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Poll - To Hack or Not to Hack - I need input from EVERYBODY!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Mudzer, Oct 1, 2003.

  1. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    I have two options with my K5 in its current state. I would like to "Boatside" the truck and possibly bob the rear. Heres my delima. I have a perfect, rust free M1009 which I could use for this project, or just hack up my current Tub to my liking. Heres the pros and cons I have came up with:

    Using my current Tub

    Pro's:

    Already on the frame. Has Cage installed. I can bash it without worry. Has Title/License/Insurance. Has Bedliner up front. Already in operation - no need to rewire, rebuild cage, and re-bedline the tub.

    Cons: Tub creaks and cracks, floor moves when flexed up, bedsides are a floppin', rear of bedsides need braced. Rear section of bed floor has rustholes - needs replaced or modified.

    Using "new" M1009 Tub

    Pro's:

    Rust free and ready for the sawzall! /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif Bedsides and floor dont need replacing (yet!). Straight dent free body. Good frame ready for bracing and plating. Cheap initial cost from Gov Liquidation.

    Con's:

    No title - would take some legwork to re-title it using my title and making salvage/builder title. Rust/Dent free body - I just hate to cut it up! Rust/Dent free body - I just hate to cut it up! And, Rust/Dent free body - I just hate to cut it up!


    Here are the options I think I might have with either tub.

    Using my current Tub

    I could "Boatside" the rig and build the rocker skids into the body. This would allow me to sell my new rocker skids not yet installed. I think I could modify my Cage to work with the newly modified tub - all the while, tying the cage into the body mount area better which should stiffen the floor "moving" problem. I have also thought about "Pinching" the rear of the tub. While I do this, I would eliminate any rust holes and brace the bedsides. In doing this, I make my truck a "pickup" style rig with possibly a custom bikini top for the rear passengers. I would also be able to bob the rear of the truck just to the spring hangers and fabricate a shorty tailgate. I would also tie the roll cage into the rear of the truck, stiffening the body some.



    Using "new" M1009 Tub

    Start over.... I would install my cage or a new cage in the new tub. Probably scrap the boatsiding/pinching/bobbing idea (sounds wierd) and go with a fresh new tub to bash on the Missouri trails. With this, I would probably buy a new soft top in spice color and go with the "Camo" look. It would take a good bit of work to get the tub in working order. Meaning, I would have to strip my K5 of all of the wiring. I might take the time to simplify it - getting rid of gauges not needed, A/C and other things not used. Overall, this would probably be a cleaner rig - but would cost a bunch of money to build.


    <FORM METHOD=POST ACTION="http://coloradok5.com/forums/dopoll.php"><INPUT TYPE=HIDDEN NAME="pollname" VALUE="1065026326Mudzer">


    Should I or shouldnt I?

    <input type="radio" name="option" value="1" />Keep current tub and hack away
    <input type="radio" name="option" value="2" />Keep current tub and leave it like it is
    <input type="radio" name="option" value="3" />Rebuild M1009 with new parts but keep body somewhat stock
    <input type="radio" name="option" value="4" />Rebuild M1009 and hack away
    <INPUT TYPE=Submit NAME=Submit VALUE="Submit vote" class="buttons"></form>

    Lets hear what you all have to say. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  2. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    Cut up what you have, it doesn't sound like that nice a tub to start with so hack on it. It won't be as nice when your done as starting all over with a clean plan of what you want but it'll sure get done a heck of a lot faster and easier.

    If you're going to put the work into a new rig, I hate to say this but.....if you're building it for hardcore wheeling, build a tube chassis or HIGHLY modified K5 chassis and hang the skins of your favorite flavor on it. Starting with a clean K5 tub is going backwards a long way for something you want to bash up.

    Why is it a pain to title the new tub? Drill out the VIN rivets and put your VIN on it. No big deal. Done cleanly, you don't even need to explain anything.
     
  3. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    I'd say cut the tub you have now. Boatside it and bob it. The bobbin may get rid of you rear rust problem and when you fab the new rockers and stuff you can add bracing to aid against flexin and creakin.....

    Take the nice tub and sell it or build a DD with it. OR something. Clean tubs bring decent $...
     
  4. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    I agree with Stephen, cut up the junk... That's what I did. I still got/get crap from people for "butchering" a K30/M1008 but it was not pristine when I bought it. The only "good" stuff was the axles, trans, case, and fame. The 2WD civi cab/body had be put on, and it was not exactly what you call "straight". So I never had any hesitation cutting and modifying whatever I took a fancy too.

    Now, if it had been a pristine, dent free M1008, I admit, I could not have done what I have done...

