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Payed for a 25X44 building

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by dontoe, Jul 30, 2005.

  1. dontoe

    dontoe 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Got a good deal, I think. Got a 25X44 foot U.S. Steel building with steel ends for under $10,000.00. Have to put it up myself, but that shouldn't be to rough. Didn't include the garage doors, just the openings. Have to check around for the best price on the doors. 8X10 is the opening size. And need the concrete pad poured of course. I ain't gonna do the concrete, I hate messing with it.
     
  2. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    What style??

    Is it a truss framed building??--or a quonset style?..ten grand isn't all that outrageous at todays prices for building materials...I paid just over 4K for the 20X40 Quonset style garage I built at my parents house in 1992,just for the building with no endwalls..I've probably got 8K total into it between the cost of the building,excavation for the foundation,having the walls,footers,and floor poured,extending the asphalt driveway to reach the garage door,etc..

    It does not take long to spend LOTS of cash when it comes to building anything now.. :doah: good thing I DID do it then,because I'm broke now--at least I had a place to work indoors since then..I dont know if I'll get to stay here when my mom passes on..I HOPE all my money and effort was not for nothing,but its her house,and I have no say in the matter... :doah: :(

    I prefer a steel or cinder block building for a garage,at least it cant catch fire if the woods nearby burn,and its harder to burn it down with torches and welder sparks..!..I bet cinder blocks are cheaper than wood or metal construction nowadays,depending on mason's labor costs... :crazy:
     
  3. big_truxx

    big_truxx 1/2 ton status

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    for a stick built garage I will be spending roughly 6k thats with cement and trusses and roof and insulation and everything. but i like to build a whole project myself including cement :waytogo:
     
  4. dontoe

    dontoe 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    This is similar, but I'll have normal garage doors. Those big ones were about $5000.00 apiece.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. muscle

    muscle 1/2 ton status

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    metal scmetal!

    im a general contractor in Az and i would never build a metal accessory building for myself. they are noisy rattle cans. harder to heat and cost alot to insulate. I would say for your building size the wood package for 12' walls to be around 7000. this would include either a verticle or horizontal masonite siding. Add 2500 for trusses and that would be a scissor so you end up with approx 14' at the interior peak.
    what you end up with is a quieter, warmer building that doesnt stick out like a 1950's aircraft hanger on your property. insulate it, add sheetrock later if you wish.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Stoner42

    Stoner42 Registered Member

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    I used to profesionally install garage doors-dont buy them from a lumber yard, or chain hardware store. Buy from a contractor or overhead door company. There is a huge quality difference. A little extra cost now will save a lot of headaches in the future. Midland garage doors are the best I ran across.
     
  7. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Looks familiar!!


    Thats nearly identical to my garage,only bigger!..mine has straight sidewalls for the first 4' or so before the "arch" starts.I had the company cut down the straight panels,they were 72" tall,and that would have made the roof 18' high--its now 13' at the peak--it would have been taller than our house had I left them stock height--if it were my decision,I'd have left it taller,so I could have had an "upstairs",but my dad didn't want a huge garage dwarfing the house--I was lucky my parents let me build it at all,so I had to follow their wishes..

    You can get "gable" style ones now too,that resemble a standard house or garage with trussed roofs(^) for a bit more cash--thats how I got mine cheap,it would normally have cost 6500 bucks,but someome backed out of the deal in favor of the gable roof syle instead,and Steelmaster accepted my offer for 4 grand...the cost minus the deposit they had already paid..

    Plus I bought no endwalls,I built my own out of 2x4's and plywood,and put overhead doors on--those "airplane hanger" doors are flimsy,and would last about a week here--a few similar buildings nearby had the doors ripped off in the wind,and ice and snow freezes them solid in the winter!..so I not only made it look better,it is more functional as well...

    I have yet to instal or get a "back" door--the opening is blocked off with plywood--never had the money to get one yet...now I'm thinking a back door might invite theives,since its blocked from veiw--but the building codes require 2 exits,so technically its illegal the way it is! :doah: --so at least a "walk in" rear door should be installed--either that or I'll have to use my chain saw or sawsall to get out if the front gets blocked!! :rolleyes:

    Yes,it is a bit noisy inside when it rains or snows--insulating them is costly,but not very difficult(I've seen some sprayed with that foam stuff on the outside!)...one sales point I liked is the fact you could remove the building and move it,or take it with you if you leave!--but I would not look foreward to unscrewing 3500 bolts and nuts,and trying to separate the arches after the butyl caulking has set for 14 years..but if I get pissed enough I will,if my siblings decide to sell the place when my mom passes!..The entire building could be hauled away in a pickup truck or a van--only weighs 3500 lbs,and consists of 10' "banannas" made of steel,and some straight panels!..

