is my daily driver and I want to make sure I get the best parts for it .Thanks for the help..........
     
  14. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    Bread and butter Fel-Pro gaskets. All those super mega hyper seal crap doesn't amount to a hill of beans. Just be sure to put RTV on the front and back sides of the coolant ports and use RTV for end seal gasekets (a little on both sides of the gasket where the corners of the end seals is at is good too).
     
  15. bckinblk

    bckinblk 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the tip man .
     
  16. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    I realized I probably sounded confusing, but I try, lol. The corners I was refering to were where the head and the block meet, that little joint, or angle, or whatever area. Silicone on both side of the gasket there.

    Anyways, I had a thought. As long as you are pulling the intake, you could splurge $100 and buy an aluminum intake. If you don't have emissions, you could buy one with a block crossover (hole for exhaust gases to come from the head and up the EGR valve) and no EGR and have a little cooler top end. Might add a slight more punch and cool looks.
     

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