    All that said, if your goal is a nice looking custom that still looks like a K5, the clean tub will probably get you there a lot faster and easier/cheaper. I'm talking about something like Robbie's "Money Pit". Same reason many builders of custom show cars like to start with a clean original (much to the concours minded people's dismay!). But I don't think that's what your after...

    Stop resisting, come on over to the dark side...
     
  5. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    Wasn't there an old Crosby, Stills and Nash song "If you can't hack the one you want, hack the one your with" /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  6. BOWTIE

    BOWTIE 1/2 ton status

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    hack what you have.. my brother (mudaholic) got rid of alot of the rust problems that he had in the rear when he went to hacking his K5..

    besides i don't think you really want to cut up Rust/Dent free body. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
     
  7. OL14BLAZ

    OL14BLAZ 1/2 ton status

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    No need to hack up a good clean M1009. Lot less work and MONEY to hack the one you already wheeling. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  8. Chris Demartini

    Chris Demartini 1/2 ton status

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    <font color="blue">Toss your tub and build a tube "body" around the frame. Put some lexan skins on it and your good to go!! /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  9. Kyle89K5

    Kyle89K5 1/2 ton status

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    Hack the 1009. Call me crazy, but you've got a perfect canvas right there. Take this winter to set up a body jig and hack cut clean mangle to your hearts content. You can also use that same time to work on the title issue (do what Stephen said....... )

    I mean really Neal, how much time is the Blazer REALLY going to spend on the road anyway? Take you a couple of months to get the new body like you want it. Take the frame that came with it and start moving parts over to it with the body off. Set the body on it and then start wiring. This will be a perfect opportunity for you to clean up any wiring issues you might have. You can get all the work done to the new tight body, including a little paint if you want, but still have the Blazer available for the "quick" run. Then take a little more time to move it all to the new stuff.

    Cut the 1009, you know you want to /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  10. BIGJ

    BIGJ 1/2 ton status Author

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    I agree with most everyone else. Hack what you've got. You could probably get a decent price for the clean M1009 tub and buy your tube with that.

    No sense in cutting up pristine sheetmetal if you don't have to.

    BIGJ
     
  11. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    I say hack the clean tub. It's nice to start with something that isn't rusty. Plus you can clean up all the wiring and get everything just right as you go.
     
  12. yellowK20

    yellowK20 Well Lubricated Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Tube Buggy Time /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif don't hack up a good tub /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  13. MEPR

    MEPR 1/2 ton status

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    hack up the current tub. I think that by doing some of this stuff while your at it you can brace the body so its not in such bad shape. Oh and then you could sell the M1009 to a kid who dosnt have a K5 (me) /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  14. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Why is it a pain to title the new tub? Drill out the VIN rivets and put your VIN on it. No big deal. Done cleanly, you don't even need to explain anything.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    damn, i need to find a completely totalled 1970 1-ton chevy truck...buy it... snag the vins off it and part out/junk the rest for scrap... then put the vins on my 85 K5.. no more emissions. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

    j
     
  15. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    The problem is getting rid of the truck with no vin or title when it's over.

    I say definitely hack your current rig and leave that rust free tub alone. If you were from up here you'd understand just how valuable that is.
     
  16. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    there is a recycling center here in the 'couve where you can go and just dump the stuff you have for free. Way I figure, you sell every part you can, keep anything that might possibly be of use to you at some point down the road... and chop the rest of the rigs steel up into heft-able chunks and drop em off at the recycling place. They dont even have peeps there watching what you drop off really, so I doubt it'd be a problem. Just do it over time, bring your cans/bottles and no one would ask any questions.

    j
     
  17. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    Hack the current body, all the cutting and bracing will take care of the rust and extra body flex.

    I did the body swap on mine cause i didn't want to hack a desent body (two dents and paint was flaking, but overall good)

    then my brother buys it from me and were cutting the fenders today after he hit a parking lot pole last christmas and the swampers attacked the fronts.LOL damn kids...... trying to get him to let my pinch the rear /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
     
  18. juanblzer

    juanblzer 1/2 ton status

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    Cut them both up! I hate parking near my wife's nicely painted Honda in a parking lot. Cut em' up and feel free to smash and crush sheet metal until ya retire em'
     
  19. 85m1009

    85m1009 1/2 ton status

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    All I can say is that your post is a novel! Must have been created on company time. As for your question---I think you are asking the wrong people. Shouldn't you be asking someone a little closer to home? One that might put a damper on your budget /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif When you are ready bring it over and I will provide the torch /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  20. 88K5Jimmy

    88K5Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    Practice what you would like to cut on your current body while running it and save the M1009. Then when you figure out how much damage, cutting, molding of your current body then you can fine tune the M1009 body to you specific needs and get it perfect. Then if in the mean time you decide to not cut the M1009, then you can still sell it.
     

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