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Pics of my powder coated K5

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by rampage, Nov 27, 2001.

  1. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    I finally got around to scanning the pics of my powder coated K5. Still have to paint the cab though. <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun56> Powder coated K5 </a>
     
  2. I thought powder coating was baked on !!!!

    [​IMG]<font color=red>BigBurb[​IMG]
    <font color=purple>I Like my Burb'n on the ROCKS !!
    <font color=black>Imported to Kentucky through military channels !!
     
  3. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    Right you are! Everything was unbolted, stripped down to bare metal and coated (all but the passenger quarter panel).
     
  4. hammer

    hammer 1/2 ton status

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    How much did the cab cost to do? And how big is there oven.
     
  5. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    I haven't done the cab yet, that needs to be painted not powder coated. Their oven was about 15 by 10 feet. But they did it piece by piece so the size of the oven didn't matter.
     
  6. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    Looks awsome! How/where did you find a plcae to do that? Seems like a cool idea. Should be interesting how it holds up

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch</a>
     
  7. michaelm

    michaelm 1/2 ton status

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    how much $$$?
     
  8. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    "Hand sanded smooth"! I bet that was quite a workout! It looks great.

    '71 Blazer CST w/ a 400sbc, 4" lift, 36" Supper Swampers, and alot of rust
    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/triaged>See it Here </a>
     
  9. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    I went to 4 powder coating companies and they all said they'd do it. I made my decision on who I thought did the best quality work and who was most interested. It turned out to be a place just a couple miles away from me. And as luck would have it there was a company a block away from the powder coater that chemically stripped all the parts and dipped them in phosphate (to prevent rusting). The guy who did the powder coating put on two coats and also did the inside of all the parts. I took a mirror inside all the parts and couldn't find any place that didn't get coated. The powder coating cost was just under $2k (for 8 parts) and the chemical stripping was $800. A quality body shop wanted well over $4k to strip and paint it so this was actually cheaper, although an expensive experiment [​IMG]. I've always wondered how this process would turn out so I had to end my curiousity. Then the fun of sanding began ... I lost track of the time I spent on that but it was WELL over 80 hours ... and I don't want to see another piece of sand paper for a very long time! [​IMG]. I started off with 600 grit then went to 1000 then ended with 2000 grit and it was sitll over twice as thick as a normal paint job (I bought a depth gauge to measure how thick the powder coat is). After that I used some rubbing compound and then finished it off with Carnuba (sp) wax. It would have looked okay without the sanding but I wanted that shine and besides that it kept me out of trouble [​IMG] We'll see how well it holds up to the environment (branches, UV rays, flung open doors, etc) ...

    And a special thanks to Pugsley for all the help with the body questions that I had. [​IMG]
     
  10. MudNurI

    MudNurI 1/2 ton status

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    I'm going to do that to my nerf bars, brush guard, tail light covers, and maybe rims, if there really ugly- why did you sand it? I thought powder coating was suppose to look " like it had little bumps/holes" ( forgive me for I can not describe the look. I just thought part of the process of powder coating was the look you acheived? No? I'm not sanding anything of mine down- it will be black and silver, and stay that way- kind of neat, I saw a p/u with it at the Vermont jamboree--
    --Brandy

    IF ONLY THE 4 YEAR OLD COULD TURN A WRENCH
    1986 K5 4" skyjacker suspension 3 " body, 14 bolt rear 12 bolt dana 44 front, TIRED ol 305-
     
  11. tlarsw

    tlarsw 1/2 ton status

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    If you're going to "USE" this vehicle offroad, don't spend the money powder coating nerf bars, bumpers or anything else you plan on rubbing.

    I had my bumpers powdercoated and they looked really nice when they were first done. Wait until you rub them on the rocks and the powder coat gets scratched off. Then you have to try and cover up the bare metal and make it match.

    Much easier and cheaper to just use a rattle can. Unless you plan on having them powder coated every year.

    Just my opinion. I've already waisted the money on powder coating my bumpers.

