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painting stock wheels

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 77Jimmy, Jun 2, 2003.

  1. 77Jimmy

    77Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    Is this possible? If so, what's the best stuff to use and how do I prep the wheel for painting? Finally, is it really worth it, meaning is the paint likely to flake, chip, etc, and I'll be back painting again in 6 months? Might try to find some used wheels, don't know, need some advice.

    I do light wheeling, nothing heavy duty. My stock wheels are corroded in places, I was thinking black might look better than silver w/ rust. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  2. CHEVY 4WD

    CHEVY 4WD 1/2 ton status

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    I havent done it but what I would do is
    Go to the local hardware store and get DAD's paint striper(a qt is like $9 and comes with a squirt bottle) after you strip them use a wire bush on any tough rust and inbtween teh crevises use a ligt grit sand paper over the the entire wheel then spray it down with mineral spirts to clean them up then hit it with like a 500grit piece of sand paper clean it with mineral spirets then really good with soap and water let it dry. Then get some rust inhibiting paint (mabe shoot down a primer first) do about 3 coats escpically if you dont use a primer.
     
  3. gravdigr

    gravdigr 1/2 ton status

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    I have done several rims. My first suggestion...avoid the hardware store rattle can crap at all costs. It is not designed tough enough and what will happen is when you tighten your lug nuts it will rub off the paint there. Then rust forms from the lug nut holes and spreads. I recently did my rims from my K5. I recommend getting them sandblasted if you really want em clean. I am a professional sandblaster and have done several rims. A set of 4 normal wear rims (no heavy brushed on coats of paint, no super thick rust) costs about 50$ to blast the outsides and beads (25$ per hour 1/2 hour per 15x8 rim). Once they were sandblasted I hit em with a self etching sealer/primer and painted em with my trim color (lime twist) in base/clear auto paint. I put about 4 coats of clear on em and let em sit a good week to harden before having the tires put on. That was 6 months ago and no peeling/flaking/rust yet.
     
  4. MousePowrd

    MousePowrd 1/2 ton status

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    I painted the stockers on my 88 and did the same thing as journeyman. I sandblasted them, and painted them the same blue as the two tone in my paint. In three years I did not have a problem with any flaking
     
  5. FL84K5

    FL84K5 1/2 ton status

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    I second gravedigr. I did a wrattlecan wheel job on my fronts and it's not holding up at all.
     
  6. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    My stock wheels are corroded in places, I was thinking black might look better than silver w/ rust.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I was going to say "then you can look like everyone else with no imagination, but I guess you could say the same for those of us that are still "stock".

    Seriously though, if you don't remove all the rust, and the peeling paint (such as with sandblasting) then even the best paint will just peel up as well.

    I rattle canned mine (argent is the color IIRC) and they look ok, but if you look closely (who does?) you can tell it's not a good paint job, with different thickness of paint and so on.

    Time spent trying to get all of the paint out of the nooks and crannies by hand is better spent at work earning the money to pay someone to sand blast them for you /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  7. 77Jimmy

    77Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks to all for the great info. Sounds like sandblasting is the way to go. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  8. SUBFAN

    SUBFAN 1/2 ton status

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    Yup....
     
  9. CHEVY 4WD

    CHEVY 4WD 1/2 ton status

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    Have you guys every tryed expoxy paint its sposta be extremely hard I guess its used alot for applinces
     
  10. gravdigr

    gravdigr 1/2 ton status

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    mmm, can't wait to have those steelies in avacado green /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  11. gravdigr

    gravdigr 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I painted the stockers on my 88 and did the same thing as journeyman. I sandblasted them, and painted them the same blue as the two tone in my paint. In three years I did not have a problem with any flaking

    [/ QUOTE ]

    who's journeyman? /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
     
  12. BRN78BLAZER

    BRN78BLAZER 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    who's journeyman?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    LMAO that's funny /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  13. 77Jimmy

    77Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    Another follow-up ? if I might...what kind of painting equipment do you need to do what you are talking about? I'm totally onboard w/ the sandblasting, but I'm just a weekend warrior w/ a limited set of tools...no real high tech painting tools other than a paintbrush. I'm assuming you're using some really nice professional body shop type paint tools???
     
