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Point ignitions. Need help.

Discussion in 'The Lounge' started by Emmettology 101, Oct 5, 2005.

  1. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    Posted this here rather than the Garage since it was pertaining to a car. And didn't post it in other rides since not many venture that way.......


    We're trying to get a 69 Pontiac running and I suck with old style ignitions. Wondered if someone could shed some light on this topic for us?

    The car had all the stock components on it and ran fine. We removed all the stock stuff in favor of an MSD set-up including a 6A box, Disty and coil. My bro decided to sell the MSD set-up and threw the old parts back on the car. Now we cant get it running and he doesn't remember how the wires went..

    So we have the disty in the correct spot. Coil is mounted... There is a wire coming out of the bottom of the disty and a wire coming from the factory harness under the coil. The wire under the coil is only putting out about 3-4 volts on my bro multi-meter.

    It's been so long since I messed with a set-up like this, I dont remember what needs to be run to the coil + and - and where the disty wire goes... :doah:

    Anyone?
     
  2. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    BTW, the points were never touched when the disty was removed from the car. And we haven't touched them since.
     
  3. kgblazerfive

    kgblazerfive keymaster Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Plus gets power minus goes to dist, but not sure somewhat of an educated guess
     
  4. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    You do know you can drop a HEI dist in ?? I hate dealing with points. Just convert it over to a HEI and be done with it.
     
  5. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    KGBlazer5 - I'll try that, thanks!

    Z3PR - :) If he were keeping it, I'd suggest it. But he is talking about selling it.
     
  6. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Salvage yard HEI dist shouldn't cost much.
     
  7. JK5

    JK5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    The wire coming off the disty is a ground wire..it goes to the negative side of the coil.

    3-4 volts is a little low...I'd expect 12-13 that should be connected to positive side of the coil. Check voltage after you hook-up the ground wire.

    Remember the negative is what produces the spark as the points open and close.

    I think that's right...it's been 20 years sense I've played with points. ;)
     
  8. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    Sweet thanks! I'll try that! :thumb:
     
  9. JK5

    JK5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Let me correct myself. :doah:

    The coil produces the spark...the points complete the ground curcuit to the coil.
     
  10. kick

    kick 1/2 ton status

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    have you checked the point gap ?
     
  11. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    not on a GM setup, should be about 9V after the resistor. 12-13 into the resistor is good, but you want around 9 out of it, or you'll end up frying your dist.

    BTW, z3pr, have you tried to find any old Pontiac parts lately? they're a b!tch, especially since the last Pontiac engine was cast 25 years ago.
     
  12. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Last time was about 5 years ago. U-Pull It (salvage yard) in Omaha always has everything I've ever needed. I guess I just figured most citys would have salvage yards that you could find a HEI that work in a Pontiac.
     
  13. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    points is good..

    I like points!--no computer to F%^* up!..and you can file them and drive it home again..later HEI's will drop right in,though I agree finding ANY Pontiac V8 now is like looking for hen's teeth..but you might still find a 301 or a 265 V8 in a boneyard..same distributor--and points can cost up to 25 bucks new now that they are considered "antique" :eek1: --an junkyard HEI wont cost much more most likely--IF you can find one!.. :doah:

    The "hot" 12v wire goes to + on the coil and the wire from the distributor to the points goes the the - terminal on the coil as already stated...the points gap is .019 -- or if you have a dwellmeter its 28-30 degrees of dwell at idle..a rough way to set points on a GM with the "window" in the cap is to set them with a feeler gauge to .019,then trun the allen wrench adjustment screw on the points in until it just starts to misfirethen back it out 1/2 a turn..check with a dwellmeter later if possible..I set my GM's that way for years,and the dwell was right on spec nearly every time I checked them with the dwellmeter..

    Some GM's had a yellow wire on the coil + terminal that goes to the "other" small post(IGN) on the starter solenoid--that wire shoots a full 12V to the coil only while cranking--then after the key is in the "run" position,it goes thru the wire thats a resistance wire or goes thru a ballast resistor to prevent the points from arcing too much and burning prematurely..

    I miss my 69 GTO!--but I doubt I'd be driving it much if I still had it today..enough gas to drive it 10 miles would cost 10 bucks now!.. :doah: :( ..I loved the endless 2nd gear burnouts though... :D
     
  14. JK5

    JK5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Good info...

    One of the guys I work with drove his 70 Lemans in today..

    We did some testing...
    While the ignition was off...we got 5.83 volts to the coil...the points may have been closed....with the car running we got 10.03 volts.

    Sorry if I misinformed you about the voltage Mike...I thought it was the early GM's like 55-63' (not sure) models that had a firewall resistor...that knocked the voltage down to 9 volts. I thought the newer coils had an internal resistor to elimate that firewall resistor. Obviously there may be a hiden resistor in the curcuit. :thinking:
     
  15. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    No problem Jerry!

    And thanks to all for the info. Will try the wiring set-up just as soon as I feel better. Darn head colds. :(
     

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