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Please help me!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Paxx, Jun 13, 2003.

  1. Paxx

    Paxx 1/2 ton status

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    well to those of you who run automatics what have you done to lower your crawl ratio? I think I have found the starting k5 for my project but before I start I would like your opinions. The k5 I found has this - 350/350/205/3.83/35's.
    I want to change the 350 to a 6.5LTD when I sell my car, and I want to keep the 205 (I want twin stick ).
    I'm trying to get a crawl ratio of 50:1 or better.

    Now I'm planning on lifting 4", going 1 ton, 39.5 tsl's.
    I was thinking to go with 4.56's but that was when I was thinking standard. Should I go with a deeper gear?

    What have you done or would you do to give yourselves a better crawl ratio? It will not see much highway. I need a top speed of around 100km/hr~65mph so I can make ocassional wheeling trips (BB03 /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif)

    So if you could post the mods you have made to yours or are planning on making along with a rough price estimate I would be very grateful.
    I need options!

    Please help me solve my crawling problem /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
    Thnx Max
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Run a 465 with 4.56's, the 39.5's and call it good. I run that exact combo with my 6.2 and it does just fine on the highway at 65 and crawls like nobody's business! 58:1 crawl with the diesel low end/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Rene
     
  3. Don

    Don 1/2 ton status

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    www.ringandpinion.com has calculator's which will help You with gear selection, size of tire's, gear ratio, is taken in and calculated. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  4. Paxx

    Paxx 1/2 ton status

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    I would like to use the 465 and I do have one in my 6.2 pickup parts truck but I'm by no means a mechanic and changing the blazer over from auto to standard will probably be a little out of my league. That's why I'm looking for ways to better the crawl ratio with the auto.

    I would just buy a standard k5 but the deal on this one is just to good to pass up. a marine 350 w/headers and a cam, new axles front and rear, rust free /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif, 35's, pwr windows/doors, tranny temp guage/tach added, spare front axle all for 1600 bucks /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif There was probably a bit more that I might have left out to.

    With a complete donor vehicles transmission what would it cost for a mechanic to do the swap? I could maybe have it done at the same time as the engine swap if it doesn't cost too much.
    The costs are already starting to add up and if I could use a doubler or something like that to lower my ratio for the same cost as the tranny swap I would probably do that instead.

    Please keep the ideas coming and if you know prices please share em /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  5. Silver84k5

    Silver84k5 1/2 ton status

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    just go with 5;13's my speedometer doesnt work right but i think i can go about 55-65 without winding out too bad,

    if you have the money then get a doubler, you cant really go wrong with one, Plenty of beef, and you get a wide range of gears too choose from.
     
  6. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    If you have a donor truck with a 465 it is probably easier than the motor swap IMHO. Ask the mechanic doing the motor swap for an estimate.

    Honestly if you're paying to have the work done a doubler would definitely set you back way more money.

    The parts you'll need are:

    465 and 205 combo
    pedal hanger and pedals from donor truck
    all clutch linkage or hydro clutch parts.
    Bellhousing
    Flywheel
    clutch disc and pressure plate


    What you'll need to do to make the swap:

    Remove flex plate from the back of the 6.5
    Add either a pilot bushing or bearing (simple 10 minute job)
    Bolt up flywheel, then clutch disc and pressure plate (about an hour if you're methodical)

    Once the motor is in you'll have to get the tranny up behind it and wiggle and curse until the input shaft finds it's way through the clutch disc. Then bolt up the bellhousing (this step can take as little as an hour or almost 4 hours...depends on luck and what tools you have)

    Next, bolt up T-case to the back of the tranny and start working on the linkage.

    Hydro is cool if you got it, but mechanical can work well too.

    It's not that hard a swap, any shade tree do-it-yourselfer could accomplish it in an easy weekend.

    Rene
     
  7. Paxx

    Paxx 1/2 ton status

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    What is your crawl ratio? Do you have a need for more or is it good? What kind of trails do you run? Wanna play 20 questions? /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
     
  8. Paxx

    Paxx 1/2 ton status

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    Thnx for the info Rene. I will go and talk to the mechanic about the cost for the swap. How does the doubler set-up go together? Would that be a job that could be tackled by someone who is trying to learn? I would like to be the one who knows more about my truck than anyone but I have to take baby steps to get there. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
     
  9. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I'd consider doing a tranny swap well before a doubler conversion if you're kinda new to wrenching.

    The doubler requires a NP 203 range box, the ORD shaft installed, then the doubler mount plate and then the second Transfer case. Add in custom cross members and stuff and it's nothing I'd attempt unless you were somewhat proficient or had a friend that could help you out (and knew more than you did...)

    The tranny swap is pretty easy. It sounds worse than it really is...if you can fog a mirror and had basic tools you could do it too. The trickiest part is good support under the tranny, but renting a proper tranny jack would take care of that for you.

    Rene
     
  10. Paxx

    Paxx 1/2 ton status

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    thnx again rene /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     

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