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paint prep

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by solowookie, Jan 29, 2002.

  1. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    ok guys...

    I'm using the k5 as a practice project before I do start on the stovebolt.

    I'm planning to strip it to bare metal, do the body work (of which there is very little that needs done), and then paint it with zero rust.

    I'm going to spray it with black zero rust, and then do some speed-liner around the rockers. there will also be speed-liner on all mirrors, steps, grills etc.

    I started stripping with a wire wheel on my die grinder, and it is just going to take too long. I'm wondering how much faster it would be to buy a bigger wire wheel to put on my grinder, or this there is another recommeneded method such as paint stripper & then a sander to rough up the metal so the zero rust will adhere to it properly.

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     
  2. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    Just an idea, but what I did was removed all the parts and took them to a chemical stripper. They dip it in an acid tank and then coat it in a phosphate tank (a rust preventative). Costs about $100 per piece but no mess and they can do it in a couple days.
     
  3. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    Well I'm far from an expert on paint, but I know prep and have repainted all the grey on my truck. You'll be really surprised what you find once you get stripping. My choice is a DA with real rough grit paper... 60 works. If you find rust... you better get it all aways and treat what is left. Ortho is highly recomended since I will be redoing 2 small areas on mine because the rust is coming back. Other then that the best advice I can give you is bee patient and make sure everything is really dry bfore you move on. Also make sure the surface is clean of all chemicals. Wipe it down with a clean lint free rag and rubbing alcohol to remove oils and such. Make sure your primer looks absolutely mint wet and dry and everything is smooth to the touch and is straight before you spray the color. Black will show off any shortcoming in your prep or any waves in the metal. I can't comment much on spraying the color as I usually leave that and patch panels to a pro.

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch</a>
     
  4. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    Well I'm far from an expert on paint, but I know prep and have repainted all the grey on my truck. You'll be really surprised what you find once you get stripping. My choice is a DA with real rough grit paper... 60 works. If you find rust... you better get it all aways and treat what is left. Ortho is highly recomended since I will be redoing 2 small areas on mine because the rust is coming back. Other then that the best advice I can give you is bee patient and make sure everything is really dry bfore you move on. Also make sure the surface is clean of all chemicals. Wipe it down with a clean lint free rag and rubbing alcohol to remove oils and such. Make sure your primer looks absolutely mint wet and dry and everything is smooth to the touch and is straight before you spray the color. Black will show off any shortcoming in your prep or any waves in the metal. I can't comment much on spraying the color as I usually leave that and patch panels to a pro.

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch</a>
     
  5. kilroy

    kilroy Registered Member

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    whats a DA?
     
  6. BigTex

    BigTex 1/2 ton status

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    The easiest way to get all that old paint off is with a chemical stripper. However, it is illegal in some states to use that in your driveway. The way I got mine down to bare metal (since I don't have any expensive air tools) was with a drill(!) and a 4" wire wheel. Yes, it took a long time but I did it. I would recommend coarse sanding wheels, but if you can get away with using the chemical stripper, go for it. Just becareful because that stuff burns!

    <font color=red>"DON'T TAKE LIFE TOO SERIOUSLY, YOU WON'T GET OUT ALIVE."</font color=red>

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BigTex-Mean-Machine>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BigTex-Mean-Machine</a>
     
  7. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    there isn't anybody around there that does chemical dipping, but I'd rather do the work myself. I'm kinda thinking that instead of a wire wheel I need to have an orbital sander with a pretty course sand paper.

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     
  8. BigTex

    BigTex 1/2 ton status

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    Solo--you can also get cans of the stripper at Walmart (that's what I did). It works very well. Also, Eastwood sells gallons of it that is supposed to work very well. I've never tried that but I have tried some Eastwood products and have been happy with them. Order a catalog, its free. I think you'll find some things you'd like in there. And I know what you mean about wanting to do the work yourself.

    <font color=red>"DON'T TAKE LIFE TOO SERIOUSLY, YOU WON'T GET OUT ALIVE."</font color=red>

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BigTex-Mean-Machine>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BigTex-Mean-Machine</a>
     
  9. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    I've already ordered one of the eastwood catalogs, and I'm can't wait for it to get here!!! LOL - I need some new toys out of it! [​IMG]

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     
  10. seslick77

    seslick77 1/2 ton status

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    Stripper is the fastest, easiest, cheapest way to strip an entire vehicle. Yea sandpaper seams cheaper till you go to the store 4 or 5 times to buy a new box!! I've used the Aircraft stripper to strip an old chevy truck. A few tips: Find lots of cardboard, u will need it to cover all the glass, remove every piece of chrome, or anything you dont want melted. Trust me this stuff eats whatever it touches!! Cover the ground around the vehicle with the cardboard too. Use duct tape to hold everything down, masking tape wont hold up to the stripper. Use heavy duty long rubber gloves and some sort of resperatory protection. Remember that if there was any body work done prior, this stuff will eat away at the body filler too, so it will have to be redone. Plan at least a weekend to complete the strippin, oh and find some bodies to help. Gonna have to sand it too after your done strippin it, hopefully it hasnt been to Earl Schieb too many times!!! lol!
     
