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please help, carrier bearing question

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by supersize75, Jan 17, 2003.

  1. supersize75

    supersize75 1/2 ton status

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    Ok I nead a carrier bearing for my 14 bolt ff, it has a factory posi and 4.56 gears.

    I have heard....

    comes in an install kit or by it's self

    need a press to put it in...have access to one

    can be had for 50.00 at napa

    I really need a discription on a how to replace this and I need to get this done real soon. I would even cosider buying an open carrier from someone on here.

    sorry to ask all the the questions but I am stuck in a rut and its depressing me a little because this has every thing on hold.

    all together now......
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  2. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    A carrier bearing is the center bearing on a 3 piece drive shaft like some long wheel base 2wd pickups use. You have one shaft that comes from the back of the trans the other end of that shaft has a carrier bearing then a ujoint yoke. Then you have the second half of the driveshaft with a slip joint in its center. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif If thats what you're talking about you take the yoke off and press the carrier bearing off the shaft and press another one on. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. supersize75

    supersize75 1/2 ton status

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    so its justed pressed on the yoke end? need a pic on this one /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  4. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    Nope you two are talking about different carrier bearings. 70K5 is talking about a driveshaft carrier bearing, and SuperSize is talking about a differential carrier bearing. Two different things.
     
  5. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    He is talking about the bearing that go on either side of the carrier in an axle, not the one in the three piece driveshafts.
    Yes, the carrier bearings comes in the big install kit - I paid $130 for mine. But it sounds like you don't need that.
    Have you called Randy's Ring and Pinion and asked how much for just one carrier bearing? $50 sounds steep to me.
    If you buy a carrier, I'd still recommend putting two new ones on and not reusing the old ones.
    -- Mike
     
  6. Blazer1970

    Blazer1970 1/2 ton status

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    If you have a Detroit Ball Bearing or equivalent store near you, they will sell you the bearing and race. All you need is the numbers off the bearing and race you have. You can install the bearing with a hammer and brass drift if you have to. The hard part is getting the old one off. This is next to impossible without the right kind of puller.
     
  7. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

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    You can buy the carrier bearing by its self or in the kit. I think for the bearing and race it was like $20-$30 at advanced auto parts. You need to use a bearing separator and a press to pull the old one off, I had a machine shop take the old one off and sandblast the carrier for me. Then installation is very simple just press the new bearing on, all the way down so it bottoms out on the carrier.
     
  8. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    This is next to impossible without the right kind of puller.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    No puller needed. Take a pair of diagonal cutters, cut the cage and remove it along with the tapered roller bearings. Use a die grinder with cutoff wheel, and cut through 95 percent of the remaining bearing on an angle. Whack it with a chisel and hammer and your done (ONLY if you are getting new bearings). When done correctly it is much quicker and you don't have to use a bearing seperator and/or press and I think you are less likely to break/bend/distort the housing.
     
  9. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    First, we need to know why you need to change only 1 bearing. Did you lose one or drop and damage only 1? Or did the bearing fail while driving? If it's the latter, then you should go ahead and replace all the bearings in the differential. When a bearing fails, it spews tiny particles of hardened steel throughout the differential. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif These tiny bits then get into all the other bearings and start breaking down the hardened surfaces on the rollers and races of those bearings as well. Once this has happened, it's time to thoroughly clean the housing and replace all of the bearings in the differential. Otherwise you're going to have to go back into it soon and replace them anyway. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
     
  10. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    First, we need to know why you need to change only 1 bearing. Did you lose one or drop and damage only 1? Or did the bearing fail while driving? If it's the latter, then you should go ahead and replace all the bearings in the differential. When a bearing fails, it spews tiny particles of hardened steel throughout the differential. These tiny bits then get into all the other bearings and start breaking down the hardened surfaces on the rollers and races of those bearings as well. Once this has happened, it's time to thoroughly clean the housing and replace all of the bearings in the differential. Otherwise you're going to have to go back into it soon and replace them anyway.


    [/ QUOTE ]
    Yep and the other reason is because the bearings will be different thickness since one is worn and one is new. That will cause some problems as well. You want to buy bearings that come out of the same carton for both sides. those should be very close to the same dimensions.
    I have never set up a 14 so I am running on the asumption it sets up the same as a 10 and a 12 with the shims being on the outside. If this is so then just take the carrier to a machine shop and have them install the new bearings. As long as you keep the shims on the side they came out of you should be fine. It may be very tight going back in but if you can pound it mack in with a rubber mallet or a dead blown then it's fine. It's supose to be tight. A pro shop has a deal called a case spreader that aids in dropping it in because it is tight like that.
    NAPA with a machine shop should be able to set you up. Bearings have number on them and they can crossrefference that number and get you the current equivelent.
     
  11. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    As Grim stated, you could take it to a local shop to have them remove the old bearings and press on the new ones (no "internal" shims), but unlike the 10 and 12 bolt there are no carrier bearing shims, instead the 14FF uses adjuster wheels (which makes setting backlash and preload much easier). Due to it's design and the fact that one bearing already failed, you would probably be better off replacing all the bearings. The 14FF is probably the easiest axle to work on (even easier than the Fraud 9" due to the "external" pinion housing shims to adjust pinion depth on the 14FF). Most shops will press the old carrier bearings off, press the "middle" pinion bearing off, and press on the new ones, for a small fee. The others you can do with a brass punch (to remove), and a race/seal driver (to install).
    The hardest part is getting the crush sleeve to crush without overtightening it.

    If you talk to someone like Drivetrain Direct or Randy's you can order a complete install set with all the bearings, shims, crush sleeve, pinion seal, diff gasket, gear marking compound, DIRECTIONS for PROPER setup, etc plus they will give you technical support over the phone if you buy it from the, and it will save you $$ over buying individually. You will need a dial indicator (for backlash), and a inch pound torque wrench (able to do 10-30 in/lbs range). Just a suggestion though.
     
  12. supersize75

    supersize75 1/2 ton status

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    well after reading every one's post many time over I believe the best move I can make is to replace all of the bearings, this isn't what I want to do do to the fact that I could screw it up. I do agree with </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    . When a bearing fails, it spews tiny particles of hardened steel throughout the differential. These tiny bits then get into all the other bearings and start breaking down the hardened surfaces on the rollers and races of those bearings as well.

    [/ QUOTE ] because there is a magnet mounted in the bottem of the diff that has particles on it. The guy drove around and it made a noise and he is a friend and everything looks ok/ no wear so I find this to be true.


    ALSO.....

    if any one from az would be willing to help I would be glad to make it worth there while.

    let me know, also any pics?
    /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     

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