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Pics of my new Suburban! Can you indentify a couple things?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Hoss, Oct 26, 2001.

  1. Hoss

    Hoss Registered Member

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    I've created a page for my new Suburban (I posted about getting it a few days ago).

    There is a link on the right side to a bunch of pictures. The other Suburban links are not working yet.

    Can anyone identify the transfer case and axels for me? Thanks!

    <a target="_blank" href=http://theonespot.com/myrides/suburban/default.asp>http://theonespot.com/myrides/suburban/default.asp</a>


    -C
     
  2. azblazor

    azblazor 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Looks like a NP208 transfer case and a Corp 10 bolt front. The rear is probable a SF, I can't tell from the pics. But if the hub protruds out through the center of the wheel then it's a Full Floater. Nice find! Have fun.

    <font color=blue>azblazor</font color=blue>
    <font color=orange> 79 K5 454-FI / 4L80E, NP205, D60, FF14, 4" lift, 9K Warn </font color=orange>
     
  3. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    Cool ride, I have an 81 Burb but just a C20.
    Your rear axle is a 14 bolt semi-floater and the front is a corporate10 bolt. T-case is a 208.
    Nice clean lookin Burb.


    <font color=green> Too bad ignorance isn't painful </font color=green>
     
  4. Hoss

    Hoss Registered Member

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    Thanks!

    What exactly is the difference between the SF and the FF? Which one is better with the idea that the truck will be lifted?

    Since I'm gonna be lifting the truck and putting on about 40 inch tires, do I need to replace the front axle?


    -C
     
  5. MaxCrack

    MaxCrack 1/2 ton status

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    I know I know (if I remember correctly that is). The Semi Floater (SF) uses the axle shaft to support part of the weight of the truck (has to do with how the bearings are set up) The Full Floater (FF) puts no weight on the axle shafts, which means less stress on them and that is a good thing. So if you have a choice, go with the Full Floater.

    A computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me at kick boxing.
    <a target="_blank" href=http://photos.yahoo.com/dana60manual>http://photos.yahoo.com/dana60manual</a>
     
  6. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    If you are going to wheel with 40" tires I would defintity replace the front axle. Street only trucks get away with 40's on a 10 bolt, but the first time you took it wheeling it would most likely die a horrible death. The semi floater 14 bolt is a pretty strong axle, but I am not sure it would handle 40" tires either. I would just get a 14BFF and a D60 and not worry about if your axles are going to explode. I have heard of 38's on heavily modified 10 bolt fronts, but that costs alot.

    My Chevy isn't broken, its just out of gas.
     
  7. four_by_ken

    four_by_ken 1/2 ton status

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    Depending on your type of wheeling, those axles could be fine with 40s. Personally I blow up 10 bolt fronts when I run it hard. But, I can conserve and make them last.

    And I have a buddy that destroys Dana 60s even with 35 spline stub shafts. All depends on the power and setup of the truck, driving attitude, and terrain.

    The rear semi-float should be fine for most anything. The front will be the weak spot if you get real nasty.

    Ken H.


    '85 K5 in process
     
  8. outlaw612

    outlaw612 1/2 ton status

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    I believe the SF is a c-clip design which means if you break an axle, there is nothing to hold the wheel on. Id go with a 14ff

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/outlaw613/K5.html>http://www.geocities.com/outlaw613/K5.html</a>
     
  9. four_by_ken

    four_by_ken 1/2 ton status

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    Very good point about the c-clip.

    But, not everyone has the money to just plop a new axle in their truck, when there isnt really anything wrong with the one they have. I believe there is a c-clip eliminator kit out there.

    Ken H.

    '85 K5 in process
     
  10. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    FF caries the weight on a hub (like the front) so you don't even need the axle to keep rolling, although without it you loose the lube and things get gritty. SF is like a 10B, 12B, or C14SF where there is no hub and the axle turns inside of a bearing, which supports the weight of the truck. However, at least SF will stay in place (like a Ford 9" but unlike a 10B or 12B) as long as the axle breaks in-board of the outer bearing. This is because the bearing is pressed on (or otherwise locked in place) and bolted to the housing. Now, I've never fooled with a 14SF myself to speak of the specifics but, that is my understanding of the differences.

