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!!! PICS - ORD Custom Front Leaf Spring Installation !!!

Discussion in 'OffRoad Design' started by Greg72, Mar 2, 2002.

  1. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    OK folks......I finally got around to setting up a new album to show the installation of my new front springs. I believe I am the 1st person to have a set of ORD-Custom Leaf Springs on a 1st Gen Blazer......so I think EVERYONE will see something they've never seen before!!! [​IMG]

    Click on the link below to check it out.....



    -Greg72

    '72 K5 Blazer - 427BB/TH350/NP205/6" Lift/35x12.50's
    <font color=blue>See it here: </font color=blue><a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun38>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun38</a>
     
  2. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    Those look nice!...but I have to ask...how much? I will finish up my rear end modifcations soon and the front is next. I think for me it will be shocks next insted of springs though.
     
  3. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Dan,

    Complete price for Steve to design and build them was $390. That seemed like a good deal to me! /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  4. Sparky87k5

    Sparky87k5 1/2 ton status

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    Nice job on the truck, it keeps getting better. Know the feeling about 427 power. What a rush!/forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  5. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Sparky,

    The motor is starting to get really fun....fixed some bugs in the fuel pump &amp; carb. I just got 12MPG for the first time ever! My previous average was alsways around 7MPG, so I'm glad I got the Q-Jet and my new fuel pump.

    I can only imagine how much MORE fun it would be with the 4.56 gears you've got! /forums/images/icons/smile.gif....

    Mine's got a "Top End" cam in it &amp; 3.73 gears so it's a struggle to get the tires to "chirp" off the line.......BUT once it starts "pulling" on the top end.....it doesn't want to stop!!!!! /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
     
  6. Sparky87k5

    Sparky87k5 1/2 ton status

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    I run the GM marine cam, (500/500 lift 218/228 duration at .050 lift), and it pulls strong from 2000 on up. I have more then enough power to light up the new 315's (35's) I run. Love pulling my trailer up hills and passing other rigs. Mileage with a 600 holley is around 13 empty (very light footed throttle) and 7-8 towing 5000# trailer. Yep, the 4.56's do make it run strong. You running the oval port or rectangle port heads. I chose oval port for torque.
     
  7. UNCLE CRACKER

    UNCLE CRACKER 1/2 ton status

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    how do those springs ride on the street?
     
  8. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    Greg, those springs look really trick. Looking at the pics of the tape measure it looks like everything came out perfect. $390 is a hell of a bargin and alot cheaper then I thought custom springs would be. The new shackel angle looks good and with that soft rate it should ride like a Caddy on the street.
     
  9. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    Look's good Greg. Next time in Milpitas gonna have to stop by and check out your rig.
     
  10. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Looks really nice, couldn't be much better, although I would want just a tad more length, just a personal preference. When you get a chance (and can), let us know how much travel/articulation you get out of it.

    Damn, wish I could have gotten a deal like that. I wonder if I can return my BDS... /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif #%#$, it would have been worth the money just so I wouldn't have to move my upper shackle mount...
     
  11. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Sparky,

    I'm not sure which heads I've got.....they're the stock iron castings....so whatever is more common I guess.

    My cam is a Crower with an advertised duration of 292 deg....(214 @ .050 intake / 224 @ .050 exhaust) and .503" lift (intake) and .529" lift (exhaust)

    I know that a set of "GOOD" heads and a lower duration cam would really wake up this motor, and give me the torque I want.....but that's $$$$$$$$$

    Isn't that always the way it goes.....? /forums/images/icons/frown.gif
     
  12. Boss

    Boss 1/2 ton status Author

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    Man, I'm really impressed with them. I'm patiently awaiting my springs from ORD. Mine cost a little more, but that's probably b/c they're much longer. ~49" range front, and the rear is ~58".
    Boss
     
  13. Sparky87k5

    Sparky87k5 1/2 ton status

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    Your cam specs aren't that far off from mine but it might not have been installed advanced 4 degrees as I did mine. Have found over the years that to install a cam correctly, one should really dial it in with a degree wheel. When I do that, I then advance the cam 4-6 degrees depending on cam specs. Really makes a difference. I run 500 lift and 218/228 and this compares to yours. Also, a lot of 427's had rectangle port heads, great for power above 3500 to 6500 but they suck for torque down low. Oval port heads make far better low end torque for truck use. If you can get me the casting numbers, I'll tell you which ones you have. Still, no such thing as a "bad" BBC, just some better then others.
     
  14. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Sparky,

    Give me a "hint" where to look for those casting #'s and I'll post them for you....

    Thanks!
     
  15. Sparky87k5

    Sparky87k5 1/2 ton status

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    Chevy smallblock and big block cylinder heads have the CASTING NUMBER and the CASTING DATE located in the rocker arm valley, usually between rocker studs. These numbers are found after removing the valve cover on the head. The casting number of the cylinder head follows the same form as those found on blocks. There will be six to eight digits for the casting number. The head casting date will have a letter for the month and numerals for the day of the month and the year of the decade. Some head casting dates will give the decade and year. On head castings, the casting date may be in a different location in the rocker arm valley and is not always right below the casting number. This web site will explain in detail.
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.mortec.com/locatpg2.htm>http://www.mortec.com/locatpg2.htm</a>
     
  16. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    OK.......but since I hafta pull the valve cover off, I may not do it right away......I'm in the middle of a "longer brake line installation drama" right now.... /forums/images/icons/crazy.gif

    I've had too many jobs go easily....now I have to pay the price.
     
  17. morphed86k10

    morphed86k10 1/2 ton status

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    did positioning the axle farther forward have an effect on any steering linkage?
     
  18. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Morphed,

    YEP....The steering knuckle is now 1" closer to the steering box, so the draglink was 1" too long (Why didn't I realize this earlier?/forums/images/icons/smile.gif)

    Lat night I was scratching my head wondering why I was cutting 1" off one of the draglink ends so I could get them to fit in the "sleeve" correctly......I guess it was just the end of a long day.

    From the perspective of steering geometry, it seems like a shorter draglink is going to aggravate "bump steer" even more than usual since wheel travel will pull on that link even MORE.....but I will have to take it for a test drive before I know for sure.
     
  19. shaggyk5

    shaggyk5 1/2 ton status

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    greg, why are you green?
     
  20. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    This is exactly why I'm doing a cross over right now. Just finished the new "under engine" cross member yesterday. I really had no choice. With the axle going 2" forward, the factory drag link just won't work. Also, with the 42s on 8" wide wheels with 4" back spacing, the tire hits the pitman arm just before right lock. Still debating on high steer. I think I'll wait till Steve works out the UAVs hydro assist issues to decide. I may just to a Rock Stomper type tie rod instead...

    You seem pretty tight with Stephan, time to ante-up for the cross over. /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif
     

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