  11. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    well you aren't the first one to recommend that, but if it is truely that dangerous, and I know it is, then that won't be an option. I have 2 autistic kids that are always around, and I don't think that stuff is something I'm willing to either have around, or do with my kids.

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     
  12. K5DRAGER

    K5DRAGER 1/2 ton status

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    Lets see if I can answer some of these. A da is a dual action sander...it sands back and forth and circular at the same time. if you can get one of these use a 60 or 80 grit first to get the worst off then go to a 180 and then a 240 then you can spray a couple light coats of metal eching primer followed by a few coats of filler primer. When that is done make sure you loosely spray it with a rattle can... kinda like over spray. That way when you wet sand it you know you have it all sanded evenly. If you where just looking at ways to sand another way is to get or find someone that has a large high speed buffer and get sanding discs of the right size and grit that will fit it. Or a combo of the chemical stripper followed by some 180 or 240 paper to clean it up and rough up the surface for the primer. I was very brief on the steps above If you have more ?'s feel free to ask
     
  13. LA Bogger

    LA Bogger 1/2 ton status

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    When I lived in Lousiana there was a guy that just painted tractors he would let you sand/bead blast for about 250.00 for the whole truck of course the sand was provided but if you had cheap sheet metal the bead blast was for the dippleable stuff... Just my .02

    Eat More Mud!!!
     
  14. I painted my hood a couple of weeks ago. I used a DA (dual action sander) first with 80 grit paper, and then with 240 grit. I only applied primer, but it turned out well, and was very quick. I estimate if I were to strip the whole truck down in that manner, it would take between 4-5 hours to completely sand it down for bodywork/primer prep.

    Alcoholism isn't a problem, it's a GOAL!!!!!!!
     
  15. TwoCrowsDesign

    TwoCrowsDesign 1/2 ton status

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    Jeff,

    I have a Porter Cable 5" random orbit sander and it rocks. I use it mostly for woodworking and it can eat some wood. It'll do a nice job on sheet metal.



    John
     
  16. TwoCrowsDesign

    TwoCrowsDesign 1/2 ton status

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    Hey, go rent a sand blaster for the weekend. Use that compressor to the fullest extent! You'll finish the whole thing in a day easy. I used to blast a half acre of i-beams in a morning, of course you'll want to be more careful than I was.

    Not sure I'd use a sand blaster on antique tin though so you might want to use a less aggressive method on your resto project.


    John
     
  17. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    thanks for all the input guys... I've considered a sand blaster, but I've heard that on the body you can warp it if you use it on one area too long. I don't really need the expense of having that problem without being able to practice on something.

    when I do my restore project I'll be purchasing a small cabinet sand blaster for small parts, and then renting a bigger one to do the frame etc.

    all in all I think I'll be looking at a DA. for the time being I'm still taking my wire wheel to the parts where there a dents. I'd like to get the under dents down to metal so the por-15 bondo type stuff I'll be using will stick better.

    I've got that nice paint that they screwed up at the factory so it flakes off. hence the reason I want to get the entire vehicle down to metal, or at least primer.

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     
  18. AGM73k5

    AGM73k5 1/2 ton status

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    I had luck stripping the floor of the cab of my rig with a plastic disk that attaches to a drill. It takes a little while but I couldn't see how it would damage the metal and it was quicker than using my orbital sander with plain sandpaper. I'll try to dig up more info for you if you want.

    -Aaron

    ___ __ _ _ ____ __
    AGM73k5 -- ajgm1@yahoo.com
    Speed limits? <a target="_blank" href=http://www.ibiblio.org/rdu/p-sl.html>http://www.ibiblio.org/rdu/p-sl.html</a>
     
  19. MOABDADC22

    MOABDADC22 1/2 ton status

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    Unless you are going for that Award Winning paint job with real heavy metal flake and a mural of The Virgin Mary on the hood, you don't really need to go down to the bare metal. Unless the original paint is lifting from the factory primer, save yourself alot of work and just "rough up" the paint. Trust me, when you start sanding to bare metal, you will find out that even the factory uses body filler.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.moabdadc22.alloffroad.com/>http://www.moabdadc22.alloffroad.com/</a>Real four wheelers don't need tools to remove body panels, paint, tail lights..etc.
     
  20. k5king

    k5king 1/2 ton status

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    OK,,i have done this on many many occasions unfortunately,,lol
    it will take you longer than 5 hours to do the whole rig,,trust me.it will more than likely take you 4 or 5 day's if your going to take it that far.
    # 1)screw the stripper.it's nasty,caustic and once you get enough on you it really really burn's and it will eat every piece of clothing you have on that day,,not to mention any rubber,chrome or stripping it get's on to.
    stripper is also bad because if you happen to find a " suprise " dent that has been filled in with a gallon of bondo,,then guess what,,it ALL has to come out and you will have to either fill it back in, or put new metal in there.

