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Pinion seal

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 8_YOUR_H2, Mar 7, 2000.

  1. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

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    I have a leaky pinion seal, I cant get the pinion nut off. No one in my area has the companion flange tool needed to hold the flange still so I can get the nut off (no pun intended!!) Does anyone know how to fix a leaky pinion seal?
     
  2. keith

    keith 1/2 ton status

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    Well all it takes is the right socket. the yoke should not mave nor should the ring/pinion if you have it in gear. Simply remove the nut. But once you do you will need to replace the crush sleeve!! thats what stabilizes the pinion gear. and holds the bearings in place. I had this done last week! My buddy is a rear end guy/ mainly race stuff. Check around your area for some guys that do race they would surely know someone that would help you.
     
  3. 1bad2

    1bad2 Registered Member

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    The crush sleve does not have to be replaced if only changing the pinion seal. Mark the pinion, nut, flange, and count the number of threads before you remove the nut, when you put it back together tighten the nut to the mark you made when removing the nut (per Chiltons repair manual). As for the tool all chevrolet and GMC dealerships should have one but they probably won't let you take it unless you have connections there, you might also check with Tranny shops or anyone who does rearend work.

    Curtis
     
  4. Blaze81

    Blaze81 Registered Member

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    I used a Monkey wrench (the kind that has no teeth[smooth] on the jaws) and a big cheeter pipe on its handle to hold the yolk. Worked great for me with the use of a butt load of elbow grease. Should be able to get the wrench at a plumbing or hardware store.

    Blaze81
     
  5. Depdog

    Depdog 1/2 ton status Author

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    Dont need no darn special took, get a large pipe wrench (monkey wrench) and that works just fine. As for the crush sleeve. If you put on the nut with a 12" ratchet, by hand, no cheater bars, you wont crush it any more. They are pretty tuff and require a pretty good amount of torque to crush.

    Depdog

    <font color=blue>"Lead, Follow, or BECOME the Trail"</font color=blue>
     
  6. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Everbody I know has replaced atleast 1 pinon seal and nobody I know has ever replaced the crush sleave. As long as you carefull and don't overtorq the bolt when re installing it you don't need a crush sleave. It takes about 200ft lb to start to crush that booger. My 79 had the pinion seal replaced 2.5 year ago and has had 2 years of weekend wheeling done and 2 trips to Florida not even a hint of trouble out of the diffs and they already have over 300k on them.
    As for removing the bolt. Last one I did was on tight. Had to get my wife to help. I had a 24 inch breaker bar on it my feet on the frame and no go...had the wife take a hammer and give the Pinion a couple of good smacks to make it pop loose. If it's on the front axle just lock the hubs and set the parking brake. The special tool that you are talking about that bolts to the flange is only needed if you working on a loose axle on a bench.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
     
  7. Rayven90

    Rayven90 Registered Member

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    Actually, I found a leaky pinion and while inspecting I found that Someone had alredy done this and the crush sleeve hadn't been replaced. It caused a funny vibration for about a $7.00 part.


    Rayven
     

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