    BTW, the rear axle is one place I don't want to mess around with. For a truck with big tires (over 35) that actually sees any (even moderately) serious off road use, FF is where it is at. No way do I want another C-clip rear! Gotta love (not!) limping out of an otherwise nice trail run, using the front axle to pull, and stopping repeatedly to jack it up and push the broken axle back in. That's if you are lucky and it breaks near the carrier (lucky that is unless you break the carrier which I have done) giving you enough shaft to limp out on. Been there, done that, don't ever want to do it again. FF all the way!

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  11. Hoss

    Hoss Registered Member

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    I don't suppose that SF can be converted to FF?

    -C
     
  12. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Sure, it's an easy 2 step process. First, remove the 14SF axle from the vehicle. Second, bolt a 14FF axle in. See, no problem. [​IMG]

    All kidding aside, anything is possible. However, I don't know of any easy way todo that to a 14FF, other than as described above. They make FF kits for some axles but I don't know of any for the 14SF.

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  13. Burbinator

    Burbinator 1/2 ton status

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    Nice truck; congratulations!

    Looks like the previous posts have it covered for ID on the axles and t-case.

    In your write up on your website, you have the truck listed as a "C20". That would be a 2 wheel drive 3/4T. "K20" is the proper designator of your truck. Just some FYI.

    The learning curve is a toll road...ride with someone who has already paid!
    <a target="_blank" href=http://photos.yahoo.com/abshort1>My Naval Fleet</a>
     
  14. riz

    riz 3/4 ton status

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    <font color=purple> Do 14ff come in 6 lug ?

    L8r,
    . Riz . <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/rizmonkey>www.geocities.com/rizmonkey</a>

    <font color=purple> BOW CHICKA BOW WOW !
     
  15. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Nope. The snout on the hub is too big. Although, some people do turn them down on a lathe. Hmm, was that Dorian that does that? Not sure, I like 8 lugs anyway so I didn't pay much attention...

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  16. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    They have 15" rims for the 14BFF that way you can reuse your existing tires. I think Donavon was the one who made the 6 lug full floater. Could be wrong.

    My Chevy isn't broken, its just out of gas.
     
  17. outlaw612

    outlaw612 1/2 ton status

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    I understand that money is tight, it is for me too. I was just trying to bring up the idea of the c-clip.

    Also, I have no personal experience with the c-clip eliminators, but I hear they have a leaking problem.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/outlaw613/K5.html>http://www.geocities.com/outlaw613/K5.html</a>
     
  18. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Yeah, I think your right, I believe it was Donovan. At least I got the "D" right. [​IMG] The 15" 8 lug steel wheels will fit over the 14FF drums with no problems. Although, some (most? all? not sure, I know steel is the only option for 15s over 8 lug rotor/calipers) aluminum will not fit. If someone is currently running stock wheels, your outa luck, no 15" 8 lug factories exist. That means at best, assuming you can find matching wheels for your front, you will have to carry 2 spares. Even a sub doesn't have that much space to "spare" (pun intended). I expect the FF hubs could be turned down and modified for little more than a pair of 8 lug 15" steels. Then, you can keep the matched wheels, a single spare, and get a 14FF too.

    Or, what I would recommend instead, go all 8 lug all the way with 15" 8 lug steel rock crawlers all around. But, that is just me, a 4WD just "looks right" on 8 lugs plus you get better brakes, a stronger wheel mount, AND a bulletproof back axle.

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  19. Hoss

    Hoss Registered Member

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    ahhh, good catch. I changed it. Thanks!

    -C
     
  20. Hoss

    Hoss Registered Member

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    So how do you determine if its an SF or FF, especially from the few pictures of the axel I have on my site? I just went out and took off the hub. The wheels are 16 inch rims with 8 lugs.

    Theres a post above that mentions if the hub protudes out the center of the wheel, then its an FF. How far does it have to protrude out? The center hole in the rim is quite large, the edges of the hole is pretty close to the lugs and the hub does come through the hole, but not very much.

    -C
     

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