    # 2) get yourself a nice 5 or 6 inch orbital sander that spins and moves back and forth. i own a 5 incher from milwaukee and i have used it on about 6 different vehicles now,but it's elec. since i didn't have a big enough compressor to run something that can eat a ton of air fast.it seem's as though most places sell more of the 6 inch sanding paper than they do the 5,,but that's the local hardware shop's here( which i don't recomend buying paper form less you need it bad) go and find the closest body shop,,ask them what a good DA would be for doing such a job,,they'll prolly also tell you to get an air board, which makes thing's soooooo straight and nice,,but for the money,less you plan on doing another truck or 2,stick with a DA.
    while you are talking to them about that,,ask them of you can buy some ROLL'S of paper off them !! get one roll of 80, get one of 120 or 150 and then another of say 220 or 240 to fit the sander you decide on getting.but go look at sanders first so you know you can actually get a 6" wheel to fit your 6" paper,6 " wheel and 5 " paper doesn't work to well,,but 5 " wheel and 6" paper does just fine.
    now your going to drop some money for the roll's of paper,but you plan on using them later in the future im sure,,so this is not just a waste for one vehicle,buying 5 pad's at a time at the hardware store will cost you about 5 times of what that roll will.
    # 3) put masking tape on anyhting you do not want scratched that you do not plan on taking off(door handles and locks)doulbe it up on these cause a few swipes with a rough pad can go through one layer of tape in no time
    # 4) tape up your windows from the fuzzy stuff on up or you will get dust inside the truck you never thought possible.plus,,the dust just never seem's to come off less you really really scrub your windows.
    # 5) i should have put this first in the list
    <font color=red>GET A RESPIRATOR !!!!!!</font color=red> they can be found in almost any hardware store,hechingers,home depot,,they all sell them,,$30 to $50 depending on what they protect you from,,but the cheap ones work just fine for what you will be doing. trust me,,when you come in and blow your nose after 8 hours of sanding,,you'll see why !! you will be coughing up enough crap anyhow without making it worse.yes your going to eat some dust no matter what,it just get's in sometimes.
    also get yourself a set of goggles or something,those lame space goggles look funny,,but if you tape up the holes on top of them,,they work really well and keep the crap from your eyes.
    # 6) TAKE YOUR TIME !! i know you want to get this done and blow it down the road,,but if you want it to look halfway decent, spend a little time checking and re-checking your work. if you go over the thing and only use 5 #80 grit disc's,,you didn't hit nearly enough,but since your going to bare metal this should be a problem. once you do get to bare metal,,i do suggest that you sand it once while it is totally bare with the 180 pad's. almost no mater what you do your going to see scratches less you chunk on the filler primer or sand it in this way.
    # 7) DO ONE PIECE AT A TIME ! start sanding one piece and finish it that day,,trust me ! sand a fender with 80 till it's bare,then hit it with 180 or something else and then spray it in primer shortly after.if not,by the time you sand the whole truck down,,your going to have rust all over the place,,it will literally rust overnight and you WILL be able to see it. i suggest using the expensive can's of primer to do this,,the cheap stuff doesn't always work so great.if possible,,shoot it with a gun,,this will give you some feel for it before you start laying your color on.
    you don't need to worry about dust and such yet because your going to be sanding this off some anyhow,,but make sure it is clean though.just take a damp rag and wipe over the surface to pick off the dust,,or you can use tack cloth,the paint shop guy will have ton's of this also,,but i usually do both,, i wipe it with a damp cloth,,give it a few minutes to really dry,,then go over it with the tack cloth to get anything else. it will only take about 10 minutes for the primer to dry if you got it warm enough in there and then you can go right to work on another section. if you need to put in bondo or spot putty then do so and work on that till you got it right, then paint AROUND it,,let it sit overnight before you spray it with paint.it will dry better is all. primer is not a rust inhibitor so don't think you can primer it and then not worry about it,,the primer is just helping the paint stick,,it's not a true sealer like the base coat is.
    # 8) refer to #6 once again ! [​IMG]
    i know this is long but i feel it is something you know before you get to involved. im just trying to come at this from a " dummy" standpoint for someone who seem's like they have not done this before. " the hint was the wire wheel thing" [​IMG] been there,,done that ! lol

    <font color=green>THIS IS THE END OF YOUR LESSON FOR TODAY</font color=green>
    good luck,,you have got a lot of work ahead of you, i hope you stick to it,,and when your done,,no matter how good or bad it looks,, be proud you did it ! the next ones always better [​IMG]


    <font color=purple>ANYBODY LOSE THEIR JEEP????????[​IMG]
    I JUST FOUND ONE UNDER MY BLAZER!!!![​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]</font color=green>
     

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