Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Please Help new Member

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by xlr857, Nov 29, 2004.

  1. xlr857

    xlr857 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2002
    Posts:
    7
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Phx,AZ
    Hello all, I got bit by the Offroad bug this weekend going on a trail run with my buddy's truck. I'm looking for an older Blazer, Ive been reading the boards here and they are great. I have a few questions is there a better year than others and what about having 1/2 vs. 3/4 Blazer. Ive also read about the steering box problems. Im going looking at a few local Blazers today. What are some key areas to look at. Any help would greatly be appreciated. My budget is around $3000.00
     
  2. 70jimmy

    70jimmy 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2000
    Posts:
    5,953
    Likes Received:
    248
    Location:
    Released from Pueblo, told I belong in Southpark
    Welcome aboard the board. A better year than others is personal preference. There are a few more and cheaper mods for the 73 and up blazers and more creature comforts when you get newer than that.

    1/2 vs. 3/4 blazers. The 3/4 blazers usually come with beefier azles so no need to upgrade or not so urgent to upgrade. Then again you may be able to get a better deal on a 1/2 ton and upgrade to what you really want later.

    Steering box problems are easily remedied with Off Road Design Brace. Look for a blazer that does not already have frame cracks. Personally I like to look at a stock truck and upgrade it myself but you can save some good money by finding one that has been upgraded so you don't have to pay for every modification. Most of the time it is difficult to recoup the cost of the modifications when you sell a truck.

    Key areas to look at depends a little on year. RUST!!!! Pull up carpet and look at floorboards, seatbelt anchors, rocker panels, rear of tub near tailgate and behind seats near rise in floor. 73 and newer tend to rust above rear wheels, behind front wheels, lower rear of doors etc. Look at windshield frame area and top. I like to pop the top off and look there for problems.

    Figure out what engine, tranny, transfer case combo you want and look for that. Even if it needs a rebuild you will have all the linkages and hook ups there already.

    fill out your profile so we know where you are located and you might get some help from other members on locating good blazers in the area. Good luck and Happy hunting! /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Remember the first step is recognizing the addiction. The second is funding it!! /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grind.gif /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif
     
  3. xlr857

    xlr857 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2002
    Posts:
    7
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Phx,AZ
    Thnaks for the info Im in Phoenix, AZ. Rust usually isnt a big deal out here but you never no. Ill definatly take a look. The trucks Im going to look at some have 350 and 1 has 454. Not sure which transfer case. If i read the boards right the NP205 is the one to look for. Ive found 3 or 4 with a lift and tires for around $2500. Is the only way to tell a 1/2 from 3/4 is by the axles.
     
  4. 70jimmy

    70jimmy 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2000
    Posts:
    5,953
    Likes Received:
    248
    Location:
    Released from Pueblo, told I belong in Southpark
    engine is just preference. Big block more power, Torque, and money. Small block built cheaper, less weight, if built right can make good power.

    Yeah NP 205 is best I think, Gear driven, very tough but heavy.

    Look in the glove box for a sticker if it is still the right one for the truck it should tell you. The vin # can be broken down to tell you also. LMC catalogs have a break down of vin in the front of the book and a lot of the guys on here can break them down also.

    Several guys on here from Phoenix that know thier stuff. Just ask. Check the Rocky mountain forum or other posts for location of members.
     
  5. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2001
    Posts:
    16,217
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Mesa , Arizona USA
    Your in luck , we have many Blazers in town , I am sure you will find a clean one in your price range . Start with the classifieds here and also the Autotrader . If I see one I'll send you the info /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  6. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2001
    Posts:
    16,217
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Mesa , Arizona USA
    Hers one already lifted with a 454 , needs bigger tires [​IMG]
    2800.00 bucks , no need for a lift or engine swap , and no rust to boot !

    1985 CHEVROLET BLAZER, 4x4, rims, tires, 6" lift, 33", clean int, billet grille, alarm, 454 eng, much more, extras, $2800 obo, 623-594-4921 or 480-228-4503,
     
  7. Rolled

    Rolled 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2002
    Posts:
    683
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Here is Phoenix, there are many rust free rigs for under 3k. If it were me, I would just buy a rolling K5 and piece together the rest with the parts yo like.

    You could put 3/4 ton gear under the rig for less than $400, springs for about $200, set of 35's for $150 (or less), 465/205 for $250 (or less), complete engine for $220, drive lines for $100...

    Those are just prices from the local junk yards that ALWAYS have this stuff on hand.

    Buy a shell for $300 (I know a guy that sells his trucks for this after he parts them out) and drop a couple grand on it and have a decent trail rig...

    BTW, welcome aboard /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  8. xlr857

    xlr857 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2002
    Posts:
    7
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Phx,AZ
    Thanks for the feedback I actually called on that one in the pic. But they are hard to get ahold of. Thats actually the one I had my eye on to go look at. Where can you get a set of 35's at for $150. or was that per tire. Theres not to many in this weeks trader or paper. The ones I found and called on needed some work to make reliable trail rig.
     
  9. Rolled

    Rolled 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2002
    Posts:
    683
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Anchorage, Alaska
    [ QUOTE ]
    Where can you get a set of 35's at for $150. or was that per tire.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I lost the business card so I don't know the name but I can tell you where they are.

    35 ave and Broadway. North East cornor. There is a car lot directly on the cornor but the tire/wheel shop is next to it or maybe one more building down. It says something like "Used Tires and Wheels".


    I purchased two BFG A/T's (35x12.5x15) for $35 each. That included mounting and balancing. These tires were in excellent condition. They had several others, as well.

    There are junk yards that sell them for $15 each. I went to one that had 3 good 35 AT's and 4 *decent* 35 MT's all for $15 each. They even came with wheels lol.

    Tires can be cheap if you just keep an eye out for them. Pjoenix is full of cheap truck parts /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif
     
  10. hawkeye649

    hawkeye649 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2004
    Posts:
    848
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    New Hamp-shi-ah
    I wish. Found four bf goodwrich at t/a 31's at the local junk yard for only $200.00
     

Share This Page