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Pick-up coil in distributor?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Esteban86K5, Jul 18, 2001.

  1. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

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    O.K. so I had some electrical problems this Monday coming home from Blazer-fest. I was doing 75 down the freeway when the motor just died. I made sure all the wires were hooked up correctly and then checked for a spark and nothing. I had the ignition module tested at NAPA today and they said it was good. I replaced the coil about 3 weeks ago so I don't think it's that. Someone mentioned that there is a "pick-up" coil inside the distributor and that it may need to be replaced. How hard is it to replace and do you have any tips on how to do it? I'm going to take the coil out of my neighbors Chevy and put it on mine to make sure that it's not the coil even tough it's new. But I don't think he'll take kindly to me taking off the complete dist. to check mine. All the repair shops that I called said they can't test the dist. when it's out of the vehicle. And I don't want to get bent over by one of those shops if the job is simple. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. BTW it's an 86 Blazer w/ a 350

    <font color=blue>Esteban</font color=blue>

    <font color=red>SEMPER FI TO MY BLAZER
     
  2. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    Thsi is actually a really easy job. Take off the dist cap, and mark the position of the rotor, then mark the position of the dist in relation to the intake manifold. Unscrew the hold down screw and hold down piece and take them out. Now grab the distributor, and pull it out. It may be a little hard to get out, but should come out eventually. Look on the bottom of the dist, and there is a hole, which has a hollow pin, called the roll pin. Drive it out with a tool, and the gear will come off. Now the shaft will slide out, it may need some WD40 to get it to move freely though. The pickup coil should be accessable now. To put the dist back in, just do the opposite of these steps...make sure you mark the position of everything, makes it a lot easier. Hope this helps.

    90K5

    See my truck at <a target="_blank" href=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Albumindex?u=1329584&a=9886502>http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Albumindex?u=1329584&a=9886502</a>
     
  3. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

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    Would you happen to know the cost of the pick-up coil? And while I have it apart, is there anything else I should replace?

    <font color=blue>Esteban</font color=blue>

    <font color=red>SEMPER FI TO MY BLAZER
     
  4. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    WHOA!!!!! Hold on a second big shooters... before you go and shell out bucks for the part w/ no proof why don't you double check the spark situation w/ a proper tester. Next why don't you see if you have power at the distributor? If you have power in and no power out it probably leaves the pickup coil, otherwise you could have a number of non-distributor problems,

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm>http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm</a>
     
  5. sjeccles

    sjeccles Registered Member

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    I just bought a pick-up coil at Autozone for 7.99

    90 K5 jimmy
     
  6. johnnysjimmy

    johnnysjimmy Registered Member

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    Yeah, pickup ciols are cheap and even if that doesn't fix the problem its cheap insurance that yours is now good to go

    73' GMC Jimmy 8" lift and 35" tires.....14 boltff and big 10 bolt on the way
     
  7. RaisedK5

    RaisedK5 1/2 ton status

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    That was the problem with mine a few years back, just remember theres a little snap ring around the shaft holding on the pickup coil, don't do what i did and take out those three screws on the coil, cause i'll fall apart, but not come off, if you want to wait untill sun i'll come help, but i'm guessing you want to get it rollin before then huh?

    Leland aka RaisedK5

    "Of all the things I've lost, I think I miss my mind the most!"
    "Are the voices in my head bothering you?
     
  8. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

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    As of right now I might not have time to do it before Sunday so I may take you up on that offer. I'm going to check to make sure that there is power going to the dist before I take it out. Hopefully there is power and the problem is the pickup coil. Sounds like an easy fix. Wish me luck.

    <font color=blue>Esteban</font color=blue>

    <font color=red>SEMPER FI TO MY BLAZER
     
  9. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    Dude that sucks. Do you have a volt meter? That is what you need to test the p/u coil and the ign. coil. I don't think mine will do AC volts which I think is how you test the p/u. The ign. coil is tested for continuity.

    If you need some help I am free Fri & Sat but not Sun. You can barrow my volt meter if you want also.

    '71 Blazer CST w/ a 400sbc, 4" lift, 36" Supper Swampers, and alot of rust
     
  10. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

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    Unfortunately I don't have a volt meter. I might just get one cause they seem to come in handy. Do I get one that does AC and continuity? Both words of which I know little of. The only time I have on Saturday is early morning before 10. If you want to come by Friday night, I should be home no later than 6:30. The wife will be out of town so I've got all night to work on the Blazer. Leland are you up for coming down Friday night? Let's have a Fest reunion!!!! Kind of too early huh? Who cares, come by anyways. Give me a call. 310-308-5096.

    <font color=blue>Esteban</font color=blue>

    <font color=red>SEMPER FI TO MY BLAZER
     
  11. Thunder

    Thunder 3/4 ton status

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    You dont use a volt meter to check the pickup coil or the coil.
    You need to use a OHM meeter. Normal resistance between the leads on the pickup coil is 500-1500 OHMs. replace the pickup if the resistance is out of these specs.

    To check the coil. The resistance between the tach and bat terminals should be 0. Resistance between the bat and the rotor button and the ground and rotor button should be 6000-30000 ohms.

    1 thing to check before you do the avove tests.
    Besure that you have around 12 volts to the bat terminal on the coil. If not the resistor wire feeding power to the coil may be bad or have a bad connection somewhere.
    If you buy a volt meter get a Multi meter that reads AC and DC volts and OHMs. An AC meter will do you no good. All vehicles operate on DC not AC

    <font color=orange> You are just jealous, because the voices only talk to me.</font color=orange>
     
  12. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    On meters..get a "multimeter" (as opposed to a voltmeter, which is worthless in some cases) with it you can measure continuity, resistance, AC and DC, and a few other things. I bought mine at radio shack for about $60, but that was before I knew to look around. BUT that $60 multimeter is still going 9 years later, so its paid for itself about 100 times.

    Make sure you get a digital one. Better to blow a fuse than melt an analog unit : )

    If you get a fancier model, it will even be able to measure temperature, which I would LOVE to have. Get a probe, you could measure intake air temp, water temp, you name it. Just get some extra long wires, run them to the cab, and drive!

    Dorian
    My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
    No anti-theft measures on your truck? No pity when its stolen
     
  13. RaisedK5

    RaisedK5 1/2 ton status

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    I earliest i can get up there is Sun, i do have a multi meter though, if you want to wait i can come up on sun morn, and we'll fix that thing, ya reunion, we can bust out some beers, and the bar b q, and talk about Chata. If you need to call me, 949-285-1098

    Leland aka RaisedK5

    "Of all the things I've lost, I think I miss my mind the most!"
    "Are the voices in my head bothering you?
     

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