    My building has survived 3 blizzards with over 3' of snow and ice so far in its 14 years-(though a few other larger ones nearby were flattenned!--the wider ones over 30-35' are not so strong)---the steel arches are still like new,but many of the bolts are rusty as hell... :mad:

    I wish they had supplied stainless bolts instead of cadnuim plated ones,but at least the building itself has held up remarkably well!..I smashed a front end loader into one side ,I was backfilling the foundation and the tractor sunk in some mud--when I tried pullling it out with my truck,its wheels turned,and it slammed the side of the building hard with the bucket!...but it hardly even dented it! ;) --I thought it was going to collapse,going by the sound it made!.. :eek1: ..but no real harm done!.. :laugh:

    I'm very satisfied with my quonset garage,I feel I got my money's worth out of it...and it appears it will last onther 20 years easy if none of the big trees near it dont fall on it..It raised our house value 30,000 bucks,(to my mothers dismay,because taxes increased too :doah: ) but for an 8K dollar investment,it was well worth it if you ask me.. :crazy:
     
  8. dontoe

    dontoe 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I think the peak will be 13 feet. A friend at work has a brother who just had his similar building sprayed with foam. He's supposed to let me know who and how much it costs. He also said I could come out almost as cheap to let a local overhead door company come and install the doors. Guess I'll do that.

    I got some estimates on the block or stick built and for a 18X24 they were both about the same price, around $18,000.00. Anything larger went way over $20,000.00.

    I really wanted wider but I bought one someone paid on and canceled. Saved quite a bit there. Also I agreed to let salesmen drop by to view the outside with potential customers and got an additional discount plus $200.00 each time they come by, and a commission if I refer someone.

    Oh, yea. I got a metal cutting band-saw and a 5000 lb cap. pallet jack last week in a closed bid, both for $70.00!
     
  9. big_truxx

    big_truxx 1/2 ton status

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    what about holmes (sp?) that have been at it since like 1912. they any good?
     
  10. big_truxx

    big_truxx 1/2 ton status

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    spray on isnt cheap. and neither will your doors be. im not trying to rain on yer parade just telling it like it is. and i have no idea what construction costs are in your neck of the woods. :( but here in maine building my 28x32 garage myself i will be around 6k with slab, frame, trusses, rooved, closed in insulated and sheetrock. i will make my own barn style doors as a temp till the house is done and then i will go buy nice doors. thas building it all myself.
     
  11. i8yrsuv

    i8yrsuv 1/2 ton status

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    I would check out the doors with the peoples that you bought the building with ,,,,...have the shipped with your order .That way you dont have to pay for extra shipping !!!!
    Also,
    Diffenality, make sure the; #1 plans and the #2 engineered drawings & # 3 structual calculations are inculded with the price of the building !!!! Steel building guys are the Whores of the industry ..!!! I think they are are the used car sales men of the 2000 !!
    I am General Building Contractor in Wine County Cal.
    Cheers
     
  12. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    Check with Rob, theRobZilla on here, he is a district manager or something for "overhead door" i think it is... he may be able to get you in touch with some people in your area.
    grant
     
  13. Stoner42

    Stoner42 Registered Member

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    Never heard of holmes. Best way to tell is the gauge of metal in the panels and tracks. You also want rollers with bearings, and full lenth channel for the tracks(where they mount to the wall)not L - brackets.
     
  14. Brocky

    Brocky 1/2 ton status

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    Muscle

    The big door must be for your rig and the small one for the wife's rig. :D
     
  15. muscle

    muscle 1/2 ton status

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    lol , that building is 30' x 50' and it had bay doors on both sides. (drive thru)the larger door is so you can drive a backhoe in to service it.

    also some thing you can do with a stemwall foundation that you cannot do with a monolithic slab (ie quonset hut) is to slope the slab. If you look at the photo showing the interior and compare the slab line to the stemwall grout lines you can see it is sloped towards the door opening. Makes it real nice if your spraying out the shop or if you drive your snowy car in. It will drain out the door instead of puddle. The slope is not noticeable when your standing on it.
     
  16. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    foundation...

    I wanted to put my quonset on a "floating slab" ,but the building inspector didn't like the idea--he said all garages here need to have footings and walls just like a house foundation,so I had to dig 3' to get below the frost line and do it as he suggested.(he was especially anal about the footers having a "keyway" in them--guess all inspectors have a peeve! :screwy: )..


    It actually was a bit cheaper to do it this way--a floating slab takes a bit more concrete,and the contractors are familiar with "standard" construction,so they dont charge extra...plus I raised the building up another foot or so off the ground,and I was able to have the floor poured as you suggested,with the center slightly higher than the ends,so water runs outside!...another plus is if I do take the building down if I move,another house or garage could be framed in wood on the existing foundation.. :laugh: (good for the NEXT guy!)...

