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Pitman Arm and High Steer interference.....???

Discussion in 'OffRoad Design' started by Greg72, Nov 7, 2003.

  1. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Stephen,

    I noticed a post in "The Garage" about interferences between the pitman arm (the one included in the ORD crossover kit...a F*RD version, methinks?) and the tierod?

    I didn't really think much of it because (of course) everything has lots of clearance sitting in my driveway. But I know realize that the paint is being rubbed off the tie rod just behind the pitman arm.

    So I'm wondering if a flatter arm would be the solution, or if this is something you've already solved.....or are currently investigating???

    It doesn't appear to be causing any serious issues (yet) but I thought I'd ask for your assessment of the situation, and possible ideas for a fix?
     
  2. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    Greg
    Is your axle moved forward at all?
     
  3. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    1"

    .....apparently that's 1" too much! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  4. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    OK, mine is in the stock location and doesn't rub but it's damn close. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  5. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    Hmm guess I won't move my axle forward an inch like I was thinking.
     
  6. jac6695

    jac6695 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    OK, mine is in the stock location and doesn't rub but it's damn close. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Same here. No rub.
     
  7. yunit

    yunit 1/2 ton status

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    I was looking at the stock 2wd pitman arm and it would be perfect for this situation, since it is about 2" shorter than the after market ford/jeep arm, but it has a pressed in end. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif I was also looking at rotating the steering box down, but it would be too much fab work for the what you get out of it.
     
  8. therobzilla

    therobzilla 1/2 ton status

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    Greg,

    Welcome to the world of crossover/highsteer for 1st gens.

    Everything is diffrent, the frame bend and the mounting is totally diffrent than the second gen. I went down this road on mine, and I still don't have it all worked out correctly.

    I could not use the ford pitman arm it bound against the tie rod.

    I still have not found a decent solution and still get lock to lock.

    Then the issue of the drag link hitting the harmonic balancer comes into play.

    It's been a real pain on my blazer and I still have a 44.

    Let me know what your solution was, I'm curious...

    Rob
     
  9. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I'm beginning to wonder if Stephen could "fix" this "problem" by making some new arms. Such new arms would have the tie-rod behind the differential, up on top of the springs. Just make the new arms longer where the drag link still hooks up in front and the tie-rod will hook up on the rearward part of the axle.

    I've seen these arms on the POR site all over and would rather see ORD make them as they look better and most importantly have the taper machined in them for the tie-rod angle. Most arms I've seen on POR were just flat stock cut and machined here and there, nothing fancy. One set of arms that pops up in mind were made by Ant over on POR. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  10. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    Bluetorch makes that style of arm where it mounts behind the axle. I considered them but ORD's arms just seem to be the top quality so I just broke down and went with them.
     
  11. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Ok, I found the pic of BlueTorch's arms.

    [​IMG]

    I would still like to see ORD make their own arms as I feel the ORD arms have more beef to them because there seems to be more material out where the rod ends go into the holes. The BT arms look too "narrow" and could mean bending or warping with severe off roading. Just my opinion, but would like to see the ORD arms fabbed like the BT arms. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  12. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    thats why I went with the ORD Arms, they just seem beefy compared to everyone elses stuff.
     
  13. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    We've looked at running the tierod behind and the big concern is oil pan and spring clearance. We've always tried to build things that will work as simply as possible right out of the box and with the tie rod behind, you have to consider a lot of factors. If we did the tie rod behind setup, it would be as a "use at your own risk" item. The standard High Steer is that way to a certain extent but not as bad, that's one of the reasons we held off building our kit for a while.

    As to the main question here, Greg, I'd look at sanding a little bit of a flat on the end of the pitman arm. We could also go to 1 1/8" tube for the tie rod and that would gain you a little more clearance there too. I don't like the idea of going to a flatter pitman arm since it would put more angle on the draglink which would cause more bumpsteer. You could also look at fudging the box forward on the frame a little to get some more room but that's pretty involved for what you need. The pitman arm grinding and the smaller tie rod should be all you need.
     
  14. Blazinaire

    Blazinaire 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    We've looked at running the tierod behind and the big concern is oil pan and spring clearance...

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I had to run 1'' spacers under my arms to allow enough clearance for my run of the mill 4 leaf pack tuff countries (just wait untill the deavers that are more than twice as thick go in /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif.) I will tell everyone first hand that oil pan clearance is a serious issue when putting the tie rod to the rear... I have almost 10'' of clearance betwwen my tie rod and oil pan at static height but as the suspension compresses and the axle moves toward the rear I somehow ended up with -1/4'' (yes kids that means that there is now a dent in the pan) and I about had a heart attack the first time I noticed that... Just a butthair further and the crank would have rubbed its way through the pan and POOF! no more engine /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif
     
  15. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    I guess that's my point.
    I can sympathize with the dent in the pan, my track bar got bent in the big roll and now I have a pretty big crease in my pan. And the crank has been friendly with it a coupe times but I've been able to pull it away by welding a chain link on and pulling on it, or tapping the sides with a hammer to bring the dent away from the crank.
     

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