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polishing aluminum

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Nonesuch, Dec 30, 2001.

  1. Nonesuch

    Nonesuch 1/2 ton status

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    I am installing a TPI system on my blazer and have decided to polish the runners and plenum and maybe even the intake if i have enough patience.

    I was wondering what tools I should start collecting to make the task as easy as possible and any tips you may have for doing small areas and crevices?
    Justin

    Austin, Texas K5'er
     
  2. Cavalry

    Cavalry 1/2 ton status

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    POR makes a product for cleaning/protecting Al Never used it but I heard it is great. Just polishing dosent do much. I have a 63 vette mechanical fuel injection. Polished it all upwith Mothers compound put it in a plastic bag to store it. Pulled it out a year later and it was all Al fuzz again. You need to seal it somehow. I believe summit sells the kit of die grinder bits to smooth the sand casting enough to hand polish

    DRIVE IT LIKE ITS YOUR BOSSES!!!
    Luke
    84 K5
     
  3. Slayer

    Slayer 1/2 ton status

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    Never Dull is <font color=red>THE trick set-up</font color=red> for polishing aluminum.

    It comes in a small blue can, and looks like steel wool. It's a very labor intensive (lots of elbow grease) process. I've used this on motorcycles (with lots of exposed aluminum parts) and it's a common trick in the show bike arena.

    When you're done, you can spray it with a clear coat paint, which will last for about 2 years, depending on the heat.

    Take the parts into the livingroom, and polish them while you're watching the boob tube. You can also ask at a local body and paint shop if they'll clear coat it for you cheap. Plus they might give you some 1 year guarantee on peeling.



    <font color=blue>I don't know everything, I just think I do.............</font color=blue>[​IMG]
     
  4. 95 Silverado

    95 Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    aluminum intakes are tough to keep looking good, I sent mine to Jet-Hot and had them coat it with the same coating they use on the headers, it looks great, and you don't have to do anything to it. it cost about $100, but that was a couple years ago. If you really want to polish it, ask around at some big truck stops, those big shiny rigs require a lot of polishing on the tanks and wheels, there are usually people at major truck stops that specialize in detailing/polishing trucks, they could probably give you some tips.

    '95 Chevy Silverado 1500
    5.7 V8-NV4500- 3.73 rears
    See My Toys: <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/wdb172454>http://community.webshots.com/user/wdb172454</a>
     
  5. chevyracing

    chevyracing 1/2 ton status

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    Polishing aluminum is time consuming the first time if you do it right. If it is a porous surface the first thing you need to do is invest in a dremmel tool and some sanding drums (fine and medium) and smooth the surface out. Make sure not to put too much effort into one spot because you can thin the aluminum out too much.

    I make my own polish that will embarrass never dull, quator, and the rest of the over priced hard labor junk they sell for polish out there. Here is the ingredient list and instructions on how to make some real good polish that lasts for a very long time.

    first polish list: (ingredients)

    1 bar (large) of <font color=green>green</font color=green> jewlers rouge.
    1 gallon low odor mineral spirits (walmart has it for $1.99)
    1 one liter pop bottle with lid (large opening the best)
    1 bottle of liquid carnuba wax.

    (tools)
    a couple pieces of news paper
    sharp pocket knife
    maybe a funnel

    (directions)
    (1) take the bar of jewelers rouge and your pocket knife and shave about a third of it to powder with your knife onto the spread out news paper. (the jewelers rouge should have been about 8" long to start with) The finer you get it (the shavings) the better. when you get a pretty good pile put that inside of the pop bottle so the bottle is about 1/3 the way full with the powder.

    (2) next take the liquid carnuba wax and put about an inch of it in the pop bottle. This preserves the shine.

    (3) next fill the bottle to where it starts to neck down with the low odor mineral spirits. Shake the mix good and set it by a heater or out in the sun for a couple of hours. when it get warm shake it good. It should be a liquidy paste by now.

    APPLICATION

    always use a terry cloth rag to put the polish on and do not get it wet (with water). Rub the polish in circles on the item like you would any other polish till it turns black. Let it dry all the way, usually doesn't take too long. Next remove the polish using a soft cotton rag, nothing else..... it will shine, but if you want it done right do it over again. You need to polish until there is not any more black stuff coming off.

    GOOD TRICK

    when you are satisfied you have all of the black stuff removed and no more will come off wipe the item down with a soft cotton cloth. Next get some flower and sprinkle the flower onto the aluminum. Get a clean cotton cloth and buff it out real good. The flower will clean any remaining polish and tarnish out of the pors and any scratches that may be in the project.

    Jewelers rouge comes in three different grits:

    red is course
    green is medium
    white is fine

    I have a batch of the white polish that I made up just like the green. That works good for fine finishing like on my Harley aluminum and stainless steel. The green is good all around for aluminum, brass, bronze, etc. The carnuba wax that is in it helps preserve the shine for quite some time. You may want to touch it up every once in a while by using a light coat of the polish every now and then.

    The white will put the best shine on items. You can use it after the green to make it like a mirror.

    The jewelers rouge is available at most truck stops. It comes in a bar about 8 inches long and is fairly cheap.

    Give this a try and you will not be dissatisfied, believe me, this stuff is awsome.

    The other polishes with impregnated cotton (quator, never dull) are basically cotton, lighter fluid, and a low concentrate of white jewelers rouge. There is not any wax to preserve the shine and when wet is highly flamable.

    This polish does not take long to make and a bottle will last a long time. When I drove a truck I used to make it up and take about a dozen bottles with me and sell it for $15.00 a bottle to drivers. They loved the stuff. One bottle lasted me for about 8 months or so and I had aluminum wheels on my tractor and trailer, full aluminum fenders above the drive tires, 2 160 gallon aluminum fuel tanks, aluminum air tanks and some other goodies and it was always like a mirror.

    John

    Like to go sloppin' 'round in da mud in a rapid fashion....=)

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun31?&page=1>BLAZER PICS</a>
     
  6. Nonesuch

    Nonesuch 1/2 ton status

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    thanks for the tips. The intake will be very difficult so i will probably hold off on that. I have already used a coarse drum wheel to sand off the porus cast look in my project. Its looking pretty good right now. I found an article that says to use 80, 120, 240, 320, 400, 600, 800, and finally wetsand with 1500 for a mirrior shine.


    Thanks for that polish recipe. I will have to give that a try .

    Austin, Texas K5'er
     

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