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Paging Greg72, Greg 72 to the front please

Discussion in 'Audio' started by LKJR, Oct 23, 2002.

  1. LKJR

    LKJR 1/2 ton status

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    hey guy, did the pods you made for your doors work out pretty good? I was thinking I heard something about you changing them since you have a welder now...
     
  2. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    'sup Les!

    Actually, the door speakers are my midbasses. I have two 6" drivers in each door mounted behind the sheetmetal in the most forward part of each door at the bottom.

    What you are probably remembering is the tweeter pods that I build out of MDF that were tucked into the corners of the footwells.... and YES those have been "retired" already. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

    Once I got the welder, I decided to get crazy. I cut two 8" x 12" square holes into the floorboards on each side and built custom-angled metal boxes to hold the tweeters. I even added a "headlight adjuster" setup to each one so I can aim the sound and fine-tune it. They have a heavy metal mesh over the top so that I can put down carpet and feet won't hurt anything. Using a non-backed carpet will allow the sound to come right through no problem......and the whole stereo is getting really STEALTH!

    Last night, I had to remove the subwoofer boxes due to changes in my rollcage design. I am afraid that they will NOT fit once I am done with the new cage, so I will have to add those enclosures to the collection of "Cool Stereo Stuff for K5's that I can no longer use".....

    Maybe one of these days I should just post it for sale...and let some other 1st Gen Blazer use it?
     
  3. LKJR

    LKJR 1/2 ton status

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    well the door setup is what I was refering too, it seemed like you had a piece of mdf cut and radiused on the ends holding the two in each door then attached, the behind the sheetmetal thing kinda throws me for a curve? also are your pics still loaded up somewhere?
     
  4. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Les,

    You mean this.....

    [​IMG]

    You can see the upper screws in the picture are mounted so that the door panel will hide them. There are also a few on the underside of the door going vertially into that panel.

    Knowing what I know now....and having a welder. I'd probably do the same thing in metal next time.....who knows, maybe I still will.
     
  5. LKJR

    LKJR 1/2 ton status

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    do you have a baffle of some type around those on the inside? it looks rather dark in there, my rig is not exactly..waterproof. and the top is off for extended times with it outside
     
  6. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    No baffles or anything...the photo is strangely dark inside the holes! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif Ideally I'd like to seal the lower part of the door from the window mechanism to reduce vibrations and give the bass a more SOLID punch......but it's all just time and effort!

    Too much OTHER stuff on the list that's more important.

    By the way, most car speakers are designed to be in doors, etc. so they have some resistance to moisture and humidity already. Unless your door seals and weatherstripping are comlpetely missing, I wouldn't worry about that as an issue.

    /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  7. LKJR

    LKJR 1/2 ton status

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    hehe, might as well be missing I think, thanks for the insight
     
  8. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    You want to make it out of sheet metal? Why? Doesn't MDF have supperior dampning?

    What do you think of those closed cell foam "chambers" for door speakers?
    like this
     
  9. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    Doesn't MDF have supperior dampning?

    [/ QUOTE ]


    Yep, until it gets wet! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

    On a serious note, I'd just like to have them made out of metal so that I could weld them in, and paint them to match. Then I could dynamat the hell out of the whole door, etc.

    Those foam things will help keep water off a speaker, but won't provide an "enclosure" sonically for the speaker, the sound will still get through it.
     
  10. LKJR

    LKJR 1/2 ton status

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    how did you run your wires thru the truck? did you have carpet in it, I didn't think you did but, did you conceal it somehow? thanks
     
  11. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Les,

    For the doors, I drilled a new hole in the door and pillar area and ran the wires through a rubber sleeve into the doors.

    For all the other amps, I had to run a LOT of wire (about 600 feet) to provide mulitple power and grounds to each amp, and to get signal wires to each amp too.

    The strategy isn't really any different whether you have carpet or not (I don't have any yet), you just try to keep all the wries as flat as possible, and tape them down every few inches so they don't move around. When you finally get the carpet laid down they won't create bulges in the carpet.

    I also try to keep the wires out of the main "traffic areas" so that they don't eventually show up as creases in the carpet, and you have to make sure that you don't put any wires under the rear legs of the "flip forward" seat so they won't get pinched over time.
     
  12. LKJR

    LKJR 1/2 ton status

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    well the reason I ask is I don't have carpet and have no intention of getting any, gonna line the tub when money permits but before then I just need to know what to do, I"ll figure something out I guess, always do
     
  13. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Les,

    In that case, do something ultra-cool. Run metal conduits underneath the truck for all the wiring, and have them enter the interior in the hidden side panel areas. That way the wiring will all be hidden, but you can run it wherever you want it to go (to amps, or speakers or whatever)!!!

    That's something I was considering for the next revision of my own stereo (I think I'm already on Rev. 4!) Now that I have a tubing bender, creating custom wiring conduits will be EASY!!!
     
  14. LKJR

    LKJR 1/2 ton status

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    I thought about that a couple years ago when I had my 72 half ton was going to do a bed cut on it for subs, but the biggest concern with that is the tubing holding water. I don't know if it would make a difference if you drilled some holes in it or not, would provide drainage but would it attract other problems?
     
  15. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    I wouldn't drill any holes in it....but where it comes up through the bed, make sure that it's a few inches higher than the floor, so that and standing water won't drain into it. Also, you could seal the ends of the pipe with shrink tubing, or silicone, or even electrical tape to keep water from getting in there in the first place.

    I'm planning on doing "in the floor" subwoofers in the next few months, since I'm doing a lot of other welding and metal fabrication on my K5 anyway...seems like the right time to deal with that.
     
  16. LKJR

    LKJR 1/2 ton status

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    In the floor subs, that's been a thought of mine for a long time, let us know how it turns out, man if I had a welder I'd be right there with ya on a lot of these projects. good idea on the extending past the floor and sealing it up. looks like it might work
     
  17. Michael

    Michael 1/2 ton status

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    Hey Les,

    I did some wiring for some "racer dudes" a while back. I ran the wires in some heavy wall clear tubing. I made sure the wires were all nice a parallel and tie wrapped purty. Then I used the nylon cable clamps every foot or so to hold it all in place. It looked cool and the guys thought it was real "racy". I suppose in a stereo application you would want your power and signal wires seperate, but that shouldn't be a problem.
     

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