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picture of Tow rig After lift/tires

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by perp, May 28, 2006.

  1. perp

    perp 1/2 ton status

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    Before and after of 2005 Cummins Ram w 6" lift and 37" BFG Muds:D
    1st pick stock
    2nd pic with lift
    3rd pic w/lift and tires

    truck 058.jpg

    truck 065.jpg

    Dodge 001.jpg
     
  2. cbbr

    cbbr 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Looks great.:waytogo:
     
  3. yellowK20

    yellowK20 Well Lubricated Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    That's Awesome :bow: :bow: :bow:
     
  4. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    Pimpin!

    Dodge Cummins are cool:)
     
  5. southernspeed

    southernspeed 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Cool. I so nearly bought the same truck but it's too damn big for my driveway and most of the roads over here so I ended up with a QC Daytona...which I love!
    How did you compensate for the change in tire diameter? I used the Superchips tuner but I didn't think they'd released the one for the Cummins powered trucks yet.
     
  6. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    When I put 35's on my 05 Dodge, I took it to the dealer and they adjusted something called the pinion factor? At least that is what it said on the paperwork. They charged me 1/2 of one hour @$120/hr. So approx. $60.
     
  7. perp

    perp 1/2 ton status

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    I haven't corrected for the tire height yet. it seems to run fine but the speedo is off and so is the MPG/trip Computer. I have to figure out first why it pulls to the right. took it to the dealer and paid for an alignment, they had it for a week trying to figure it out. they said the right wheel needs a little more camber, but as a solid axle they are not independently adjustable. so i asked if the axle "c"s were welded on out of alignment and the service adviser quietly said yes, but that he could do nothing unless I took off the lift and put back the stock tires so that dodge would pay for the new axle housing:mad: .
    I tossed out all the stock stamped arms and sold the tires. Chicken **** dealers, the lift doesn't change the axle or knuckles but i still think i will loose this fight. I have heard that somebody out there makes an offset ball joint for just this sort of thing. anyone ever heard of this? who might make these?

    The pull isn't real bad but at nearly $2500.00 a set for tires (17" rim size muds are $$$) i would like to get it fixed:doah:
     
  8. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    Dude that sucks! Hmmm....I don't have any ideas for you. That suck big time.
     
  9. ARAMP1

    ARAMP1 Aviator Extraordinaire

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    I used to do a lot of alignments back in the day and I've used offset ball joints. IMHO, I'd try and stay away from them and find and fix the real problem. Did the truck pull before you put everything on it? Also, I'd do a quick swap of the front left and right tires to see if it still pulls the same way.

    BTW, did the dealer have some kind of printout of the alignment specs to give you? If so, what is the difference between the left and right camber specs?
     
  10. resurrected_jimmy

    resurrected_jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    I agree that its a bad deal, but you may look into having an axle shop fix the problem or work out a deal with whatever shop did/sold you the lift for some stock parts so you can get it fixed under warrenty. Maybe go find a wrecked one in a yard for suspension parts..... just kinda thinking out loud here
     
  11. perp

    perp 1/2 ton status

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    no print out on specs, The dealer did the left/right swap and still pulled to the right. it wasn't noticeable after i installed the lift (and i drove it like that for months), but right off the bat with the tall tires. i have been told the tall tire could have just accentuated an existing problem due to leverage and tread pattern. first thing I thought of was tires too, do i had them rebalance and checked all the pressures. then the dealer said it wasn't tire related (after swapping sides).

    any one think it could somehow be related to the 2.5" rear spacers. the outer wheels do not center on the hub anymore, i just used 4 conical lugs to center them on the pacer studs and then put on 4 clamp style lugs on the empty studs and tourqed, then replaced the four conicals with the remaining 4 clamp style lugs (factory type). could see this making it bounce about if out of center, but the pull is smooth and constant at any speed
     
  12. perp

    perp 1/2 ton status

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    If i have to pay to cut and reweld the knuckles i will, that would be alot cheaper than just watching a 45K truck reust away in the driveway
     
  13. 1-ton

    1-ton 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    This is just a long shot suggestion, but check to see if your parking brake cable is not over extended (because of the lift), and pulling on the rear brakes.
     
  14. yellowK20

    yellowK20 Well Lubricated Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    that's a good point. but above he said they had found the problem and it was existing from the factory
     
  15. perp

    perp 1/2 ton status

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    I will check that out, you never know but it could help. the dealer said it was camber, but they also took a week to figure it out and i wonder if they only told me that to get me to leave as they could play the 'you modified it' card
     
  16. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    iif the rf is in negative camber, the spec should be slightly positive, to me that would have to be a big error on the factories part(or whoever built the axle).

    Companies make shim plates for Dana 44s and 10 bolts that go on behind the spindle to correct for camber. Maybe you need one of those? At this point, offset ball joints and the shim idea may not be the BEST way to go but cutting and moving Cs on a hunch isn't gonna be a good thing.

    For camber to cause a good pull to the right it would have to be pretty negative. Like I said, that would just be a BIG mistake on the part of a company thats been building axles for years. Caster and Toe will both cause a pull before camber.
     
  17. roadnotca

    roadnotca 3/4 ton status

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    Left to right "Cs" may be within production tolerance for the welded assy, the taller height might be screwing the track. Maybe try axle wedges/"angle shim" to get both sides back into the spec. range?
     
  18. perp

    perp 1/2 ton status

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    Crap guys, i just re read my own posts and realized i had typed camber:doah: when i meant CASTER. boy am i a retard to day. this kinda changes the whole problem/solution. I guess my fingers just type what they want sometimes.
     
  19. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    that makes a ton more sense now. Yeah in that cause I think you may be screwed and have to have it cut and turned. If the left side caster is fine its in the axle and not the suspension design, crappy man.
     
  20. southernspeed

    southernspeed 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    If the dealer took a week to come up with that idea I'd say he's clutching at straws. I like the parking brake theory. I really dislike the sound of your rear outer lug nut set up!
    Have you tried searching or asking questions over on www.dodgetalk.com ?
    I don't think it's a caster issue. But the extra width on your rear track could be affected more by the camber of the road. Maybe find a quiet bit of road and drive on the wrong side and see if it still does the same. But if you have an accident I'll deny all knowledge!
    Could be worth a cautious try though.
     

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