    I strongly suggest NEW overhead doors of good quality!--I "saved" some money by removing a 10x10 door from a warehouse where my brother works I got free when they expanded the building and were removing the wall where it was..I busted my ass removing it--nearly got killed taking the "torsion" springs tension off,and I was 30' in the air on a platform--and I had to haul it 80 miles home!---It took the better part of 2 weeks before I got the tracks to work,and the door up..its a heavy oak wooden B'tard too--a fiberglass one would have been a better choice...the door works,but no power opener!--and it really should be replaced..so much for "savings" huh?? :doah: :crazy: it pays not to be cheap sometimes! :doah: .

    I doubt I'll ever insulate my shop--its been very cold in there,but a wood stove heats it up enough to make winter chores bearable-(I use 55 gallon drum wood stoves,1 in the garage,another in a small "BTU "room I made by closing in one corner of the garage..)..the Quonset is pretty airtight,it holds the heat pretty good despite being bare metal..I stay in the house most of the time if its TOO cold out--either that or burn a cord of wood every week! :crazy:
     
  17. DesertDueler2

    DesertDueler2 1/2 ton status

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    Hey muscle, where can I get a garage kit like that(in AZ)? I am looking for one right now, but have only found metal, and plastic ones. I would really like a wood one.

    Dan
     
  18. muscle

    muscle 1/2 ton status

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    desert:

    the garage in the photo is not a "kit". it is built from a lumber package on a foundation which we construct. footage price for this as a shell built by a licensed contractor here in AZ would be approx $22/sf. but an individual with some friends on weekends can build it for much cheaper. I do know for fact that chandler has an extremely vigilant building department that rivals LA county. if you decide to build, i suggest several meetings with them to get all their requirements.

    diesel4me:

    there is no differance in the foundation requirements for a quonset hut and wood structure. there should absolutely be a complete footing under your building per ibc, and local code. the keyway your inspector describes is required when you pour the footing and later pour the slab on top so that the two "key" into eachother and function as one, deminishing any lateral deflection.

    a floating slab is exactly what it is. it is separate from the footings and stemwall foundation. the pics i provided show a floating slab.

    a monolythic (mono poured) slab is essentially the same as pouring the footing separate (with keyway) then pouring slab except it is all poured at one time. it is almost impossible to provide a slope to the concrete because the building rests on the slab which would mean your building would follow the slope. I suppose one could add extra forms to a mono slabe to create a slope but the cost would be astronomical. therefor a stemwall would certainly be the way to go.

    quonset huts, i do believe are primarily built on mono slabs either 1 pour or multi poured.
     
  19. dontoe

    dontoe 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I plan on having the local Overhead door company install the doors. Friends said that they are about the same price as going to Lowe's/Home Depot and buying them.

    Delivery will be free, as I'm buying from the manufacturer in Boone, about 30 miles away. Save $450.00 shipping. The building is on a pallet weighing about 3500 lbs. Owner said I could get it on a car hauler easily. Pad with footings is going to be close to $4,000.00 for the finished pad.
     
  20. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Prices went up a lot in 13 years!

    It costed me about 1800 to have the floor poured in my garage,they did all the excavation and prep work(that included the concrete)..It was an another 1500 for the foundation walls,footings,and excavation..almost cost more than the garage did!...but I guess its a lot more to do today,concrete was "only" 55 bucks a yard for "fibermesh" for the floor ..a bit less for the walls and footers..I was not impressed with the fibermesh concrete--I wish I had spent 100 more bucks and put the steel mesh or other reinforcement in,because the slab cracked like a busted windsheild about a month later--but it hasnt moved or lost and chunks...

    I got my building from "Steelmaster",a company out of VA...but when it was delivered,the bill of lading said it was made by "Future" Steel Buildings in Brampton Ontario Canada..!--I see ads with their name in the classifieds in the back of Hot Rod magazines and others now,so I guess Steelmaster might not make all of their buildings,but subcontracts them to other companies..

    They called me up a few times,and wanted to know if I was willing to let prospective customers to veiw my building,so they could see what they were getting before buying--I said sure,no problem,and I added I wished I could have had one to see "for real",I was very aprehensive about sending thousands of dollars to buy something I could not see!..but I was familiar with Quonsets to a degree,as the junkyard I worked at had one that was erected in 1970,and held up very well to adverse conditions..

    They sent me 100 dollar checks every time a person who veiwed my garage decided to buy one--I made over 500 bucks,just giving giuded tours! :bow: --I wasn't upset with that at all!...If I were in better health,I'd open a franchise building the smaller sized buildings--you can get them as small as 10' wide,and any length you want..(they asked me if I wanted to be a reigonal factory rep!)--but building my Quonset was enough for me!--I never realized just how much hard work it is to put up a garage,even a pre fab one!
    :eek1:

    .People here are tired of their wooden sheds being broken into,and their Harleys,riding mowers,and quads being stolen--I think a small Quonset would be cheaper,and harder to get into than a wooden shed is..some vandals burn them too,just for laughs.. :eek1: ..
     

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