    1986 K10 TPI350/NV4500/Gen2 Doubler/D60(ARB)/14FF(Detroit)/4.56 gears
     
  12. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    The powder coating process leaves an 'orange peel' effect. Basically I didn't like the imperfections and I wanted it smooth, just personal preference I guess. It would have looked okay as is and would have looked like a decent paint job. If I were to do it again I would leave it as is, it just wouldn't look quit as shiney.
    tlarsw: It all depends on how well the surface was prepped before it was coated. I had a sample piece done and pounded on it with a hammer - it never chipped off, just conformed to the dent in the metal. Also, I bought some paint from the same company that made the powder that is an exact color match so touch-ups shouldn't be a problem. I already sprayed my passenger side quarter panel (didn't want to cut the welds to take it off) with it and it looks good. Like I said, just an expensive experiment to end my curiousity[​IMG]
     
  13. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    Looks good, keep us up to speed on how it holds up. I would think pretty good, from some of the other powder coated I've seen.

    Did they sand the panels or just dip'em? What final grit was it sprayed over? What about body filler (bondo)?

    I think I might try that with fabed bumper, or cage, or something if it turns out to hold up.

    -Eric

    <font color=blue>Twiz
     
  14. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    I'm not sure what prep work the powder coater did. They picked up the parts from the chemical strippers, coated them and I picked them up. There isn't any bondo on this K5 - powder coating doesn't adhere to it that well and it also stands the chance of cracking since the parts have to be heated to 400 degrees for about 30 mins. I had to buy new doors and a new fender since all of them were damaged beyond repair anyways.
     
  15. tlarsw

    tlarsw 1/2 ton status

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    The shop that did my bumbers does alot of the high end moutain bikes. After the sand blasting, they then do a glass bead to ensure correct surface preparation. They showed me the same thing with a hammer. Just hitting it with a hammer does not compair to grinding it on the rocks. A nick and chip here and there are pretty easy to cover. A corner that is chewed up from trying to make it up the obsticles such as the waterfall at Disney, is not. I'll post some pics when of that damage that was done by the rocks and why I think people should not powder coat rigs that are used/abused offroad. For street, mud, or just trail riding, where you'll never see an absticle simular to the ones that I like to do, powder coating would be fine. When I originally had these done, I didn't think that I'd ever build/use my truck to the level that I do.

    Here is the waterfall at Disney. This kind of rock chews up everything. : )

    <a target="_blank" href=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1462972&amp;a=11000083&amp;p=53481643&amp;Sequence=0>http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1462972&amp;a=11000083&amp;p=53481643&amp;Sequence=0</a>

    I'm sure that some powdercoat applications, such as orange peel effect, may hide the scratches better. I did a 80% gloss black.

    A good can of Krylon will give you what you want: rust protection and coverage.



    1986 K10 TPI350/NV4500/Gen2 Doubler/D60(ARB)/14FF(Detroit)/4.56 gears
     
  16. tlarsw

    tlarsw 1/2 ton status

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    Here is a pic of my rear bumper. This is before I used them in the rocks.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1462972&amp;a=11000083&amp;p=50701118&amp;Sequence=0>http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1462972&amp;a=11000083&amp;p=50701118&amp;Sequence=0</a>



    1986 K10 TPI350/NV4500/Gen2 Doubler/D60(ARB)/14FF(Detroit)/4.56 gears
     
  17. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    Lucky for me I will never be seeing anything like you do at Disney. I wouldn't expect anything to hold up to 5k lb truck scrapping along the rocks!
    I'm not sure if you know this but all powder coats are not the same. They have different compositions such as polyester, epoxy, urethane, etc. and they all have different characteristics like hardness, flexibility, UV protection, chemical resistance, etc. Just an FYI, but again nothing is a fair match between 5k lbs and the rocks [​IMG]
     
  18. tlarsw

    tlarsw 1/2 ton status

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    I had thought at one time about powder coating my truck, but decided not to.

    Your Blazer looks SWEET! If I wasn't going to use mine so hard, I'd do the same thing! I'd also like to know how it holds out.

    1986 K10 TPI350/NV4500/Gen2 Doubler/D60(ARB)/14FF(Detroit)/4.56 gears
     

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