  14. gravdigr

    gravdigr 1/2 ton status

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    I used a HVLP gravity feed spray gun. The main reason I got it was ththat the money I spent on the gun ($100) would be more than made up by the paint I'd save from overspray from a cheapie 25$ gun. That being said if you aren't going to be painting much, will be using cheap paint, and can work outside or in a garage with an exhaust fan go ahead and get yourself a cheap spraygun. I did our 2 shop trucks with my cheapie spraygun and industrial enamel and they came out great. I'm sure it would work with rims just as well. The trick with rims is you have to move fast because the curves will cause runs. I suggest painting the backs first until you get the hang of it. In the end you will have a small investment in the gun, paint, reducer, hardner, etc.... but you will have these items in the future should you decide your springs are looking funky and need repainted (add flex additive in the paint for springs, it is made for plastic bumpers and will not crack when the springs flex). Or maybe you wanna clean up your drums and paint em. Eventually you will want to take a crack at painting your trail rig.

    I am assuming you have a compressed air source...every wrencher should have one.
     
  15. 77Jimmy

    77Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the great info! Unfortunately I don't have a compressor /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif , but I quickly realized this afternoon when I took off my wheel that I'm going to need one! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    Question...what's the best way to go about finding a professional sandblaster? I've searched the internet for my local area and all I'm getting are commercial type operations doing heavy duty jobs and such. Would a local paint and body shop have a professional sandblaster?

    Quick cost analysis...$50 to get 4 rims sandblasted and what, another $50 to get them painted like you did??? I've found some used rims (4) that are in good shape that I think I can get for $125-150ish. What do you think?
     
  16. camiswelding

    camiswelding 1/2 ton status

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    SANDBLAST AND POWDERCOAT THEM... FOR ALL THE HASSLE OF STRIPPING THEM WHY NOT HAVE THEM LOOK NICE AND NOT RUST FOR YEARS...
    I used to own a powdercoating company and you should know if you pick a color that is regularly shot (like black) usually you can waggle a deal... takes about 5 bucks of powder and 20 minutes real labor to clean and shoot five wheels... you should be able to get them done for 10 bucks a wheel if they are clean
    My black ralleys and the stockers I did on my dually still look like new after a couple of years
    cam
     
  17. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    If you can get the color you want in powder coat, do it.
    Otherwise wire wheel out all the rusty spots and maybe take a little sand paper to even out the high/low spots.
    Use a can of black primer (sorry I use rattle cans!).
    Pick your color and do two coats with 6-8hrs in between, put on a coat of clear and your in business. I had my first painting last about 6 years. I just repainted them again about a week ago.... with rattle cans again!
    [​IMG]

    OH, used the auto place duplicolor black primer and Winter Blue (M). Very cool stealy blue.
     
  18. 77Jimmy

    77Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    camsk5 and jjlaughner,
    thanks for the info...I like the sandblast and powdercoating route...now all i have to do is find someone! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    jjlaughner,
    nice looking wheel...i like that steely blue...looks sharp. i'm probably going to go w/ a black powder coat look though...going to go for an allover black, white, and chrome theme. i don't know how much longer I can stand the white and poop brown that i have now! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  19. gravdigr

    gravdigr 1/2 ton status

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    If you can get it definatly powdercoat em. One place people don't think to look for sandblasting is monument dealers. Many shops, like the one I work in, order in monument "blanks" which are cut and polished with no info on em. When a monument is sold rubber stancil is placed on the blank and the design is cut out. Then the monument is sandblasted. Most of these shops can handle most items other than really big stuff like full auto frames. If you go ask if you can talk to the sandblaster yourself as chances are the salesman knows nothing about it. Then the sandblaster can get a feel for what you want. Some guys want totally clean for serious restorations, which can take a long time and cost more. Others just want the nastiness blasted off and a little thin paint in a corner or shadows of primer do not bother them since it will not be inspected at a car show with a micrometer.

    Also unless the shop is specifically set up for it do not take body panels to be sandblasted. The sand and pressure used for monument sandblasting will warp them from the heat. Poly or walnut shell media is required for the thin metal of body panels. In my shop I have done everything from cast iron furniture and railings, to auto parts and rims, to motorcycle and 4 wheeler frames.
     
  20. 77Jimmy

    77Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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